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Old 11-20-2008, 11:35 AM   #91
Laromonster
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Joined: Jun 2004
Location: Sviland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaelicDog
1) When working under a car ALWAYS disconnect the battery.
Had a friend working on his 69 Camaro and crossed the starter connections
and it lurched forward falling off the ramps. It pinned his head between the
frame and ramp. He was there for over an hour before his parents returned.
The wall was covered in blood where he was screaming for help. He
survived. He has a nice plate in his head. He is now nicknamed lumpy.
Jeebus

In my youth i was replacing the front tire of a VW beetle that was on a scissor jack.
The wheel had attached itself to the hub so i grabbed the wheel at the six and twelve o'clock position and rocked... it off the jack

My hand was caught between the tire and front fender for more than two hours before someone heard my screams for help.

Grab a stuck wheel at the nine and three o'clock position before yanking on it.
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Old 11-20-2008, 01:47 PM   #92
MiamiMotorcyclist
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This is my new favorite thread- keep 'em comming.
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Old 11-20-2008, 03:06 PM   #93
Bumblebee-TGL
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Quote:
Remove drawbar wrench before turning on vertical milling machine spindle.
Hmmm. Stupid machine shop tricks...with vertical instantaneous learning curves...

Even with it set as slow as it will go and being cautious, do not drill a 1-1/4 hole through an 8" thick 50lb block of lead with a drill press.

The image of that block of lead tearing itself loose from the hold down clamps and swinging around on the bit then snapping the bit and sailing past my shoulder at a bazillion mph with part of the drill bit jammed in it and hitting the opposite wall of the shop before falling to the floor is permanently etched on the inside of my skull. Lesson of the day: The first several inches are fine but after that, it seems that cooling lead tends to contract and will grab onto a drill bit and won't let go.
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Old 11-20-2008, 05:21 PM   #94
dvgonzo
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Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
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Machine shop antics

I have a plethora of stupid mahine shop stunts, (comes from living in one for over 30 years!) fortunately, most of them are Not from me as I was merely a wintess. For most of them anyway......

One of my favorites was from when a buddy and I used to work at General Electric in Albuquerque. It was and still is a pretty big plant. Huge high bays with 20 ton cranes that have 10 ton auxillaries on the same platform.

My buddy Paul who I had just met that week when I went onto swing shift was changing out a lathe chuck that probably weighed around 70 pounds or so. You put an eye bolt into the chuck, put a nylon (about 2 ton) strap through the eyebolt, attach both ends to the crane hook, raise it with the crane, swing it into place on the lathe, and tighten the cam lock fasteners to hold it fast. Then remove the hardware and you are ready to go.

Well the break bell rang so we went on break. Came back and as Paul was talking to another worker and distracted he proceeded to raise the hook on the crane so he could drive it back to it's parking space at the end of the high bay. Had he been watching what he was doing instead of still shootin' the bull he probably would have noticed he had not disconnected the strap from the crane.

There was this bizarre sound like a giant rubber band snapping taut and then vibrating as it stretched and got REALLY tight followed by this real LOUD BAM, followed by boingy, boingy. Paul had yanked one end of the lathe, (about a 6 foot bed 3000 pound turret lathe) clean out of the concrete and it was hanging from the crane with the electrical conduit hanging off the end and two chunks of concrete about the size of a fist still attached to the bottom of the lathe where they had pulled out of the concrete.

Paul thinking fast dropped it back down but it would not go back to a horizontal position as the two chunks of concrete would not go back down into their respective holes. I can STILL see Paul climbing up onto that lathe and jumping up and down on it trying to get it back level.

The other workers and I about died from laughing, and fortunately they did not fire him but did have to have a crew come in next day to re-set and level the machine.
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Old 11-20-2008, 05:56 PM   #95
carternick79
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If inflating an aircraft tire or any tire for that matter make sure you set your regulator to the psi you need before servicing. If you over service it the wheel NOT THE TIRE can shatter and it can and will kill you given the chance. Seen it happen.
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Old 11-21-2008, 05:35 AM   #96
dirty_sanchez
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Don't ever weld wearing only a pair of shorts.

Dirty
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Old 11-21-2008, 06:09 AM   #97
bomber60015
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A saying my Grandpa taught me while demonstrating how to loosen a frozen fastener with a torch . . . . "just cause it ain't red doesn't mean it ain't hot."

break break

Do not completely disassemble the carbs on your vertical twin.

In the dark.

Under an overpass.

In the pissing down rain.

While you're monstered (before Nancy Reagan taught me to just say no).

Until you check for actual fuel in the fuel containment vessel.

Short version, change the petcock setting from RES to ON after fueling.
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Old 11-21-2008, 07:37 AM   #98
Lee Keller King
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Not a stupid shop trip, but:


Never straddle a hot Kawasaki H1 in tennis shoes and let the pipe rest against your ankle.

ATGATT!

Lee
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2001 Yamaha VStar 650 ("Vera")
1970 Kawasaki H1 (500cc 2-stroke triple) (long gone but not forgotten)
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Old 11-21-2008, 03:30 PM   #99
KLboxeR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carternick79
If inflating an aircraft tire or any tire for that matter make sure you set your regulator to the psi you need before servicing. If you over service it the wheel NOT THE TIRE can shatter and it can and will kill you given the chance. Seen it happen.


And always have a cage or barrier between you and a tire when seating the bead. Watched a guy get his hand severed by an ATV tire bead that was defective and cut loose at a whopping 30 psi
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Old 11-21-2008, 09:23 PM   #100
carternick79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLboxeR


And always have a cage or barrier between you and a tire when seating the bead. Watched a guy get his hand severed by an ATV tire bead that was defective and cut loose at a whopping 30 psi
Mine was more at like 2600 psi. Well it actually never got up that high but that is what the regulator was set at cause the guy before him never removed the setting and my friend never checked to make sure it was set low enough. Needless to say he learned his lesson after it blew half and I do mean half of his arse off along with 4 months in the hospital and numerous surgeries. His name is half-ass for the rest of his life...
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:58 AM   #101
Lee Keller King
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When the previous owner says that his mechanic says your bike may need a new alternator rotor in the future, pay attention! And don't buy a new regulator/rectifier until you are sure that is the bad part!






Honest sellers make it harder to find someone to blame outside of your own dumbass self.

Lee
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...or something like that.

---------------------------------------------
1982 Honda Nighthawk CB650SC ("Bikey")
2001 Yamaha VStar 650 ("Vera")
1970 Kawasaki H1 (500cc 2-stroke triple) (long gone but not forgotten)
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Old 11-28-2008, 07:40 AM   #102
Kenny M.
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Location: Santa Rosa, Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chains45
Do NOT put the bike up on the center stand, start it up, 1st gear, oil the chain, then use a rag wrapped around your fingers to makes sure the oil is well spread. When the rag gets caught in the chain and pulls your fingers in-between the chain and rear sprocket the pain is immediate and intense.

Still have scars on my right hand to remind me of my stupidity from 1969. Worst pain I have ever felt. And I have had a kidney stone.
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Old 11-28-2008, 07:19 PM   #103
fritzcoinc
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When re-installing tailgate on your pick up truck, attach the cables to the bed before droping the gate.
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Old 11-29-2008, 11:37 AM   #104
murgatroid42
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Parking lots are not empty. Look behind you when backing up so you don't hit the light pole in the middle of the lot.
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Old 11-29-2008, 12:09 PM   #105
Yossarian™
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When installing fork speed bleeders on the top of your forks, and using the manufacturer-supplied aluminum tool to tighten them down, attach a string to the hole on the tool so when you drop it behind the radiator it doesn't get permanently lodged & lost until you remove all the bodywork and tank to get to it.
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