Thanks Dis, I needed a fix! I've had a little trial and tribulation myself but nothing too terrible. Bolting my motor back together I found the rocker shaft in the rocker cover wasn't oriented correctly so I get to take the rocker cover off again to send a bolt up through the under side and follow it back out with one through the top and then seal everything back up again. I've ended up with two options for getting my exhaust welded and hopefully it will happen this weekend, I may have an aluminum diamond plate rack for the rear done up at the same time. I did find a rebuild kit for the TM 33 and most everything in the way of parts has been gathered, just a couple odds and ends left go now. Oh yeah and the license, registration and insurance which I'm a little in fear of being my budget is getting stretched thin. As a matter of fact I'm going to have some extra stuff I'll be selling off like some Tusk D Flex bark busters that have never even been mounted. I bought some cheapos I like the look of and mounting better so the turn signals will be going in them and not the D Flexers. They came with the Tusk dual sport kit which looks pretty decent for the money. I had two rear sprockets show up that didn't fit so those will be going as well. Maybe that stuff will help with the street legalization of my little DR 350. I'm getting pretty eager now!
The front wheel is a black Excel rim with a silver/gray hub from a KTM 200xc. I'm having the rear hub powder coated to match the front and having some other bits pc'd at the same time. Before. Someone (BikePilot?) mentioned he has the aluminum grab bar and how light it made his bike, ha!. Well I bought one off ebay for a DR250 and it turned out to be aluminum. It is shockingly light weight, I don't know how the back end of my bike won't float away! After. I've seen versions of this on advrider, thumpertalk and maximum-suzuki. Here is my version of 09924-84510 : Bearing installer 09924-84521 : Bearing installer 5/8" All Thread Rod with nuts and washers. That was a Moose rear wheel bearing kit that was on closeout at DennisKirk. I've been noticing a lot of DR350 stuff is on closeout at various online sites. Hope it's just seasonal and not a trend with discontinuing support for the DR350. The hub bearings and seals went in pretty easy. Time to see the WheelMaster!
This is a great thread. Makes my 1991 DR350 jealous for attention. She will be getting the Jesse aluminum BB kit when it starts to rain again.
Dropped the rear hub of the DR455 off at the Wheelmaster to build the rear wheel and had him hone the cylinder for the 350 since i got new rings. Water must have set in the cylinder for a while because there is a slight rust ring. Maury (the Wheelmaster) recommend replacing the sleeve, but I don't want to spend that much on the 350 at this time. Maybe next year I'll replace the sleeve and put in a Wiseco piston.
That isn't bad at all. I suspect a light hone would do the trick, worse case you could go to an overbore. That sleeve is really thick and can take several overbores. Definitely no need for a new sleeve.
Clayjars and BikePilot, I'm going with it. If it smokes, then it gets a bore and Wiseco piston in the winter. Thanks Wylie. Honed cylinder, new rings, new base gasket. Decarbonized 99 ebay head, new head gasket. Suzuki molly paste all over the cam, super micro thin application of high temp gasket maker. Retorque the cylinder head cover tomorrow.
Very pretty and clean engine, looks nice. Off topic: I see the bottle of "Disk Brake Quiet" on your bench. Does it work for you? I have the same bottle, but the stuff never tacks up, and stays liquid on my brake pads even overnight. Don't know if it's just a bad batch, or if this stuff is just junk. Other brands worked fine for me.
I used it on my R1100GS. I think the stuff setup, but the verdict is still out on weather it makes any difference or not.
When tearing down my 94 I found the kick stand and the frame where the kick stand attaches were chewing at each other. When I had my exhaust welded up we added some welds there I have yet to smooth out. I may do a uhmw horseshoe type kick stand to frame thing. Did you find the same? It may just be that this bike was started and parked more then most being a farmers bike.
Jesse's oversized head-pipe and the FMF Powercore 4 mid tube are the same OD, but the head-pipe wall is thicker so the ID is smaller. So my simple reasoning deduced that the head-pipe goes inside the mid-tube (coincidentally is as it should be ). It became apparent after heating the pipes up and much grunting that head-pipe was not squeezing and the mid-tube was not stretching. I ended up cutting notches in the head-pipe similar to the ones in the mid-tube. This allowed the head-pipe to squeeze down. I made sure to misaligned the notches to prevent a leak. Got the wheel back from the Wheelmaster and a new D606 and Tubliss showed up this week. I did get it together and now have a list of items needed to maintain the Tubliss setup; hand pump (for tool kit) that can pump up to 110psi, gauge (for tool kit) (or a gauge on the pump would even be sweeter) that can measure up to 110psi and a descent compressed air schrader attachment with gauge (the Kobalt one I have such a POS).
Ha! Yea, I know it's shocking, but the inner part of the Tubliss liner is like this little bicycle innertube that presses the outer part of the inner liner against the bead of the tire all the way around. And it needs to be inflated to 100 - 110psi. I could only get it up to 90psi for the picture but the tire held 15psi air (still holding it today too). I like the idea of less weight, less flats and being able to run really low pressure, but if the 110psi inner liner ends up being to high maintenance then I'll go back to tubes.
Gotcha, so it's basically an inner liner that seats the bead at 110psi, then you can run the tire at whatever pressure you want. (Right?) I'm assuming it covers the spokes on the inside of the rim too so there is no leaking there?
You don't want to replace the sleeve. It's made from a very hard Iron, and any replacement sleeve would be softer and wear faster. Also removing the sleeve, and putting in a new sleeve will cost $150. I would bore it to the next size. Everybody who bores those cylinder sleeves out to put in big bore sleeves complain about how hard the stock sleeves are.
