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Old 08-25-2014, 02:35 PM   #706
AZ Air Hd
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Andy, good reply & perspective. Thnx!
Guess I'm missing my CL450 from the '70s.
Ric. in Arizona
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:15 PM   #707
pilot
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Originally Posted by pyoungbl View Post
Hey Pilot, did you get your forks upgraded? If so, what's the verdict? Exactly what was done?

I put 100 miles on mine yesterday and think that I have finally gotten the suspension dialed in for my weight and riding.

Peter Y.
I think so. Hard to tell for sure since the shocks are still harsh. We reset the emulator to one turn out with blue springs and drilled one additional hole in the valve piece. There were two holes, now there are three. I may eventually drill the fourth.

I left my stock shocks with the suspension guy to play with. He's going to see if there is anything he can do with them. After his preliminary examination, he thinks they may be rebuild-able. If they are he may be able to revalve them.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:13 PM   #708
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Pilot, I drilled two holes in the metering rod and two in the emulator. The goal is to get the metering rod totally out of the equation so that all metering is being done by the emulator.

Peter Y.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:34 PM   #709
Pokeyjoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyoungbl View Post
Pilot, I drilled two holes in the metering rod and two in the emulator. The goal is to get the metering rod totally out of the equation so that all metering is being done by the emulator.

Peter Y.
That's what I did on mine, too. If you don't, you'll be over damped.
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:15 AM   #710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyoungbl View Post
Pilot, I drilled two holes in the metering rod and two in the emulator. The goal is to get the metering rod totally out of the equation so that all metering is being done by the emulator.

Peter Y.
He did that when he installed the emulators. The holes I'm talking about are in the little brass piece that is under the spring in the emulator. Two holes are drilled, two are started. He drilled out one of the started holes. That acts as a bypass for the little bumps and makes the ride a little nicer. I may still drill the second started hole.

I'll wait until he can revalve the stock shocks, if possible. He's been working on shocks and forks for a long time. He says the shock is a gas filled shock, so he has to drill a hole in the shock to let out the gas so he can take it apart. If it works, he will install a shrader (sp) valve to refill after the valve is changed.

If all this works out, I will part with the Hagons I have on the bike now. It would be pretty cool if the stock shocks can be resprung and revalved.
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:46 AM   #711
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mods to the emulator

For those who are not sure about the emulator part Pilot and I have drilled out, here's the part:

It comes with two holes drilled, I drilled two more holes where you can see dimples already in place.
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Old 08-26-2014, 11:29 AM   #712
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pyoungbl View Post
For those who are not sure about the emulator part Pilot and I have drilled out, here's the part:

It comes with two holes drilled, I drilled two more holes where you can see dimples already in place.
Yep, that's the piece. If my suspension guy gets good results with my shocks, I want him to post in Vendors. I'm pretty sure he could get a ton of shock work just with V7s.
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:31 PM   #713
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Upgrading the shocks

I understand that much of the guts of emulsion shocks is very similar between the cheapo to super expensive. In other words, it should be possible to take the OEM shock apart and reassemble with higher quality shim stack....maybe better seals too...and not break the bank. You would still be stuck with non adjustable shocks but they would dampen much better.

Peter Y.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:05 PM   #714
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Well. I have one!! Drove 3 1/2 hours each way to pick it up.

Gave it a look and a little loop in the parking lot, loaded it up in my truck and drove 3 1/2 hours home.

It's late but I couldn't resist at least going around the block.

The damned right front turn signal is not working. Swapped bulbs with the other side and it's not the bulb. Thought maybe the wires were reversed, but that's not it either. Don't know what to check next. Not driving another 7 hours.

Maybe the cheap light itself is bad. I'll swap the lights in the morning and try to narrow it down.

I really don't want to have to take off the tank and chase wires on a brand new bike.

I blame myself for not being more thorough before I left. I was excited and wanted to get it home.

Happy and disappointed.

.
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Old 08-26-2014, 10:07 PM   #715
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Old 08-27-2014, 12:16 AM   #716
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DolphinJohn View Post
The damned right front turn signal is not working. Swapped bulbs with the other side and it's not the bulb. Thought maybe the wires were reversed, but that's not it either. Don't know what to check next. Not driving another 7 hours.

Maybe the cheap light itself is bad. I'll swap the lights in the morning and try to narrow it down.

I really don't want to have to take off the tank and chase wires on a brand new bike.

I blame myself for not being more thorough before I left. I was excited and wanted to get it home.

Happy and disappointed.

.
More likely caused by a loose connector - check the bundle of wires just behind the headlight shell - one of the smaller connectors.
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Old 08-27-2014, 04:56 AM   #717
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DolphinJohn View Post
Well. I have one!! Drove 3 1/2 hours each way to pick it up.

Gave it a look and a little loop in the parking lot, loaded it up in my truck and drove 3 1/2 hours home.

It's late but I couldn't resist at least going around the block.

The damned right front turn signal is not working. Swapped bulbs with the other side and it's not the bulb. Thought maybe the wires were reversed, but that's not it either. Don't know what to check next. Not driving another 7 hours.

Maybe the cheap light itself is bad. I'll swap the lights in the morning and try to narrow it down.

I really don't want to have to take off the tank and chase wires on a brand new bike.

I blame myself for not being more thorough before I left. I was excited and wanted to get it home.

Happy and disappointed.

.
Point of clarification - with incandescent bulbs the filament doesn't care which way the electricity flows. Reversing the connectors shouldn't make a difference. You have a loose connection somewhere that should be easy to find.

Look at it this way - you got the whole Italian experience, and now you've paid your dues to the Italian electrical gods
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:28 AM   #718
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I guess no one told you that when you buy a Guzzi, you become you own service department. The good news is it is really easy to work on. There is a ton of information out there and lots of helpful owners willing to help.

Don't be disappointed, I had an issue with a fuel line connector when I got mine. Curvy tried to burn it up, or so the story goes. Once I figured out how to operate the connectors, all was fine.

You would miss the whole Guzzi experience if the bike was perfect out of the box.

One more thing. When checking the oil, crank on that oil stick or it will back itself out while riding, spewing oil all over the left side of the bike. And your boot. Just a little snug up with pliers to get it tight.
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Old 08-27-2014, 06:49 AM   #719
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That black stone sure does look good.
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Old 08-27-2014, 10:41 AM   #720
DolphinJohn
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Got the turn signal working. As a bonus, I now know how to remove the tank! (ok, only lifted it up a bit).

A wire pulled out of the connector. Pretty tight, not a lot of slack in that wire. I tried to slacken it the best I could.

Another question. The manual says there's a cold start lever but I don't see anything on the bike.

Is there a "choke" for these?

.
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