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Old 09-23-2008, 12:52 PM   #76
losiu OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seikkailu_R
7mm and 6mm is little thick for spring (~1/4 inch)...
Is 0,7mm and 0,6mm correct?

And yes, 50 x 70 x 6 is size in mm (collar not included).
Sorry if It was unclear before. I edited my post to make things clear.
I meant the thickness of the whole O-ring seal :)
[the thickness of the spring itself you can more or less read on the caliper in one of the pics in the 1st post]

L.
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:36 PM   #77
dentvet
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Check this out. Here is my sprag assy., also the spring I chopped short to tighten its grip. Its shown in its linear form before I coiled it back onto itself, notice the amputated portion off to the side. I re-installed this spring and the starter works great.

The thickness of the OEM spring is 1.4 mm.

Next to the sprag is the garter spring from a seal that was too thick; 2mm.

What you are looking for is a garter spring from an oil seal made for a 50 mm shaft of some sort, that is the critical diameter number. That's close to 2 inches for us non-metric folks.

What sort of things have 50 mm shafts?

-50mm white power fork dust shields.
somebody measure the garter thickness on these for us, I bet any brand of motorcycle fork seal in the 45-50mm diameter might work

-2 inch axle bearing seals for cars or trailers

I'm sure others can think of other possibilities and examples. I only bring this up for the poor guy who is stuck with a glassy-eyed parts dealer that says they can't get the magical SKF 19993. Armed with this knowledge and a vernier caliper you can start rummaging through seal boxes and find one that will work for your poor disabled bike. Soon we will have multiple known options for even those across the pond and down under. The guessing will be over.

dentvet screwed with this post 09-23-2008 at 03:42 PM
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Old 10-17-2008, 08:56 PM   #78
braaap!
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thanks all you Guys, in particular Losiu and dentvet!

Replaced the spragg clutch today after picking up a magneto puller from the local dealer ($70 and no 6 week backorder.... )

Rattle gunned the nut of the end of the crank, popped on the puller and presto... the little 'spragg bits' in the clutch assy were visibly worn and the spring very sloppy.
Inner surface of the freewheel hub was marked but still smooth, could see chatter marks left by the spraggs as they grip and slip as the spring starts to lose tension....

BTW warewolf, you mentioned.. "Anyway, now I am up for a new starter clutch, probably new starter gear wheel as the hub outer surface that engages the starter clutch looks very worn. I presume they are supposed to be flat, not having a trench in the hub, reminiscent of a worn brake disc? Hopefully not a new flywheel hub, too. ''
There's supposed to be a small lip at the outer edge of the inner (drive) surface on the freewheel (creates the shallow trench).... the spragg circlip snaps in behind this... making sure it's fully seated.... see Losiu's pic below, in the earlier post....

Out with the old, in with new, 10 minutes reassembly an' it starts like new, off the button - Hooray!

If anybody in Aus needs a (loaner) magneto puller, pm me.

cheers!
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Old 10-19-2008, 01:15 PM   #79
warewolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braaap!
BTW warewolf, you mentioned.. "Anyway, now I am up for a new starter clutch, probably new starter gear wheel as the hub outer surface that engages the starter clutch looks very worn. I presume they are supposed to be flat, not having a trench in the hub, reminiscent of a worn brake disc? Hopefully not a new flywheel hub, too. ''
There's supposed to be a small lip at the outer edge of the inner (drive) surface on the freewheel (creates the shallow trench).... the spragg circlip snaps in behind this... making sure it's fully seated.... see Losiu's pic below, in the earlier post....
Not sure we are talking about the same bit.

The clutch inner grabs the outer surface of the extended hub on the gear wheel driven by the starter motor. It's the gear's outer surface that is worn. Part no. 6 in the pic; the hub extends away from the viewer so is not obvious, but it slides inside the starter clutch part no. 7. My bike was missing the needle bearing, part no. 5.

btw I don't recall a lip as you describe on the flywheel hub, but I will check for it when I replace the starter clutch.

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Old 10-19-2008, 02:57 PM   #80
braaap!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolf
Not sure we are talking about the same bit.

... btw I don't recall a lip as you describe on the flywheel hub, but I will check for it when I replace the starter clutch...
umm yeah... mis-comprehension on my part hope your fix is not too painful...
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Old 10-20-2008, 12:57 PM   #81
meat popsicle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warewolf
.... My bike was missing the needle bearing, part no. 5.

...

did you consider asking KTM Australia WTF about the missing part? I would think they might cover a Mattighofen Mistake.
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Old 10-21-2008, 05:08 PM   #82
warewolf
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I should ask, I suppose. I'd never prove it though, so no chance of forcing the issue. If they don't take my word for it, it'd cost me more to convince them than to sort it myself. Lucky them.

If a dealer found the problem, they'd likely go in to bat on my behalf. Would be a more convincing case.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
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Old 10-21-2008, 08:19 PM   #83
meat popsicle
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Well, you could tell them without asking for anything, so hangover Hans might get a bitch-slap and think twice before half-arsing an assembly job again. Shit happens, and nobody's perfect, but feedback is a good way of making sure it is less likely to happen again. And again, and again...
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:51 PM   #84
pkrasko
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What a hell of a suprise....

My starter clutch went and I finally found the time today to take a quick look at what might be happening.

I took off the engine casing which hold the stator and found bolt heads stuck to the fly wheel mixed in with metal chips and pieces of the copper coil on the stator.

...WOW!

Here is a pretty good image of what it looks like: http://www.schemingsolutions.com/ktm.jpg

Anyways...I need to take the flywheel off the see the rest of the damage.
Anyone know the size of the nut on the crankshaft?

I also don't have air tools here so any thoughts on keeping the crank from spinning to get the crank nut off?

I already have the puller which i found online for $25. I'm just hoping there might be an easier solution (rather than air gun or KTM OEM spanner tool).

Thoughts?

So it looks like I need a new stator, new flywheel (as its really chewed up), and probably a new hub which holds the starter clutch. From what I could see all the bolts that held the hub to the flywheel broke off.
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Old 10-25-2008, 08:53 PM   #85
dancolin
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I used one of those cheap electric impact guns.. worked great!
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Old 10-25-2008, 11:49 PM   #86
pkrasko
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Crank shaft nut size

Thanks - that should work and will always come in handy later on...unlike the ktm flywheel spanner tool.

Do you happen to remember the size of the crank shaft nut? I know its probably larger than what I have (21mm) and will need to pick up a socket.
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:58 AM   #87
braaap!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkrasko
Thanks - that should work and will always come in handy later on...unlike the ktm flywheel spanner tool.

Do you happen to remember the size of the crank shaft nut? I know its probably larger than what I have (21mm) and will need to pick up a socket.
27 or 28mm!

shit man! did that just go BANG! or what?
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Old 10-26-2008, 01:22 AM   #88
warewolf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkrasko
Do you happen to remember the size of the crank shaft nut?
24 or 27mm, I'd say the latter, can check my notes tomorrow. Rear axle nut is 27mm, so is the steering stem nut. I don't own a 28mm socket; the 24mm was bought for a DR-Z250 axle but might fit stuff on the KTM.

It is left hand thread, too.
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KTM LC4 640 Question? Check here first --> KTM LC4 (640) Index Thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:31 AM   #89
pkrasko
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Bluhduh Thanks again

I'll grab a set of sockets and make sure it includes 22mm+

It went clank clank clank right when I pulled off the highway.
Turned the bike off, check around...attempted to use the electric start and bizzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz just spun freely. Engine didn't turn over at all.

The bub which is bolted to the flywheel is completely loose. All 6 bolts either backed out or shattered off. Lock-tite anyone??
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Old 12-22-2008, 05:46 AM   #90
greendog75
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Pissed Kick Starter problems

the thread describes the starter clutch slipping but has anybody had the problem where the kick start is turning the whole starter motor making it impossible to start the bike. This has happened to me twice when I've run the battery flat on a snarly hill or water crossing, I've gone to kick start but there is a whirling sound and the motor turns very slowly. I can only think that the starter clutch won't disengage and the starter motor is turing. If I roll start the bike or charge the battery and start it, then this frees up the kick start? any ideas?

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