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Old 01-14-2009, 04:25 PM   #19771
AWM
Beard Bros Racing
 
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Joined: Mar 2007
Location: Your Mom's house
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Watson
I wonder if anyone has taken a piston-powered aircraft approach to managing fuel/air mixture. Mixture controlled by the pilot - proper adjustments estimated and made based on rpm drop and exhaust gas temp....if my memory serves me correctly...
I know years ago someone made a adjustible main jet for an S&S carb for harleys.The main jet on those carbs are on the bottom,and it was a t-handle knob on the main.You could dial it in as you went,like an idle adjust.
I had a 52 panhead with a spark advance,and you could almost get the same result by retard'n the spark.
Or atleast i'd foul out the plugs if didn't have it set right when she warmed up.
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:13 PM   #19772
LukasM
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Location: On a RTW ride - currently Central Asia
Oddometer: 5,333
Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
No step by step on NSU repair there. Very general stuff. The real deal is HERE, on this thread ....somewhere.

Where? I have no idea!
I don't think anybody posted step by step instructions on here either. Although I do remember a blurry pic that showed the NSU.

Maybe these will help somebody anyway.

1. Unbolt everything (also the oil line) from the clutch cover. Observe the tips I posted above and swing the pedal out of the way. To remove the clutch actuating arm, you might have remove the header (my FMF is oversize and in the way). Then the cover should come off and look like this. The red arrow points to the NSU which is hidden by the clutch and the red circle is a hole that you should block with a rag so nothing falls in there. I forgot and was lucky, although you can see it in the last picture of this post.




From this angle you can see the NSU in the lower left corner:




2. If you have access to a right angle screwdriver or similar you might get the upper screw out with it. Otherwise you will have to take off the clutch. Take all the bolts out that hold the pressure plate.




3. Once you have removed them you can take off the pressure plate. You can now see the big nut. If you don't have a clutch removal tool, put the bike and gear and block the wheel so it can't turn. Bend the locking tab out of the way and take off the nut.




4. After removing the nut you can take off the clutch basket. You now have perfect access to the NSU bolts:




5. Either remove the NSU completely (you will have to cut off the cables inside the case so they still seal the opening) or loctite in the screws. I replaced them with stainless allen head bolts.




6. Check your clutch plates for wear, the specs are in the manual. Then re-assemble in reverse order. Don't let a week pass or at least take some pictures, otherwise you WILL forget the order of washer, plates etc.


Lukas
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:30 PM   #19773
Waldo308
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Location: Southern Kommiefornia
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Wisdom from STARKEY....

Quote:
Originally Posted by STARSKEY
I'm lucky just to remember "bars up, tires down.....bars up, tires down.......bars up, tires down....."
....glad to see I'm not the only one with THAT problem!

LukasM:

Thanks a million for the detailed pictures. I am right at the point where I'm either gonna hafta make a customer screwdriver or take the clutch basket out. Your info is a tremendous help. Kudos.
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Waldo308 screwed with this post 01-14-2009 at 10:21 PM
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:34 PM   #19774
McB
Joe 40 ouncer
 
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: North Slope of the Flint Hills
Oddometer: 15,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by STARSKEY
It would take a new breed of DR650 rider I think. A lot of us like this bike because it's simple and doesn't have too many guages and switches and lights and dials.

Imagine doing all that watching and adjusting while bashing along down a dirt road. Too much thinking for my brain while riding. I'm lucky just to remember "bars up, tires down.....bars up, tires down.......bars up, tires down....."
While you're there, why not a manual spark advance, too?
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Old 01-14-2009, 05:41 PM   #19775
McB
Joe 40 ouncer
 
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Joined: Apr 2005
Location: North Slope of the Flint Hills
Oddometer: 15,410
Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
Seems to me 'ol Dave was running in circles!
Thanks for the perspective. I liked what he wrote in the dual sport comparison issue about simplicity and fun; his take on the DR was a big factor in my choosing a DR over a KLR.

I was about to give him a pass and blame it on an inattentive editor, but thought "wait a minute" and grabbed a copy from the coffee table. Inside front cover: David Searle, Editor.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:56 PM   #19776
NordieBoy
Armature speller
 
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by bajadawg
All this talk of jetting and I have yet to see any dyno numbers. If I wanted that much more power I'd get a XR650 or KTM. I love my 57mpg's. I don't need a safari tank to cover 270 miles. I'll do work to the suspension and get a steering stabilizer. That'll make the bike faster off road. I'll probably get the supertrapp pipe so I can have the same back pressure as stock and drop some weight. My two cents.
Search better. The numbers are out there.
A DJ kit and pipe to me ment more bottom end and mid range.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:59 PM   #19777
NordieBoy
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Joined: Dec 2006
Location: Kiwiland
Oddometer: 7,092
Quote:
Originally Posted by napster
Nov. '08 MCN gave these #'s after installing the dynojet kit. Hp increased from 35.6 stock to 39.3, torque from 33.8 to 38.1. However mileage went from 52.5 to 42.1!!!!
Dunno about those HP numbers unless they also did the pipe, airbox etc.
Also sounds like they were running a bit too rich (165 main?).
I'm was getting about 48mpg with all the bits done.
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Old 01-14-2009, 06:59 PM   #19778
doc_ricketts
Thumper jockey
 
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Joined: Jul 2007
Location: FlaWaCo?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Django Loco
No step by step on NSU repair there. Very general stuff. The real deal is HERE, on this thread ....somewhere.

Where? I have no idea!
I am surprised, but here we go again.
1) remove clutch side housing after draining oil or laying bike on the side
2) use a right angle screwdriver and remove the NSU screws and then throw the damned thing away after step 3)
3) cut the wire to the NSU at the boss in the main housing. No need to insulate or other, just clip the darned thing close to the boss so it doesn't get wrapped in the clutch
4) replace cover and/or oil.

Now how hard is that? The NSU is like a third testicle (and on your arm), you will never miss it.
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:33 PM   #19779
Pike Bishop
Pull Down the Ponzi.
 
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Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Your Back Yard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
I don't think anybody posted step by step instructions on here either. Although I do remember a blurry pic that showed the NSU.

Maybe these will help somebody anyway.
AWESOME POST, LUCAS, THANKS!

This one's gettin' archived and squirreled away for future reference...
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Old 01-14-2009, 07:53 PM   #19780
TREE
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Location: Nova Scotia
Oddometer: 3,293
This is the plan for my NSU bolts . . . easy to wrench and then they will be lockwired.

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Old 01-14-2009, 08:43 PM   #19781
NC Rick
Cogent Dynamics Inc
 
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Location: Asheville, NC
Oddometer: 599
Nice bike Soboy! Congratulations, My first "Dual-Sport" was a new AT1-c Yamaha 125 enduro. I had so much fun with that bike. The DR650 is THE bike that takes me back to that same, un-describable feeling.

Enjoy!
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Old 01-14-2009, 09:42 PM   #19782
neepuk
Such a drag...
 
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Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Redstone, CO
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Great step-by-step on the nsu Lukas. I think I'll tackle that job tomorrow when I finish what I've started today...

A fellow inmate was kind enough to offer up his white shock spring when I mentioned in a previous post that I'd love to get rid of the remaining yellow on my bike. Thanks GTSRIG for the spring. Getting rid of the last of the yellow, and 10,000 miles on the clock gave me just enough reason to get after some maintenance.

I got started by getting the "garage" straightened up a bit and putting the bike on the stand. 75 Degrees in Santa Cruz today.... crazy hot for this time of year this far north.


Since I'll be working on the rear suspension I've decided that I'll go ahead and pull the linkage apart replace or grease the needle bearings as needed.
Started bu pulling the rear tire and the bike fell off the stand... Boom, broken windshield. Sorry, no pics other than the broken part.

Bummer. Looks like I'll be coming up with a new windshield design to go with the new headlight... Oops, I gave away a secret... Never before seen headlight on a DR coming up soon.

On with the maint... Pulled the rear wheel and shock linkage.


Next it was time to pull the battery and air box to make it easier to access the top of the rear shock. I also plan on pulling the carb for a good cleaning and re-jetting so I may as well get this out of the way...


Now pull out the last of the yellow. Sure wish I could change the color of my frame too but that's such a PITA...
Love that Cogent shock.


Next was to remove the yellow spring. The parts pile is growing...


My two favorite mods I've made to my DR. Looks better with a white spring.


Next up.... Swing arm removal and tending to the needle bearings.
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:38 PM   #19783
DocAxeYarYar
RideDualSport.com
 
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Joined: Aug 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Oddometer: 755
DR Swing arm job

Thanks for posting the pics and description of the swing arm and linkage rebuild. I have to do same to my DR pretty soon, so the virtual tag along is great!
Christian
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Old 01-14-2009, 10:59 PM   #19784
Django Loco
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Location: California
Oddometer: 3,785
Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasM
I don't think anybody posted step by step instructions on here either. Although I do remember a blurry pic that showed the NSU. Maybe these will help somebody anyway.
Lukas
Thanks SO much Lukas for taking the time to post the pics and tutorial. Looks like a lot of work but not too hard. When I do it I'll take pics. Hope mine are as clear and well lit as yours.

Cheers
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Old 01-14-2009, 11:04 PM   #19785
neepuk
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Ok, I now have the next batch of pics uploaded. All that I had left to do to the rear suspension was remove the two clips that hold the brake line to the swing arm. Then remove the main pivot bolt and off it came.

It's a grimy little bugger...

In the pic it looks rusty in there but it's actually just the color of the grease. The bearings look and feel really good, none fell out of place, and they were all still "wet" with grease.

The Swing-Arm cleaned up nicely too.
I went through each set of bearing carefully and wiped them out, cleaned them and repacked then with fresh new grease.

Lined up the ole swing arm and slipped it right back where it came from.





Gave it the up n down smoothness test.



So I got the arm all back together and had a look at the brake-pads.







Good thing I have a fresh pair laying around. These things are toast!





Fresh pads installed.



All this time went by and I had a couple lights on but it was getting hard to see... Time to turn on the night-time lighting.


Nothing like a well-lit work area. Love this warm weather....


Next item to hop to was to finish up the shock linkage... Not really as much of a puzzle as you might think if you've never done it before.



I decide to do a little test-fit of a headlight designed for my TW200. Here's how it fits. Made by a fellow inmate.









That's all I've got for tonight. More work and fun tomorrow.
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