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Old 03-23-2014, 09:32 PM   #89851
ER70S-2
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Location: SE Denver-ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by creativeee View Post
Well I just broke one of the screws while tightening the springs down. Fack.

Also I am a little confused. The plates I just took out of the bike seem to be a little smaller than the ones I ordered. Here are a few pictures to explain..

So this is one of the old ones and it's got this ring inside it. This was the plate farthest from the bike (closest to me)


Here is a comparison of the old and new, the old on top. You can see how it's smaller - that ring that fit inside the old one doesn't fit inside the new one. Is this bad?



Also how on earth do I find out the correct order they're supposed to go in? Time to start searching for new screws and that teethed washer..

Edit: I am an idiot. Realized some of the friction plates are different sized and had them in the wrong order. That little ring DOES fit the new clutch. But I'm still wondering: if I have the first one correct, does the order of the rest matter?

Sent from my phone
This still bothers me. What did you find out? Did the parts go together properly?
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Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-23-2014, 09:38 PM   #89852
creativeee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ER70S-2 View Post
This still bothers me. What did you find out? Did the parts go together properly?
After reading what I should have read before I started working on the bike I figured out why this was. The first clutch plate (outermost) is smaller than the rest of them. I was comparing the first clutch plate in the old set to the non-first clutch plate in the new set. Once I found the first clutch plate in the new set, everything made sense.
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Old 03-23-2014, 10:27 PM   #89853
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Threewheelbonnie View Post
"BTW, I don't do style. It's a dirt bike, not some girlie dress-up thing." -
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:20 PM   #89854
1989THEARK
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Location: Moreno Valley Ca
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Bluhduh Hey guys. Not to get all political on here.

But have you guys heard about the save the patch campaign?
I know this may not exactly affect us ADV guys.

unless you have a harley logo on your beamer
or wear chaps while your tearing up the trails on your ktm.

but i think we ADV guys should know. Because the next time
you and a group of buddies want to ride together to hit the trails
You might not have that liberty anymore

Here is a little bit that i found on whats going on Please add anything you guys might know or what we could do to help the cause

http://sacramento.cbslocal.com/2014/...-biker-rights/

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/321/17...itol.aspx:deal
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:15 AM   #89855
kezzajohnson
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Joined: Apr 2007
Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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Vapour RPM sensor

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
Ok few questions here


Also i want to change up the rpm wire from vapor unit, its wrapped around the plug wire now and hook it up to coil wire
I forget witch wire it is


Thank
She runs like a raped ape right now
Wow
Here is where I have my Vapour RPM sensor wire connected to the coil.



The connector you see in the photo is coming from the coil and it is on the right hand side of the frame just behind the fuel tank grommet. Just follow those two black braided wires back from the coil to this connector. The wires on the other side of the connector (you can see a white and blue wire in the photo and the other one is Black and White) go back to the CDI unit which sends the ignition signal (or electrical pulse) to the coil and thus is a very accurate measurement of RPM. The sensor wire is the red one and it is soldered into the metal plug (spade) alongside the coil wire inside the plastic housing. Works a treat.
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kezzajohnson screwed with this post 03-24-2014 at 03:23 AM
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Old 03-24-2014, 04:41 AM   #89856
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gh0zt36 View Post
I'm no where near intelligent enough for that .... multiply times Pi ??? Hard to believe I'm going to be training as a plumbing engineer / assistant for a major company soon eh ? Yea .... I can't beliee it myself. I suck at math lol
i myself am an sanitary engineer...local #1 ny
Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
Here is where I have my Vapour RPM sensor wire connected to the coil.



The connector you see in the photo is coming from the coil and it is on the right hand side of the frame just behind the fuel tank grommet. Just follow those two black braided wires back from the coil to this connector. The wires on the other side of the connector (you can see a white and blue wire in the photo and the other one is Black and White) go back to the CDI unit which sends the ignition signal (or electrical pulse) to the coil and thus is a very accurate measurement of RPM. The sensor wire is the red one and it is soldered into the metal plug (spade) alongside the coil wire inside the plastic housing. Works a treat.
thats perfect will do this as soon as i get my new enrichment circuit cable....
wooot thanks...

do you know whats a good shift point settings....i think i am at 4200 and 5200 or something like that
and temp warnings for engine? i have it at 320* warning and 380* danger....
mine seems to run in this cold temp (30*) at around 250* range
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:26 AM   #89857
thinairflyer
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creativeee clutch problem

creativeee I see you posted a pic of the engine end of your clutch cable and it is good. The end that usually gives the trouble is the clutch lever end on the handlebar, seldom the end you took a pic of. Did you also check that upper end? Look carefully at that end if you haven't already done so. L D
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Old 03-24-2014, 05:47 AM   #89858
kezzajohnson
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Location: Cairns - Queensland Australia
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temps and revs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
i myself am an sanitary engineer...local #1 ny

thats perfect will do this as soon as i get my new enrichment circuit cable....
wooot thanks...

do you know whats a good shift point settings....i think i am at 4200 and 5200 or something like that
and temp warnings for engine? i have it at 320* warning and 380* danger....
mine seems to run in this cold temp (30*) at around 250* range


As for temp guage, I used a round file and opened out the sensor ring that would normally go on the spark plug and installed it on to the upper oil banjo on the right side of the engine cam cover. The ring takes the place of the copper washer that was there previously and measures the oil temp which I believe is a more realistic measurement. I have my temp warning light set at 120 degrees Celcius (248 degrees F) and danger light at 150 degrees C (302 degrees F) - The engine can probably tolerate higher than that but that is what I have set based on the
temperatures that I was getting when I first got the vapor.




For normal running on a 30+ degree C (86 degrees F) day (North Queensland Australia), the temp sits anywhere between 78 to 88 degrees C (191 degrees F) and with some idling at traffic lights etc will rise to around 98 to 100 degrees C. (212 degrees F) A couple of hoccasions I have had it to 120 degrees C (248 degrees F) but only after some excessive time idling on a very hot day. I have thought about rigging up a 12 volt computer fan to the back of the oil cooler that I can switch on manually when idling excessively or plugging around in the bush. I have never had it anywhere near the danger point.

In case you didn't notice, we work in degrees Celcius here in OZ but I have made it easy for you by converting)

As for max revs, I have mine set at 7500 rpm but I can't be sure where the DR redlines exactly. I seldom rev it out too much tending to use its torque and bottom end which is even better now with the FCR Mx Carby.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:48 AM   #89859
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kezzajohnson View Post
As for temp guage, I used a round file and opened out the sensor ring that would normally go on the spark plug and installed it on to the upper oil banjo on the right side of the engine cam cover. The ring takes the place of the copper washer that was there previously and measures the oil temp which I believe is a more realistic measurement. I have my temp warning light set at 120 degrees Celcius (248 degrees F) and danger light at 150 degrees C (302 degrees F) - The engine can probably tolerate higher than that but that is what I have set based on the

temperatures that I was getting when I first got the vapor.









For normal running on a 30+ degree C (86 degrees F) day (North Queensland Australia), the temp sits anywhere between 78 to 88 degrees C (191 degrees F) and with some idling at traffic lights etc will rise to around 98 to 100 degrees C. (212 degrees F) A couple of hoccasions I have had it to 120 degrees C (248 degrees F) but only after some excessive time idling on a very hot day. I have thought about rigging up a 12 volt computer fan to the back of the oil cooler that I can switch on manually when idling excessively or plugging around in the bush. I have never had it anywhere near the danger point.



In case you didn't notice, we work in degrees Celcius here in OZ but I have made it easy for you by converting)



As for max revs, I have mine set at 7500 rpm but I can't be sure where the DR redlines exactly. I seldom rev it out too much tending to use its torque and bottom end which is even better now with the FCR Mx Carby.

Dam my motor is running at 250-270 on a 30*f day
And i just put a new oil cooler on too
Wtf
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Old 03-24-2014, 07:11 AM   #89860
tedski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
Dam my motor is running at 250-270 on a 30*f day
And i just put a new oil cooler on too
Wtf
How is the fueling? Lean engines run hot.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:07 AM   #89861
1989THEARK
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I wouldnt make too big a deal over it. My bike stays around there cold days or hot



Quote:
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How is the fueling? Lean engines run hot.
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Old 03-24-2014, 08:43 AM   #89862
thump!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brutalguyracing View Post
Dam my motor is running at 250-270 on a 30*f day
And i just put a new oil cooler on too
Wtf
The difference in observed operating temperature may be due to the location of the sensor. The OP has his sensor mounted under the old pipe banjo nut so he is measuring oil temperature. If you have your sensor mounted under the spark plug as recommended by a TrailTech you are measuring cylinder head temperature. Temperture readings from those two locations could be significantly different.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:38 AM   #89863
Gh0zt36
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Ok , so normally my bike starts right up after running for a min. It's cool out and usually I choke the bike but I didnt this time. It fired up cold start hadnt been run today at all , went to get coffee a mile down the road , got back on the bike and went to start and it wouldnt fire right away and I let up and then I hit the magic button again and I think it backfired. Fairly loud too then turned over. First time it has done that. I just adjusted the valves a hundred miles ago ( correctly I think ) .

Could it be cause the motor was cold and I didnt choke it or ?

Gh0zt36 screwed with this post 03-24-2014 at 09:45 AM
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:47 AM   #89864
tedski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The difference in observed operating temperature may be due to the location of the sensor. The OP has his sensor mounted under the old pipe banjo nut so he is measuring oil temperature. If you have your sensor mounted under the spark plug as recommended by a TrailTech you are measuring cylinder head temperature. Temperture readings from those two locations could be significantly different.
Great point. I missed that detail in my pre-coffee fog.
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:12 AM   #89865
Brutalguyracing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thump! View Post
The difference in observed operating temperature may be due to the location of the sensor. The OP has his sensor mounted under the old pipe banjo nut so he is measuring oil temperature. If you have your sensor mounted under the spark plug as recommended by a TrailTech you are measuring cylinder head temperature. Temperture readings from those two locations could be significantly different.
yes i have mine on the outboard plug...
should i change it to the banjo bolt?
which is better?
and does anyone know the danger points as in temp on these motors
id like to do it right the first time.....

also how would one tell if the bike is running lean?
check the plugs?......
i just put new plugs in when i put the new motor in the bike a few hundred miles ago?
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