Pretty good thump! For dirt, lighting/ground (Yellow/Black/white tracer) should be a separate connector out of the mag; the 4 wires into the CDI are CDI trigger (Green/Blue) and CDI Power (Brown/White). For the early S models; the lighting/ground gets replaced by 3 Yellows for charging that go to the regulator, and a ground for the mag; and the 4 CDI wires remain the same, for a total of 8 wires out of the mag. Later S models (from the 1993 SP) and SE add another pickup coil (not sure why!) which is Yellow/Grey, and they drop the external ground, for a total of 9 wires. This actually implies 3 different types of CDI unit - I didn't go back in this thread to the long set of posts about CDIs about a year ago but wasn't sure if that ended up identifying 3 different types or not. Could even be more if Suzuki changed the functions.
Thanks for the correction. Until I read your post I always thought the dual CDI pickups where added concurrently with the e-start motor but I see that change occurred one year previous. I had assumed the dual pickups were to prevent kickbacks and subsequent damage to the e-start drive train but I guess there were other reasons. FWIW, the single pickup DR650 occasionally kicks back and Suzuki installed a "torque-limiter" to prevent damage on those bikes when they were introduced in '96. They discontinued the torque-limiter for the '98 and part of the '99 model years and there were quite a few busted engine cases as a result. In mid-99 they reinstated the torque-limiter and the parts can be retrofitted to the 98/99 models without them. Also, FWIW, a dirt model CDI will allow a DR350S model (90-92) to run just fine but does not provide a line out for the tach or neutral light. I have a spare dirt model CDI which I installed in my single-pickup S model for testing. It is plug compatible and it works so I carry it as a backup on adventure trips.
I should add a few things about the clutch.. I thought my plates may have been worn, or the basket was dragging. The bike has about 4k on it, and it was immaculate inside the cover. Clutch was well within the wear limit, and plates were fine. I did notice some wear on one thrust washer, so I replaced it and flipped the other. I had a very notchy cable so I replaced it as well. It seems some of you say that I need more slack to be sure in engages completley, while others say I need to make it tighter to get more clutch movement? :huh As soon as I get my throttle cables in I will go for a quick test ride. I was told free play at the lever should be about the thickness of a nickle.
I am good at drilling holes. I did it with a 18V hand drill on a mountain bike sprocket a few months back(probably the same metal but thinner). To get the drill bit to shave metal up i had to screw the sprocket to a wood block on the floor and put over 100 pounds of my body weight on the drill to add enough friction for it to work. You have to stop every 5 seconds and spray stuff on it to keep it from overheating and burning the drill bit tip. (old oil works too) You can run some bits in reverse on sandpaper and sharpen them some. It is tedious, dirty, and dangerous if you torque the bit it can snap in half. I am a patient guy with some garage clothes and a great sense of balance so use a drill press if you can.
Removed my front wheel and didn't pay attention to whether the tab on the speedo housing goes behind the tab on the fork, or in front of it. I seem to recall it went in front of it, but it doesn't make sens to me that would be the way it should be given the rotation of the front tire you would want the speedo housing tab to bump against the fork tab given clockwise motion when looking at this set up from the right side. No idea if the previous owner had this set up incorrectly. Which way is it?
I've had that problem because it isn't clear just by looking at it. When you're standing in front of the bike the tab on the black plastic speedo drive goes behind/under the aluminum tab on the fork
Yes, .4 to .6 of an inch my manual says. Hopefully its just the cable. Mine was acting the same way and changing the cable made it fine. I would be surprised if the clutch were worn out already at 4000 miles (unless 3000 miles were ridden with a bad cable) I'm at 10,300 miles and my clutch is fine, I've never even opened the case.
Huzzah! Picked up a vacuum pump to bleed the front brake (store didnt have the reverse bleed pump) but it did the trick. Front brake is opperational again! thanks everyone for the help. Turns out it was just air in the line afterall. Took her for a spin, feels good to be riding once more. Just needs a little adjustment and ill be satisfied. The brake pads are rubbing on the sprocket a little when the brakes not applied so gotta figure out how to get that positioned correctly. Anyone know how to go about that? Also my chain is a little loose. To tighten it, it seems like i have to loosen the axle bolt through the rear tire and just pull the wheel back. Is that correct or is there a better/proper way to go about that?
Yippee! Finally..... Yes, to tighten the chain you loosen the axle nut, and there should be two snail cam adjusters (one on either side)....use them to get approximately to the right spot then use your favourite method to complete the job. Remember that the chain should have about 1" of movement in the centre of its run *when you are on the bike*..... As to the rubbing - depends on how much but I would recommend just riding until they wear down a bit...are you sure the wheel is straight in the swingarm?
Kinda thought that might be the problem. The pads may rub a little. There is no adjustment. They are supposed to pull back a little when you release the brakes from being drawn back by the fluid return to the master cylinder and/or "knock back". Some say it doesn't happen that way but with the play in the bearings and normal wear the rotor has to push the pads back some as it turns. If yours is not returning enough to release the rotor, the piston may be sticking in the caliper. Remove the caliper and pads and push the piston back in caliper bore with some big channel lock pliers or a C-clamp. That might free the piston up some.
Rubbing is normal, but an easy method to lessen it a little if it's significant is to loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the lever to center the caliper, then while you're squeezing tighten the bolts again. Might be easier with 2 people.
I've made several posts and had many replies on fueling issues with my 94 DR350SE. I've found the problem and wanted to share my symptoms and solution in case others find it helpful: Symptoms: - slow return to idle (hanging revs) - lean popping on decel - Bike would couph and cut out immediately about 3 times until it would continue running on stone cold starts. I went through several things such as all replacing all o-rings in the carb but the issues continued. There was still a vacuum leak somewhere and MOTOLAB (I think) kept saying - something else is still wrong. This weekend I decided to start from scratch beginning with another spray test around the carb while bike was running. I found the culprit - the o-ring between the carb manifold where it mounts to the cylinder head. Substantial increase in rpm's in that area. Apparently I had never sprayed that far forward in previous tests. About 1/3 of the o-ring was hanging in the intake port, apparently never installed correctly. Replaced o-ring from Gregory Bender's kit and bike is running great now, all symptoms are gone. I had turn the idle screw back down (out) quite a bit and tuned the carb to optimum with fuel screw 2.0 turns out. I can turn idle down to 1100-1200 and the bike will still idle steady. The way things ought to be. Thanks to those who chimed in with ideas.
This has been posted here before but here it is again http://www.thumpertalk.com/wiki/_/how-to-properly-adjust-your-chain-r320 I have done the check described in the link on a couple of my DR350s and found that it gives pretty much the same result as setting the adjustment at the loose end of the factory spec with the rear wheel off the ground (suspension fully extended).
Looking to see if I can determine what is causing my hard start and similar conditions you noted. What spray did you use, what happens when the spray hits the leak?
So i've got an especially newbish question for you guys. I'm putting on the heated handlebar pads i bought awhile back and I read online somewhere that the metal bars can take awhile to heat up so it can be a good idea to insulate them, i used electrical tape. So I wrapped up the metal bars with electrical tape and then put the heat pad things and wrapped them around the tape. And I went to put the handlebars back on over it and well... they're stuck. Only can get them on like 3/4 of the way and i can't turn the throttle grip because its so tight on the handlebar. Can't get them back off either. They're 7/8". So I'm just gonna order some 1" grips and cut the 7/8" off, hopefully without cutting the heating pads. Anyways heres the question.. Are these actually 1" grips? http://www.lowbrowcustoms.com/p357/...ycle-x-grips-black-1-inch-grips/#item_reviews They say 1" but do they mean just the throttle is 1" and the left grip is regular 7/8". And in the picture it looks like there isn't a throttle grip, no little holes to put the throttle line in, but instead just two regular grips. Is it actually a throttle grip and they're not showing it in the pic? I know kinda a silly question I would assume they would send a throttle grip and a regular grip but I'm just trying to make sure, can't afford to be buying the wrong stuff right now. Also I'm just looking for some cheap, really the cheapest possible, grips that are 1" but this is the only site ive found with 1" grips?? Anyone know of some cheaper 1" grips?
Run some power through those heaters and that should free things up enough to remove the grips without slicing and dicing. Not sure why anyone would want to heat their bars instead of their grips... PNWadvRider, you may want to re-think this installation strategy.