I loved the maxis desert it tires when they were fresh, but had terrible luck with them chunking here in az. Tried three sets, and they all did the same thing, but mostly the side lugs on the front. I now run the mx71's and have zero complaints.
Are you sure they were the DESERT IT's? I've had issues with the normal ones chunking, but never an DESERT model. Between myself and my friends we have over 45,000 KM's on them..
positive. it's the only tire i'd run for a while because i liked them so much. until i got tired of the knobs ripping off either entirely or partially before the tire was worn. i do ride on a LOT of rocks and decomposed granite. pretty much like 5 grit sand paper.
It'll run even cooler and carbon up worse without the thermostat in there. Search for the NAPA part number, it's cheap to put a new stat in it and it runs better with it.
OK, I'll do that. Thanks for the NAPA tip. Edit: Wow, that NAPA thermostat is cheap! I love when things work out like that. Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk HD
NigelC, a good habit is to smear some copperpaste/anti seize compound on a sparkplug's thread. First it'll never seize, second it conducts heat well, and thirdly it will aid in sealing-off the thread-gap from the combustion chamber. But you, rebuilding this engine, should use it at many places, as stuck bolts are a pain when dismantling an engine.
Yeah, I'll be sure to use some. I'm hoping to not have to rebuild the engine. My plan for now is to adjust the valves, rejet, change the oil and coolant, put in a new sparkplug, put in a new thermostat, and see how it all runs from there. Oh, and I obviously cleaned the air filter. It ran really well before, it was just dying at idle. We'll see, I may have to rebuild it, but hopefully not. Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2
Did you have any problems with the clutch and decompressor cables ? they are too short on my bike i have rerouted them but still not 100 % happy , are yours longer ? No problems with the throttle cables as i have the pro motion extra long set . Btw , nice job you have done there .
I was wondering if any of you guys have had issues with your throttle cables getting pinched on your Scotts steering stabilizer? I use the oil filler mount style. I may have to play around with routing, but the cables are kinda short for too much rerouting. I also run a TM40 carb, and use the cables that come with that carb setup, i think they are already +2 or something.
I had trouble with mine when I bought it last year, the throttle cables came up thru a rubber divider thingy that attaches to the Scotts mount and contacts the tank - there's an opening in between for the cables. But I had a lot of trouble with the throttle being "snatchy" from idle to the first 10% of throttle movement, made it hard to roll on the power from idle. I moved the cables to the left (out of the opening) and covered them with clear vinyl tubing to protect them from the Scott's. That helped a lot, then I bought a G2 throttle tube and it is much smoother. There is still a pull, but I can't help but think part of that is vacuum on the venturi / slide. I have an aftermarket tank, although I don't know the brand. I'll do a pic this weekend.
i think scotts sell them ... plastic thing that holds cables away from the arm and closer to the tank to stop the binding .... if you find 1 can you let me know i want 1 also
Scotts and Cleanspeed engineering sell cable routing goodies http://cleanspeedeng.com/cable_guide.htm Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
I need to buy a shop manual and was wondering if the factory Honda manual is better than the Clymer. Anyone with both?
Can't say I've seen the Clymer for the BRP, but all of my previous uses of Clymer pale in comparison to factory manuals. And Honda manuals have been some of the best I've ever seen from any factory. Get a factory manual, you won't be sorry. Or find a download for the .pdf.
