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Old 04-29-2014, 01:19 PM   #1756
ph0rk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
True dat, but with a caveat.
Changing the muffler only does next to nil. Changing the headers to eleiminate the cat converter opens the system up to help it 'breath', causing less back pressure, and in turn, allowing the boxer motor to rev and de-rev easier.
The result is less restriction and a smoother running motorall around.
Money better spent on a set of headers than a slip-on can.
A smoother running motor that might be less good around town, where the low end torque is rather useful. Pretty damn handy jockeying for position on the interstate around rush hour, too - I can squirt ahead of traffic about to do something stupid with only right wrist input, regardless of where I am in the RPM range (even in 6th).

Others disagree, of course.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:32 PM   #1757
Rapid Dog
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contrare'

Quote:
Originally Posted by ph0rk View Post
A smoother running motor that might be less good around town, where the low end torque is rather useful. Pretty damn handy jockeying for position on the interstate around rush hour, too - I can squirt ahead of traffic about to do something stupid with only right wrist input, regardless of where I am in the RPM range (even in 6th).

Others disagree, of course.
Just the opposite, smoother running meaning less jerkiness and more refined/controlled operation with both the throttle and the gearbox/clutch.
This doesn't mean a loss of torque.

2 of the best mods for a modern boxer are the cat removal and a fuel nanny or Accelerator (booster plug) module.
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Old 04-29-2014, 01:43 PM   #1758
ph0rk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
Just the opposite, smoother running meaning less jerkiness and more refined/controlled operation with both the throttle and the gearbox/clutch.
This doesn't mean a loss of torque.

2 of the best mods for a modern boxer are the cat removal and a fuel nanny or Accelerator (booster plug) module.
I don't see how removing the cat won't also reduce backpressure, especially at lower revs - perhaps the flapper valve can provide enough? I find it unlikely that you'll markedly improve performance at one end of the rev range without altering it elsewhere. Maybe the motor is just that restricted - but if you're optimizing engine air flow at one rate, it can't remain optimized at the lower rate, too, can it?

I wouldn't do any more than a slip on, and then only for sound - Illegal in my current state anyway, but do the premade cat removal systems include provisions for keeping the flapper valve?

(IMHO, the flapper serves two functions - readability and less obnoxious sound at low revs/around town).

Also, regarding performance, how in the hell is a 2011+ R12 not quick enough for legal speeds?

Then again, maybe the R12 has enough whoopass that losing some low end won't matter - I almost never go WOT as it is.
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:47 PM   #1759
Gillus
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yes the Wart will generically mount to the OE rack

A guy I know calls a top case a wart as they stick up in the air .

Bought this E370 Givi Monolock with back pad and all the mounting pieces in like new condition for $150 shipped off Ebay. Positive feedback for Burnt Rubber Motorsports in Marietta GA.

I used the Givi generic mounting kit but had to get longer M6X40 bolts. Took a few minutes to find out where they would fit securely under the plastic part of the BMW rack. The top box is rated at 6lbs, that's 1/2 a 12 pack so I think it will work fine without the E193 kit. I will keep a close eye on it for loosening but it has locknuts or shifting. The BMW top box rack is the same for a lot of BMW applications, cross referenced the pn and it is the same as the scooter rack so I think a scooter box for $300 might even work as well as a lot of BMW top cases.

This E370 is 19" wide, an E450 is 22" and would look good without asking does this top box make my bike look fat. Might hold two helmets also.






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Old 04-29-2014, 04:12 PM   #1760
JimVonBaden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
True dat, but with a caveat.
Changing the muffler only does next to nil. Changing the headers to eleiminate the cat converter opens the system up to help it 'breath', causing less back pressure, and in turn, allowing the boxer motor to rev and de-rev easier.
The result is less restriction and a smoother running motorall around.
Money better spent on a set of headers than a slip-on can.
I guess it all depends on your level of connection to the bike. The numbers move up and down the scale, but do not significantly change with even a full exhaust. Smoothness? I believe you would get more from a fuel enricher.
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:39 AM   #1761
clevishook
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gillus View Post
A guy I know calls a top case a wart as they stick up in the air .

Bought this E370 Givi Monolock with back pad and all the mounting pieces in like new condition for $150 shipped off Ebay. Positive feedback for Burnt Rubber Motorsports in Marietta GA.

I used the Givi generic mounting kit but had to get longer M6X40 bolts. Took a few minutes to find out where they would fit securely under the plastic part of the BMW rack. The top box is rated at 6lbs, that's 1/2 a 12 pack so I think it will work fine without the E193 kit. I will keep a close eye on it for loosening but it has locknuts or shifting. The BMW top box rack is the same for a lot of BMW applications, cross referenced the pn and it is the same as the scooter rack so I think a scooter box for $300 might even work as well as a lot of BMW top cases.

This E370 is 19" wide, an E450 is 22" and would look good without asking does this top box make my bike look fat. Might hold two helmets also.






Nice find. Looks "right" on the bike. Thanks for the mounting info.
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Old 04-30-2014, 07:13 AM   #1762
Mike Figielski
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janson-swg View Post
I just finished making some changes on my R1100R...hope you like it.




Looks cool, I like the GS tank and headlight change. Nice tail section too. Likely won't see another one like it. Good job!
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Old 04-30-2014, 08:47 AM   #1763
Roadscum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ph0rk View Post
?......
....
.....

(IMHO, the flapper serves two functions - readability and less obnoxious sound at low revs/around town).

Also, regarding performance, how in the hell is a 2011+ R12 not quick enough for legal speeds?

Then again, maybe the R12 has enough whoopass that losing some low end won't matter - I almost never go WOT as it is.
There are at least two thing in life that you can never get two much of, one is power!

With the flapper removed and an Akrapovic can there is NO "readability" issue whatsoever..... and it rides good to! The sound at roll on has also been improved, it talks to me in a way no other motor can! .

Paul
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:14 AM   #1764
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadscum View Post
There are at least two thing in life that you can never get two much of, one is power!

With the flapper removed and an Akrapovic can there is NO "readability" issue whatsoever..... and it rides good to! The sound at roll on has also been improved, it talks to me in a way no other motor can! .

Paul
(That should have been "rideability", a word auto-correct doesn't seem to like.)

To each their own - I wouldn't do a thing to the R12R that would reduce low end grunt, compromise around town rideability, or take away the polite sound at mellow speeds/paces - those are its best features! At the most, I'd be willing to enhance sound at WOT with a slip-on, but only if it remained polite at a mellow pace.

As for high end power: I had trouble keeping it under 90 in West Texas - plenty enough for me. Absolutely zero desire for more - especially if more power means less low end (which it almost always does, short of adding a small turbo - no thanks. The torque curve is pretty awesome just as it is.).

I've never had any fueling issues like I did on my F800R, though - and I can imagine that some that have might be willing to take drastic measures to deal with it. I'd be willing to test ride a boosterplug just to see what it does (with my bike, specifically), but installing it is a PITA as the plug is under the tank, so not really worth it to me.
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Old 04-30-2014, 10:46 AM   #1765
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ph0rk View Post
...but installing it is a PITA as the plug is under the tank, so not really worth it to me...
It's super easy to install a plug.
Remove side panels.
Remove tank bolt left side
Pull tank back and up.
Install plug inline at the airbox.
Reverse.
Simple easy.

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Old 04-30-2014, 11:46 AM   #1766
ph0rk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog View Post
It's super easy to install a plug.
Remove side panels.
Remove tank bolt left side
Pull tank back and up.
Install plug inline at the airbox.
Reverse.
Simple easy.

If it was simply under the seat I'd do it, I'm a little less inclined to make an afternoon of it.

Moot point, though, I don't have a booster plug around to play with.
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Old 04-30-2014, 12:56 PM   #1767
SF_Hooligan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ph0rk View Post
If it was simply under the seat I'd do it, I'm a little less inclined to make an afternoon of it.

Moot point, though, I don't have a booster plug around to play with.
It's minutes. I did mine when I still lived in SF and had to do it in a shared garage where I wasn't supposed to be working on bikes.

I'm in Oaktown too—you're welcome to check mine out some time. My bike/booster plug, that is.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:45 AM   #1768
torags
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Location: SF Bay Area
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I ride around San Francisco.

I have a sport shield

I split lanes and found the stock handlebars a trifle wide; I was almost hitting car mirrors (on both sides - one side is acceptable.. )

I just ordered LSL sport touring bars. Less wide (28" vs 33") and a little less high (I got them in black)

I liked the stock bars in the city, they give a little more leverage, but they do expose more arm outside the windshield - wind/cold. Requires a slight change in rider orientation.
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:46 AM   #1769
stevee
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1100r

Here's mine....

1998 vintage
37k on the clock
One previous owner
Service history
Complete tool kit

Farkles include
Handguards
Engine protectors
Givi screen with added deflector attached at the top
Ram mount
Baglux tank protector
Front mudguard extender
Givi mount for top box (the top box is my own addition as is the Bead Rider on the seat)



I find the stock headlight poor so am looking to sort that with some help from a mate.

Steve
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:57 AM   #1770
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I find the stock headlight poor so am looking to sort that with some help from a mate.

Steve
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