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Old 03-23-2014, 07:44 PM   #89836
FlowBee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kommando View Post
205d

Plasti-Dip spray is available at Home Depot and a few other home improvement places.
Wally World too.
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Old 03-23-2014, 07:46 PM   #89837
thinairflyer
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Thanks for adding the pics ER70S-2. My DR is okay but my KLX250S clutch cable frayed and caused the condition I mentioned earlier, clutch wouldn't release and couldn't adjust it properly. Your pics tell the story well.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:09 PM   #89838
jjxlrider
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Does the clutch only not disengage when in first like your saying ? Can you have it in third or fourth, pull in the clutch and have it work fine?

Otherwise did you put everything back together the same way it came out? Which could have been wrong in the first place?

If that disc with the ring is not in the right order, the clutch will not work.


.
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'08 525XC , --> '06 LTR450. looking for '96 thru '05 DR650
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:46 PM   #89839
creativeee
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the DR650 thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
Healthy cable end on my '04.







Internet photo of a failing cable.






There's mine

Sent from my phone
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:47 PM   #89840
uconn1150
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Be sure to look at the proper clutch diagram. The pre96 appears to be opposite compared to the 96+ according to the Zenseeker site. The wave ring goes closest to the bike compared to the 96+. Maybe the PO followed the wrong sequence.
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Old 03-23-2014, 08:58 PM   #89841
creativeee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uconn1150 View Post
Be sure to look at the proper clutch diagram. The pre96 appears to be opposite compared to the 96+ according to the Zenseeker site. The wave ring goes closest to the bike compared to the 96+. Maybe the PO followed the wrong sequence.
The service manual - the file is called "DR650 Service Manual(early)" - although I am not sure how to check and see what year it is for specifically. I am almost positive that I put everything back in correctly, but who knows.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjxlrider View Post
Does the clutch only not disengage when in first like your saying ? Can you have it in third or fourth, pull in the clutch and have it work fine?

Otherwise did you put everything back together the same way it came out? Which could have been wrong in the first place?

If that disc with the ring is not in the right order, the clutch will not work.


.
I just took it out for a spin - the bike does the same thing in second and third gear. Main thing happening is that the clutch is not fully disengaging. If I adjust the cable to try and make it disengage, it still catches on the gears and will bog down - the only difference with adjusting it is that the clutch is engaged all the time. I don't know if I am making any sense but basically when I try to make the clutch engage more by adjusting the cable, the bike just revs and doesn't move much at all.


I am starting to think that maybe the pinion and rack have something wrong with them. Is this possible/common? I need to find a local motorcycle man who can take a look at my bike.
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:19 PM   #89842
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativeee View Post
...................
I am starting to think that maybe the pinion and rack have something wrong with them. Is this possible/common? I need to find a local motorcycle man who can take a look at my bike.
Your cable looks good, thanks for the photo.

It could be the pinion and rack adjustment, we have the same issues with the '96-current DRs when we remove the clutch cover to Loctite/safety wire the NSU screws.

Edit to add: It looks like your arm pulls forward, ours pulls to the rear. Be sure to allow for that when reading the info in the following link. Here's a link showing more details. I hope this doesn't confuse the situation.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -

ER70S-2 screwed with this post 03-23-2014 at 09:35 PM
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:32 PM   #89843
ER70S-2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativeee View Post
Well I just broke one of the screws while tightening the springs down. Fack.

Also I am a little confused. The plates I just took out of the bike seem to be a little smaller than the ones I ordered. Here are a few pictures to explain..

So this is one of the old ones and it's got this ring inside it. This was the plate farthest from the bike (closest to me)


Here is a comparison of the old and new, the old on top. You can see how it's smaller - that ring that fit inside the old one doesn't fit inside the new one. Is this bad?



Also how on earth do I find out the correct order they're supposed to go in? Time to start searching for new screws and that teethed washer..

Edit: I am an idiot. Realized some of the friction plates are different sized and had them in the wrong order. That little ring DOES fit the new clutch. But I'm still wondering: if I have the first one correct, does the order of the rest matter?

Sent from my phone
This still bothers me. What did you find out? Did the parts go together properly?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:38 PM   #89844
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This still bothers me. What did you find out? Did the parts go together properly?
After reading what I should have read before I started working on the bike I figured out why this was. The first clutch plate (outermost) is smaller than the rest of them. I was comparing the first clutch plate in the old set to the non-first clutch plate in the new set. Once I found the first clutch plate in the new set, everything made sense.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:27 PM   #89845
ER70S-2
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SUZUKI DR650SE INFORMATION INDEX
Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:20 PM   #89846
1989THEARK
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Location: Moreno Valley Ca
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Bluhduh Hey guys. Not to get all political on here.

But have you guys heard about the save the patch campaign?
I know this may not exactly affect us ADV guys.

unless you have a harley logo on your beamer
or wear chaps while your tearing up the trails on your ktm.

but i think we ADV guys should know. Because the next time
you and a group of buddies want to ride together to hit the trails
You might not have that liberty anymore

Here is a little bit that i found on whats going on Please add anything you guys might know or what we could do to help the cause

http://sacramento.cbslocal.com/2014/...-biker-rights/

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/321/17...itol.aspx:deal
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:15 AM   #89847
kezzajohnson
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Vapour RPM sensor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
Ok few questions here


Also i want to change up the rpm wire from vapor unit, its wrapped around the plug wire now and hook it up to coil wire
I forget witch wire it is


Thank
She runs like a raped ape right now
Wow
Here is where I have my Vapour RPM sensor wire connected to the coil.



The connector you see in the photo is coming from the coil and it is on the right hand side of the frame just behind the fuel tank grommet. Just follow those two black braided wires back from the coil to this connector. The wires on the other side of the connector (you can see a white and blue wire in the photo and the other one is Black and White) go back to the CDI unit which sends the ignition signal (or electrical pulse) to the coil and thus is a very accurate measurement of RPM. The sensor wire is the red one and it is soldered into the metal plug (spade) alongside the coil wire inside the plastic housing. Works a treat.
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kezzajohnson screwed with this post 03-24-2014 at 03:23 AM
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:41 AM   #89848
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gh0zt36 View Post
I'm no where near intelligent enough for that .... multiply times Pi ??? Hard to believe I'm going to be training as a plumbing engineer / assistant for a major company soon eh ? Yea .... I can't beliee it myself. I suck at math lol
i myself am an sanitary engineer...local #1 ny
Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Here is where I have my Vapour RPM sensor wire connected to the coil.



The connector you see in the photo is coming from the coil and it is on the right hand side of the frame just behind the fuel tank grommet. Just follow those two black braided wires back from the coil to this connector. The wires on the other side of the connector (you can see a white and blue wire in the photo and the other one is Black and White) go back to the CDI unit which sends the ignition signal (or electrical pulse) to the coil and thus is a very accurate measurement of RPM. The sensor wire is the red one and it is soldered into the metal plug (spade) alongside the coil wire inside the plastic housing. Works a treat.
thats perfect will do this as soon as i get my new enrichment circuit cable....
wooot thanks...

do you know whats a good shift point settings....i think i am at 4200 and 5200 or something like that
and temp warnings for engine? i have it at 320* warning and 380* danger....
mine seems to run in this cold temp (30*) at around 250* range
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:26 AM   #89849
thinairflyer
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creativeee clutch problem

creativeee I see you posted a pic of the engine end of your clutch cable and it is good. The end that usually gives the trouble is the clutch lever end on the handlebar, seldom the end you took a pic of. Did you also check that upper end? Look carefully at that end if you haven't already done so. L D
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:47 AM   #89850
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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temps and revs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
i myself am an sanitary engineer...local #1 ny

thats perfect will do this as soon as i get my new enrichment circuit cable....
wooot thanks...

do you know whats a good shift point settings....i think i am at 4200 and 5200 or something like that
and temp warnings for engine? i have it at 320* warning and 380* danger....
mine seems to run in this cold temp (30*) at around 250* range


As for temp guage, I used a round file and opened out the sensor ring that would normally go on the spark plug and installed it on to the upper oil banjo on the right side of the engine cam cover. The ring takes the place of the copper washer that was there previously and measures the oil temp which I believe is a more realistic measurement. I have my temp warning light set at 120 degrees Celcius (248 degrees F) and danger light at 150 degrees C (302 degrees F) - The engine can probably tolerate higher than that but that is what I have set based on the
temperatures that I was getting when I first got the vapor.




For normal running on a 30+ degree C (86 degrees F) day (North Queensland Australia), the temp sits anywhere between 78 to 88 degrees C (191 degrees F) and with some idling at traffic lights etc will rise to around 98 to 100 degrees C. (212 degrees F) A couple of hoccasions I have had it to 120 degrees C (248 degrees F) but only after some excessive time idling on a very hot day. I have thought about rigging up a 12 volt computer fan to the back of the oil cooler that I can switch on manually when idling excessively or plugging around in the bush. I have never had it anywhere near the danger point.

In case you didn't notice, we work in degrees Celcius here in OZ but I have made it easy for you by converting)

As for max revs, I have mine set at 7500 rpm but I can't be sure where the DR redlines exactly. I seldom rev it out too much tending to use its torque and bottom end which is even better now with the FCR Mx Carby.
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