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Old 05-01-2014, 05:44 PM   #1936
beeper
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Joined: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
Oddometer: 771
Having two completely different bikes is a good thing, keeps things interesting.

Maximum Suzuki is the place to go for all things Bandit.
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Old 05-01-2014, 06:37 PM   #1937
YJake
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I went between a Ninja 250 and a Bandit 1200 while commuting for awhile... Talk about an interesting first few miles before you realize you don't NEED to go WOT to hit 70

-Jake
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Old 05-02-2014, 04:16 AM   #1938
Cortez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nessman View Post
I thought I made a mistake, I didn't like the bike. It handled funny, the front end was ponderous, it weighed a ton and it didn't feel right.
I'm gonna take a guess here.. your rear tire is too low on air.
Check them both and see if they're at proper pressures.

But yeah, it should feel heavier on the bars compared to the
bike you're used to, and by a lot, but should feel stable and
planted. If it feel "funny" and wanders a bit, it's usually the
tire pressure.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:39 AM   #1939
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Location: NEPA
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No one ever accused a bandit of being "flickable"
Although compared to the 92 concours she's agile and quick steering.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:47 AM   #1940
Crocodile Tears
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Toledo, OH ; Houghton, MI
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Well, my Hayabusa shock came in today and the racetech springs and gold valves are on order to be delivered wednesday. New set of tires is ready to go for after my next interstate jaunt over memorial day.

I could use a brake upgrade over the SS lines I have currently.

Maybe I'll get motivated and do a step by step on some of the install.

Doing my best to turn the sledgehammer into a precision sledgehammer
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:16 PM   #1941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crocodile Tears View Post
Well, my Hayabusa shock came in today
Let me know how that swap goes, I hear it raises the rear end and is stiffer butI ride 2-up with Givi 45L boxes a lot so I'm looking for a stiffer rear end. Even riding solo it will make it feel more "sporty"

-Jake
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Old 05-03-2014, 03:18 PM   #1942
Crocodile Tears
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Location: Toledo, OH ; Houghton, MI
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Well, I have to say the shock swap is legitimately not worthy of photographs

It's very straightforward. To clear the resevoir, there are a pair of hinges on the airbox that the top panel hinge on to mate to the bottom panel. Looking from back to front, the hinge on the left must be trimmed off. I didnt have a dremel handy, so a pair of dykes, a razor knife, and a file made relatively quick work of it. That is the only item that requires more than bare bones basic removal of nuts and bolts.

Remove seat
remove side panels
remove battery
remove forward pair of screws holding inner fender in place
Unbolt the shock, top and rear. Flex the inner fender down and the shock comes out.
Unbolt the rear of the fuel tank, and lift it up.
Remove the plate that the fuel tank mounts on.
Remove the airbox top panel and perform the trimming as described above. Do the same to the bottom panel hinge portion. Reinstall.
Reinstall all fuel tank components.
Drop in the Hayabusa shock and bolt the bottom to its linkage.
Find a friend to lift the rear wheel / swingarm up until you can insert the bolt at the top eye of the shock.
Torque the bolts to whatever the suzuki spec is, or to "that feels good" like I did.
Reinstall the bolts that hold in the inner fender
Reinstall battery
Reinstall side panels
Reinstall seat.

Hope for the best.

Hope this helps anyone looking into this mod. It took about 90 minutes fumbling my way through it and in my estimation is very worth it. It is significantly less harsh on stutterbumps and seems to actually not be trying to buck me off at all times, and that is with zero tuning of the setup. I havent measured sag but it feels to be close to where it needs to be. Once the racetech front end goes in I will probably do a more scientific setup on it.

I did confirm the shock was set up to factory specs prior to installing, for reference.
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Old 05-04-2014, 06:44 AM   #1943
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Awesome, thanks for sharing! Did you notice a difference in seat height?
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:23 AM   #1944
Crocodile Tears
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManSandman View Post
Awesome, thanks for sharing! Did you notice a difference in seat height?

It is higher, but the difference is pretty negligible. If I was cranking up the preload it may be different once the suspension sagged down. As it stands it seems to sag down a touch more than it used to and may be about a half inch higher with me on it.
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Old 05-09-2014, 08:06 AM   #1945
SteelB12
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Location: Prince William County, VA
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Having a bit of trouble today. On the interstate, the bike runs fine for awhile and then after some time I lose power and it sputters and kicks as if it is running out of gas. Had 4 bars when this last happened. I stopped and retightened the battery connections. I lifted the tank and the fuel line is routed properly. Ran fine yesterday for 100 mile ride. At the end of the day I put in some B12 carb cleaner (cheaper version of Sea Foam) and sprayed some of the engine with brake cleaner to get rid of some of the gunk that's on there. The only time I had something similar happen it was a misrouted fuel line, but it looks fine

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Old 05-09-2014, 08:33 AM   #1946
YJake
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Check the two carb breathers between bodies 1/2 & 3/4. Mine did that when the breathers were routed up instead of down and had a crack in the "T" connectors.

-Jake
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:29 AM   #1947
SteelB12
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Thanks for the tip. Will do when I get the chance. Made it the last 50 miles no issue. Very strange

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Old 05-09-2014, 10:38 AM   #1948
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Sounds like a fuel tank vent issue.

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Old 05-09-2014, 11:34 AM   #1949
SteelB12
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The boot on the right most carb is not on all the way. Once I can remove the side cover I will try to secure the boot properly. Hope that's it

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Old 05-09-2014, 01:43 PM   #1950
SteelB12
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Well, that didn't work....

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