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Old 01-14-2009, 10:10 AM   #19756
AWM
Beard Bros Racing
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Your Mom's house
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vnp514
Ok,

Since we've got the snow, ice, cold, etc. still going on here, I figured I'd check my NSU on my 2002 DR. Before I do, here is what I've learned doing some searching around:

You can lay the bike on it's left side to do this procedure.

The side cover bolts are different sizes-pay attention here.

The bottom bolt is easy to get out, the upper bolt is a booger to get out. Might be able to use a box end wrench and attach a screw driver bit of the proper size to get to it.

I plan on just taking mine out for piece of mind. The only thing I won't have is the green neutral light-right??

Has anyone done any pics on this job from start to finish? Any other pointers before I start this task?

Thanks

Pete
See what you can find here!

http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:24 AM   #19757
LukasM
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Joined: Nov 2006
Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,334
Quote:
Originally Posted by vnp514
Ok,

Since we've got the snow, ice, cold, etc. still going on here, I figured I'd check my NSU on my 2002 DR. Before I do, here is what I've learned doing some searching around:

You can lay the bike on it's left side to do this procedure.

The side cover bolts are different sizes-pay attention here.

The bottom bolt is easy to get out, the upper bolt is a booger to get out. Might be able to use a box end wrench and attach a screw driver bit of the proper size to get to it.

I plan on just taking mine out for piece of mind. The only thing I won't have is the green neutral light-right??

Has anyone done any pics on this job from start to finish? Any other pointers before I start this task?

Thanks

Pete
When you lay the bike on the side, either put something under the frame near the shift lever or take it off. Otherwise it will bend as it contacts the floor.



Use a piece of cardboard or similar and stick the screws in it using the layout of the clutch cover:



I recommend taking off the foot peg and rear MC so you can swing the brake pedal out of the way. Otherwise you have to take the pin out of the pedal pivot which is a bit more complicated.




If you can't access the upper NSU screw you can take the clutch off easily even if you don't have the special tool. Just put the bike in gear and block the rear wheel (I used a broom) when you take off the nut.

The rest is straight forward, get back to us if you have any questions.

Lukas
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:32 AM   #19758
miniroot
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
Use a piece of cardboard or similar and stick the screws in it using the layout of the clutch cover:

Neat! Both in the "good idea" sense and the "anally retentive" sense.

;)

I usually just lay them out in order on the floor. Then, I usually forget and boot them across the floor. And then I usually spend fifteen minutes swearing.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:39 AM   #19759
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miniroot
Neat! Both in the "good idea" sense and the "anally retentive" sense.

;)

I usually just lay them out in order on the floor. Then, I usually forget and boot them across the floor. And then I usually spend fifteen minutes swearing.
Yeah, I used to laugh at tips like that as well. Then I realized what I mess I am and that things tend to get in the way. I took that picture 3 weeks ago and the bike is still in pieces. Found out my clutch hub is shot so I'm still looking for a cheap used one.

So more like 15 minutes of swearing and then a few hours trying to figure out what goes where. And in the end there are still a couple of screws left over...
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:22 PM   #19760
McB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
.

And in the end there are still a couple of screws left over...
I usually count those as 'weight reduction measures'.
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Old 01-14-2009, 01:45 PM   #19761
miniroot
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
Yeah, I used to laugh at tips like that as well. Then I realized what I mess I am and that things tend to get in the way. I took that picture 3 weeks ago and the bike is still in pieces.
Aye, that's the rub. My workshop was a no-go area for a month while I waited for parts to complete my DR200 rebuild. I had the engine laid out in "chronological order", anti-clockwise around the room, on all but six square feet of workbench.

My father used to take photos as he tore an engine down. That was back in the days of real celluloid film, as well. With digital photography so cheap, I don't know why I didn't do the same.

But that really is a good tip, with the cardboard.

Quote:
Found out my clutch hub is shot so I'm still looking for a cheap used one.
Are DR650 hubs that expensive? I spent months fannying around trying to avoid the cost of a new DR200 hub, possibly at the expense of the engine (see above) and certainly at the expense of my blood pressure. Turned out that a new hub was something stupid like NZ$50. I spent more money on replacement friction plates.
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:02 PM   #19762
Rusty Rocket
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Use a piece of cardboard or similar and stick the screws in it using the layout of the clutch cover:



A picture is worth a thousand words. I was going to try to describe this exact tip in words. Thanks you saved me from typing alot.

I have done this exact same thing for years. I still have a piece of cardboard lying on my garage floor from when I last checked the NSU screws.

BTW, just got my RaceTech .46 springs for the forks from Cogent. (NC Rick)
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:09 PM   #19763
vnp514
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Lukas,

Thanks a bunch. Some great tips AND PICS!!

Pete





Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
When you lay the bike on the side, either put something under the frame near the shift lever or take it off. Otherwise it will bend as it contacts the floor.



Use a piece of cardboard or similar and stick the screws in it using the layout of the clutch cover:



I recommend taking off the foot peg and rear MC so you can swing the brake pedal out of the way. Otherwise you have to take the pin out of the pedal pivot which is a bit more complicated.




If you can't access the upper NSU screw you can take the clutch off easily even if you don't have the special tool. Just put the bike in gear and block the rear wheel (I used a broom) when you take off the nut.

The rest is straight forward, get back to us if you have any questions.

Lukas
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Old 01-14-2009, 02:51 PM   #19764
Watson
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Location: Grayson, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awm
.....My point was that i have seen bikes run'n way to lean burn holes in pistons!Suzuki sells bikes that run lean to pass emissons.If you change pipes or air cleaners etc without reading the plugs for a proper fuel mixture there is a possibility of that happen'n!

....glow'n red pipes etc,is not a good thing
I wonder if anyone has taken a piston-powered aircraft approach to managing fuel/air mixture. Mixture controlled by the pilot - proper adjustments estimated and made based on rpm drop and exhaust gas temp....if my memory serves me correctly...
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:14 PM   #19765
STARSKEY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watson
I wonder if anyone has taken a piston-powered aircraft approach to managing fuel/air mixture. Mixture controlled by the pilot - proper adjustments estimated and made based on rpm drop and exhaust gas temp....if my memory serves me correctly...

It would take a new breed of DR650 rider I think. A lot of us like this bike because it's simple and doesn't have too many guages and switches and lights and dials.

Imagine doing all that watching and adjusting while bashing along down a dirt road. Too much thinking for my brain while riding. I'm lucky just to remember "bars up, tires down.....bars up, tires down.......bars up, tires down....."
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:28 PM   #19766
talbertnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
... And in the end there are still a couple of screws left over...
Glad to hear im not the only one with that problem....
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Old 01-14-2009, 03:54 PM   #19767
AndrewL
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Location: Kimberleys, Western Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watson
I wonder if anyone has taken a piston-powered aircraft approach to managing fuel/air mixture. Mixture controlled by the pilot - proper adjustments estimated and made based on rpm drop and exhaust gas temp....if my memory serves me correctly...
EGT is only good measurement for relatively static rpm and load - that is not a MC environment unless droning down a highway. EGO is the go - but you won't see them in aircraft due to the amount of lead, even in the LL stuff.
Some Bing aircraft carbs have adjustable needles, but if that particular setup were applied to a MC carb, it would be virtually unusable due to cable friction... but it can be done.
Easiest and quite possibly cheaper (if you place value on your time) solution would be fuel injection with wide band EGO and closed loop operation at low loads. No altitude problems either if done right. For the keen, Megasquirt and Microsquirt controllers are capable of doing this. Big problem is finding the power to drive the electronics and fuel pump.

Cheers
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:01 PM   #19768
Django Loco
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Location: California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McB
Dave Searle's series on the DR sucked. I let my subscription lapse after reading the last installment. Trying to follow his process was like following a rabbit through a briarpatch. He talks proudly of the modifications he made to make it more 'tourworthy', then later in the article he's not happy with what he's done and wants to try something else. Hell, it's easier getting straight, well-researched advice on an internet forum.
He installed an FMF, rejetted, lost mileage, repacked, rejetted, took the carb apart in a motel room, put foam blocks in the fuel tank and blamed them for lack of range only to announce in the next issue it was really the carb mods that did it.....
He tried a gel seat, then drilled holes in the stock seat, then added an Airhawk, then in a later article said it had the gel seat on it without explaining why he went back to it.
I wish they'd spent their money on good writing instead of colored ink.
I totally agree with you. Seems to me 'ol Dave was running in circles! Dave needs a good Editor to kick his butt and get his articles in order. It's clear he should have held off before coming to conclusions that he later had to recant on. That is just stupid.

Technical articles are very tough. I've done them. I always get help and I always do extensive testing before publishing results. Also, your testing regime has to be consistent and somewhat scientific.
(hey it's motorcycles not Titan Rockets ) But still, good data comes from long hours of testing and more testing and lots of changes.

I have met Dave several times and have ridden with him (at bike intros). Nice guy. But I must admit he was out of his depth on this. He is not, far as I know, a dirt rider and does not have a dual sport background or, for that matter a mechanical background. My guess is he didn't have any help. I'll bet he'll do better next time.

Django Loco screwed with this post 01-14-2009 at 04:38 PM
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:14 PM   #19769
Django Loco
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Location: California
Oddometer: 3,785
Quote:
Originally Posted by sw3dl1
I just removed a FMF-Q pipe from a 2002 DR650 that had been rejetted with a Dyna-Jet kit. 160 main jet, I don't remember what notch the needle was on. The top of the air box had not been cut but had been drilled in 8 places and the snorkel removed.
I replaced the FMF with a stock pipe, replaced the needle with stock. Re-jetted the carb with the stock 42.5 pilot jet and went to a 145 main jet. The air-idle screw is turned out about 1 1/2 turns.
So far the bike runs perfectly and gets about 48 to 51 MPG.
With the exception of the drilled air box and 1 step richer main jet I am back to the stock configuration. It runs good, I'm going to leave it alone until it needs attention!!
Those are very good MPG numbers! I would do a plug check to see it you might be running a hair too lean. A white plug is not good. Since you still have the air box open and with much leaner jetting, you could be too lean, which over time, could burn a valve or overheat the top of the piston. The FMF pipe changes almost nothing regards mixture. Air box mods DO affect mixture and lean out mixture considerably.

Good luck!
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Old 01-14-2009, 04:21 PM   #19770
Django Loco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awm
See what you can find here!

http://dr650.wikia.com/wiki/Main_Page
No step by step on NSU repair there. Very general stuff. The real deal is HERE, on this thread ....somewhere.

Where? I have no idea!
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