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Old 03-21-2014, 09:35 AM   #3031
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Sacramento
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'11 KLR650

The only time you have too much fuel, is when your on fire.
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Old 03-21-2014, 01:33 PM   #3032
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Location: St. Chuck, Mizery
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Now back to the ride report . . . Noah thanks for keeping us updated when you can, and enjoy the ride! Been following since close to your start, you are an inspiration to us all, and your storytelling of the ride and experience is top notch, along with your photos.
KTM 1190R, 950S, 500XC-W
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CO Single Track RR

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Old 03-21-2014, 01:58 PM   #3033
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Originally Posted by LethPhaos View Post
on the topic of helmets, theres a new one that I think is quite interesting
I have no experience with Caberg though
Its basically a Caberg Trip which I have used and are alright helmets with a peak fitted and a big jump in price
2007 Versys

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Old 03-22-2014, 07:08 AM   #3034
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KTM 640 Adventure

Noah, here ya go. Look at this. Is nothing sacred?
"To me the trail is calling! The old trail - the trail that is always new." Matthew Alexander Henson

"It's not the destination. It's the journey." Me
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Old 03-22-2014, 01:00 PM   #3035
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Originally Posted by kwakbiker View Post
Its basically a Caberg Trip which I have used and are alright helmets with a peak fitted and a big jump in price
I was going to say caberg Duke.

From the seat of my Tiger 800.
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Old 03-22-2014, 04:22 PM   #3036
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Old 03-22-2014, 06:43 PM   #3037
ignore list
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Just stumbled across this...

Found here.
Hope you are well Noah.
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:19 AM   #3038
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Originally Posted by LethPhaos View Post
on the topic of helmets, theres a new one that I think is quite interesting
I have no experience with Caberg though
I know nothing about this helmet. So.. no opinion will be given.

Originally Posted by poppawheelie View Post
Noah, here ya go. Look at this. Is nothing sacred?
Yup. If you are going to cut a KTM.. you should at least have some talent like Roland Sands.

Originally Posted by hardwaregrrl View Post
Just stumbled across this...

Found here.
Hope you are well Noah.
This is probably the most famous Russian bike on ADV rider. Or at least Most famous KLR in Russia.
Noah 08 KTM 690 ADV. 125,000 km. 42 countries. 5 continents and counting.
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:43 AM   #3039
Uh...who me?
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Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Young Harris, GA
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Wow. That castrated KTM is incredibly ugly. At least the Russian KLR has a purpose. Could we get back to the trip? I'm losing my appetite.
'14 R1200GSW; '16 R1200RS
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:33 AM   #3040
Joined: Nov 2013
Location: Kuala Lumpur, Centre of Everywhere
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Heck yes, Phnom Penh. Love that place.

I took an Aussie mate on a southern Cambodia ride for his bucks party. The culmination was a stag night in PP.
I think I took $100USD out on the town and paid for all three of us... nearly killed us all!!

I'll live there one day.
Life. Anyone can play.
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:05 AM   #3041
around the bend
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Joined: Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by JustBob View Post
Wow. That castrated KTM is incredibly ugly. At least the Russian KLR has a purpose. Could we get back to the trip? I'm losing my appetite.
I prefer this cut:

There is a pleasure in the pathed woods, There is a rapture in the smoking pipe, There is chaos, where none intrudes, in the deep dell, with its thrills roar; I love not nature less, but bikes the more. Byron riding.

All pics < 6/30/12 deleted by Apple Now with SmugMug supporting ADV
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Old 03-25-2014, 06:55 AM   #3042
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South Western Cambodia

My friend was in Cambodia and we met up. I knew her from skiing in Georgia the winter before. I asked if she wanted to ride on the back of the bike for a while and she said yes. I made some room by sending my camping gear to a friends house in Australia. I figured the tent and cook stove isn't needed in SEA because everything is so cheap anyway. So I am 2 up until further notice.

Edit: She wishes to be left out of my RR. Sorry guys.

Feb 12. Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville. 232 km.
PP sucks to get in or out. It was hot when we were leaving and now I was riding 2 up. Normally I would just ride like an asshole to try to get out of the city but now I couldn't. After about 1/2 hour we were out of traffic an on the main highway headed toward Sihanoukville. I started to realize just how uncomfortable my seat is when you are not able to stand up. I remember thinking that she might be regretting her decision to ride with me. We would definitely have to do something to make the seat more comfortable. The ride was not very interesting. Straight and dry with lots of people burning brush. My friends John and Ana (Into the World) had been living in Cambodia for a month or so. They paid about $130 to rent an apartment for a month. It was 1 room with a bathroom. Not a bad price. We found a hotel room in town and met up later for dinner on the beach at on of the many restaurants that bbq the catch of the day. They have this weird alien lobster looking thing. The reward was not worth the work to separate the shell. We chatted about travel over a few beers, some shrimp, fish, potatoes and at least 3 plates of bbq'd scallops. John and Ana had ridden 2 up through Africa on a Tenere 660, taken a 690 and a drz400 through Siberia and recently they had been peddling in China and SEA. It was interesting to hear the "other side" of the moto vs pushbike debate coming from those who had now done both. Hint: They both missed the motos.

Hair cut before leaving PP

Cokes with 2 guys from Slovakia renting XR250s. (I had a coke, the rest had Angkor beer)

Feb 13 to 17 Otres 2 Beach in Sihanoukville.
In the morning we went searching for a bungalow to stay in. We found one at the very end of the road. Originally, our plan was to stay 1 or 2 nights but that turned into 5 nights quickly. I spent a few days getting over a stomach bug. I was sitting in the bungalow when a guy outside waved and asked me is that was my KTM. We started to talk and he turned out to be "Sinus" from Vladivostok. I had heard about this guy and seen his website. He had traveled many places by bike over the past 15 years or so and now he was doing tours in Cambodia. Of course he wanted to put ink on my bike. Time flies when you are relaxing on the beach.

Our Bungalow

Our beach.

Building a masterpiece.

We knew it was good when even the little Cambodian kids pointed and said "Angkor Wat"

The famous Sinus. His website

Feb 18. Sihanoukville to Kep. 139 km.
Before we left town, we stopped to have breakfast/lunch/coffee with Ana and John. We were on our way to a local market to get some food when I got signaled over by the police. They asked me "passport and international drivers licence".
I said "what is problem".
"You are driving with light on".
I laughed at them. "Really? You are joking right?"
"NO. Not legal have light in day. Show passport and international drivers licence"
John peddled his bike back and started arguing with one of the other guys. I showed the guy my MN drivers licence but I didn't let go of it. Once you give something important to a cop, they can try to take a bribe. Just then I saw a car with its headlights on.
I pointed and said loudly "Pull them over. They have their headlights on". Then a scooter came and I said the same thing.
The police said. "They small light. You big light".
I replied. "I'm American that's why you pulled me over. Can I go now?"
"You need to learn Cambodia laws and follow Cambodian laws. No light during day"
"Ok. I can go now?"
After about 5 more minutes of John and I being assholes to them, they told us to get out of there. They knew we weren't going to pay. We weren't an easy target like the tourists on a scooter.
I was told we needed to see Kep so after leaving Sihanoukville, so that's where we went. We didn't spend any time exploring Kampot and Kep didn't seem very interesting either. We stopped at a few hotels and guest houses but they all seemed to be full. The $10 bungalow we stayed in had some very loud critters in the ceiling that decided to keep us up.

A bagota being built

Feb 19. Kep to Koh Kong. 349 km.
We went searching for a waterfall about 1200 meters up on a mountain in the Phnum Bokor National Park. Getting there was quite fun. Smooth pavement and a nice twisty road. Since it was dry season, the waterfall was not quite as impressive as we were hoping. I could have doubled the size of it by peeing over the edge. On to Koh Kong. The southwestern part of Cambodia doesn't have much for development outside of Kampot, Koh Kong and Sihanoukville. Koh Kong is a border town so there are plenty of travelers coming and going.


Near the waterfall in the park. This was about 20 meters high.

Village on a river.

I hope we see one :)

Taking sand for construction maybe?

They taste like beef.

"Who are these white people taking pictures of our buffalo?"

Feb 20. Koh Kong.
Koh Kong had good street food and a cheap, clean room with WIFI. We went to the mangrove forest to play tourist. It was interesting and it is good that some conservation efforts are being made. The mangrove forest is a very important defense against tropical storms and tsunami that might otherwise devastate the areas near the sea. For many years fish/shrimp farms and harvesting the mangrove for charcoal production was threatening to wipe out the entire area. We would see later that conservation of natural resources in Cambodia is a loosing battle. In town we found the main market and tried some fruit we did not yet eat. Bbq chicken, fried noodles and Papaya salad from the food carts fed us that night.

The sketchy boardwalk.

View from a 4 story tower built at the boat landing. This was at the end of the 2 or 3 km boardwalk. From here you could take a boat further into the mangrove forest, to the coast or up river.

Koh Kong

Dude working on his 4 cyl diesel powered wooden boat.

He was really good at what he was doing.

I'm not brave enough yet.

The outside of a weird fruit. The inside looked like garlic and tasted a bit like berries.

Feb 21. Koh Kong to Pursat. 268 km.
After looking at pictures on the internet of the road north of Koh Kong, I was sure we would be in for an interesting day. As it turns out, in the past couple years there have been many hydro-electric projects in the mountains and jungle in western Cambodia. Where before this area could only be reached by 4x4 or enduro.. Now it was an easy Sunday ride 2 up. The road didn't really get bad until we turned toward Pursat. This was due to heavy traffic, pot holes and poor maintenance. We met a guy on an XR250 who told us about a nice place to say in Pursat. When we fount the hotel, it was a huge 4 story white building with a swimming pool, spa, gym, restaurant, and bar. All for $20. This would be a $200 hotel room in any city in Europe or the US.

Smooth fast gravel.

1 lane concrete with one heck of a drop off the sides. It was interesting when you met a truck. Since you are smaller, you have to move.

One of the many hydro projects we passed.

Burn everthing. Ask questions later.

It seems in Cambodia they leave a truck when it tips over. We would see a few more in the middle of no where abandoned.

I hope we see one of these also.

Feb 22. Pursat.
Since we felt so comfortable in the lap of luxury, we decided to stay another day. Its funny how you can get lazy when your ass is still sore from the ride the day before.

Feb 23. Pursat to Phnom Penh. 187 km.
It was a quick ride until about 30 km from PP. Then it seems to go on forever with the traffic. We made it and found a cheap hotel room close to a night market. Rice, stir fried vegetables with meat, bbq chicken, cucumbers and baguettes would be our dinners in the hotel room for the next few nights.

Going to the night market in PP.

Any pirated movie you want. I don't think you will ever see a hard plastic case for a DVD in this part of the world.

Feb 24 and 25. Phnom Penh.
We had to come back to PP so I could extend my visa which was about to end on the 25th. Time flies since I had already been in Cambodia for a month. My friend was complaining that we did not go to enough touristy places. She said all we do is ride around and never stop. I tried to explain to her why most tourist places suck but it wasn't working. So in PP I said we can go anywhere you want. First place we went was the palace. It was $7 each. After about 15 minutes she looked at me with a shameful smile and said "ok, we don't need to go to anymore palaces". I laughed and said "I told you so". Next we went to "the silk island". There are 2 islands in the Mekong river about 15 km north of PP where most of the people that live there are part of the silk industry. Either raising silk worms for the raw silk, making the thread, or weaving the thread on huge looms. It was an interesting way to spend the morning.. and we only saw 1 other whitey :P The day wasn't over yet. When we got back into PP it was just after noon. My friend had not seen S21 and I had not seen the killing fields. Some people do both in one day but I wouldn't recommend it. It would be way to depressing. I was skeptical about it but it was actually good tour. Every visitor gets an audio player/guide to listen to. It tells the history, the events during, stories and the events after the Khmer Rouge. Every rainy season pieces of bone, teeth and clothing come to the surface. I did not take many pictures there. Instead I walked around and thought about history, life and the future of the Cambodia and the region. If you are in PP I would say you can skip S21 but the killing fields tour is a must. It is more educational and definitely more emotional. That evening I got my passport back with a brand new 1 month visa extension. We would leave PP in the morning for the isolated areas near the Vietnam border.

Guy making candy.

Kids eating candy.

Seems like a good place to nap.

I'm not sure how this boat is floating.


Bus to where?

The building where the throne is.

The ferry to the silk island. This was our first taiste of Cambodian ferries.

Our Tuk Tuk driver trying to get off the ferry.

Old lady weaving silk.

Hand made, in their house.

Don't let the CIA see this photo. I won't be let back into the states.

Mother and daughter

Our stylish tuk tuk driver.

Young silk worms. Before they make their cocoon. The cocoon is what is used to make the silk. They put it in boiling water to unravel the thread. If the silk worm is allowed to become butterfly, it will eat part of the cocoon to get out and it won't be able to be used for silk production because the tread will be to short.

This is how you weelie a scooter. Try to pull a tuk tuk up a hill.

Many of the graves were dug up. In the middle of the killing fields there is a large pagoda to honor the 20,000 people who were killed here. Many of their remains are now in this pagoda.
Noah 08 KTM 690 ADV. 125,000 km. 42 countries. 5 continents and counting.
RTW Ride Report -->
Blog ------------------>

RoninMoto screwed with this post 03-26-2014 at 06:42 PM
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:42 AM   #3043
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thanks for the update!
God. Family. Motorcycles. Guns. Music. Books. Dogs. Beer. Baseball. Work. That about covers it.

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Old 03-25-2014, 10:17 AM   #3044
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Good stuff
What would you do if you weren't afraid?
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:27 PM   #3045
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Don't let the CIA see this photo. I won't be let back into the states.
Best. Thing. Ever.
BMW 650gs- A bike named Douglas.
The Fool's Progress: Onward-Upwards-Global on a 650gs
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