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Old 02-28-2007, 02:16 PM   #31
Rapid Dog
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ya

roger that...if I gets a chance I'll hack a chunk via my CNC man...right now he's draggin' his feet

PM'd ya
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:26 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
Sent John the Technical drawing for the Nissin adapter that I machined...... also available to who ever is interested... no cost! Well, I guess the old "you will owe me a beer" thing would technically be in play if you want a copy
Thanks Solo,

I've just had a quick look at what I consider to be the critical dimensions, and our sketches seem to be within a gnats whisker of each other, which is reassuring

If you forget about the blind or through holes, and recess for the cap screw, it seems that the only real difference between the two is that you would owe Solo a pint because his dims are imperial, and you would owe me a half a litre, ‘cos my dims are metric.

However, as a result of seeing Solo’s sketch, I am going to make my drawing look a little more like a mechanical engineers sketch, compared with my structural engineers sketch.

Cheers,

John
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Old 02-28-2007, 05:46 PM   #33
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My original skcetch was chicken scratch on paper some other advrider (wracking my brain now) turned it into the beautiful pdf you have in your hands, can't take credit for it I'm afraid!
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Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 03-01-2007, 05:21 AM   #34
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Brembo do a HH pad for these calipers , and they work really well .

And if you have a 15 mm master cylinder a swap to a 13mm will give a bit more clamping force.

Between them these mods will give around 45% more braking power than onganic pads with a 15 mm MC , and give a lot of bang for you buck if you can find a cheap MCor have yours sleeved down cheaply.
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:46 AM   #35
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Not sure if I should hijack this thread, or the one where this photo came from, or start a new thread, but this seemed appropriate...

Does anyone know anything about the dual disc setup on the PD in the foreground?

discs look OEM, so do the calipers.. was the left leg replaced with a second right leg to get the caliper lugs, and a second disc spaced in somehow?
It looks like a European party. Switzerland?
this seems like it may not be cheapest solution, but a pretty good one.
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:10 AM   #36
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I belive that what you see there is a kit made by one of the many Euro BMW aftermarket suppliers....

I doubt it would be the cheapest solution, as my Nissin conversion ran $90 and I do have two-finger braking where I can lock the front wheel...
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Originally Posted by Stagehand
your bike is suitably dirty. Well done.
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:17 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
My original skcetch was chicken scratch on paper some other advrider (wracking my brain now) turned it into the beautiful pdf you have in your hands, can't take credit for it I'm afraid!
I might have had something to do with the actual CAD drawing. But, I vaguely recall that there was something not right about it. Recessing a cap screw, as mentioned? Dunno, forgot. Need someone to use the dwg and figure out the details.

I personally never did the nissin caliper thing because I run TKC80's, and it's not hard to lock up the front even on dry pavement. Maybe I have good pads in my stock caliper.

Cheers -
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Old 03-02-2007, 10:35 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
Does anyone know anything about the dual disc setup on the PD in the foreground?
discs look OEM, so do the calipers.. was the left leg replaced with a second right leg to get the caliper lugs, and a second disc spaced in somehow?
It looks like a European party. Switzerland?
this seems like it may not be cheapest solution, but a pretty good one.
The picture has been taken at the HPN-Forum Treffen 2006 in Switzerland. I haven't been there myself, but the guy in the foreground is my very good friend Chris and furthermore I did a lot of wrenching on four of the bikes shown in the picture.

Here you can find a How-To about the dual disc setup.

My current setup





Regards

Bernd
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Old 03-02-2007, 10:58 AM   #39
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Thanks very much!

I like it alot.
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Old 03-02-2007, 06:10 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLO LOBO
I doubt it would be the cheapest solution, as my Nissin conversion ran $90 and I do have two-finger braking where I can lock the front wheel...

hi. what is the nissin conversion? can you kindly post a link where i can see it? $90 sounds very reasonable. thanks.
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Old 03-02-2007, 06:18 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opposedcyljunkie
hi. what is the nissin conversion? can you kindly post a link where i can see it? $90 sounds very reasonable. thanks.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...sin+conversion
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Old 03-02-2007, 06:52 PM   #42
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thanks!
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Old 03-02-2007, 06:53 PM   #43
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Old 04-01-2007, 02:12 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lornce
This may be old news to some, but I just hung a 4-pot Brembo caliper from my 1150GS's carcass onto the GS/PD. Had to remove 0.125" or 1/8" from the mounting bosses to align the caliper with the R100's rotor.

Took it to my favourite elfen Croatian machinist to have it milled nicely and he showed me around his shop apologising in his delightfuly accented voice he was sorry but he was just too busy and "how am I ever going to retire and abandon my customers" and etc. It was a grand performance.

So I took it to a buddy's place (we had to share a beer or two and watch Pedrosa make Hayden look silly in a taped Quatar MotoGP race, anyway ) and five minutes with his pedestal grinder got me to within 0.020" of my target. Finished it at home in the vice with a file. If you're careful and patient you can work to remarkable tolerances with a hand file. Not that remarkable tolerances are required for this job. But I digress...
"BUT DO THEY BRAKE BETTER?"

Quote:
Originally Posted by lornce

Not a silly question, Jason. Haven't actually been for a ride yet. It's 4C and raining and I don't want to try it badly enough to suit up for that. Theoretically it ought to work, though.

The larger total piston area of the 4-pot caliper will provide greater resultant force at the pads with lighter, more progressive action at the lever - ie: greater lever travel.

This part bears up in practice: The stock GS has a hard, "wooden" feel to the front brake lever. The stocker hits the "pressure point" and stops dead. In comparison, with the 4-pot caliper the lever feels softer and the "pressure point" is felt through a broader range of lever travel. This is because the larger 4-pot caliper requires the m/c to move more fluid to drive it through it's braking stroke.

Creating hydraulic pressure is all about piston area ratios. The greater the difference in area between slave (caliper) and master cylinder, the greater the resultant preasure. Applied pressure is multiplied by the ratio of the areas of the master and slave cylinders.

Braking force is the product of that created pressure times the area of the caliper's pistons. (divided in half if caliper pistons oppose one another).

I hope I helped it make sense. It's easier to "see it" in your head than it is to articulate.

everytime i feel like the PD's brake suck, I just ride the R60 around the block. It produces an instantly noticeable better feel and braking power in the R100's brakes.



that looks like a pretty simple swap. I hate the thought of removing material from such sensitive areas, though... stock R100 brembos are 2-pot? Is that one pot from each side- meaning 1 in-board and 1 outboard?
Did you keep the fork assembled to do the machining? Sounds like no- you mention a vice.

ok-- regarding keeping a caliper centered on a disc-- Can the caliper pistons be at differing degrees of extention? I mean: can one piston be farther out then the other, and the thing still operate? It seems like it would, once the fluid takes up the space behind it. Shouldnt matter, I think. reason i'm asking is- as long as there is enough piston travel, could you keep an uncentered caliper and Not remove mounting boss material?
As long as both sides of the caliper shared a resevoir, they shoud both feel the same force from the master cylinder.
I'm picturing just room enough for one pad to fit between a closed piston and the disc on one side, and the other piston being opened a few mils?
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Old 04-01-2007, 02:32 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stagehand
that looks like a pretty simple swap. I hate the thought of removing material from such sensitive areas, though... stock R100 brembos are 2-pot? Is that one pot from each side- meaning 1 in-board and 1 outboard?
Did you keep the fork assembled to do the machining? Sounds like no- you mention a vice.

ok-- regarding keeping a caliper centered on a disc-- Can the caliper pistons be at differing degrees of extention? I mean: can one piston be farther out then the other, and the thing still operate? It seems like it would, once the fluid takes up the space behind it. Shouldnt matter, I think. reason i'm asking is- as long as there is enough piston travel, could you keep an uncentered caliper and Not remove mounting boss material?
As long as both sides of the caliper shared a resevoir, they shoud both feel the same force from the master cylinder.
I'm picturing just room enough for one pad to fit between a closed piston and the disc on one side, and the other piston being opened a few mils?
material was removed from the caliper boss's, not the forks. the forks didn't leave the bike.

non-centred caliper will work but eventually you will have problems as pistons on one side are overextended from the bore and possibly damage their seal and cause corrosion damage. ie: they're not designed to extend asymetrically.
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