Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

I swapped a Shinko 244 front for an MT-21 and couldn't be happier. The 244 really blew in the soft stuff at speed.

I went with a Mt-43 swap for the 244 rear.

244's are really good on the road, but not so hot off road. The MT's are really good off road, but not so hot on the asphalt.

Life is full of little trade offs.

I would rather rail in the dirt than on the asphalt with my WR . . .

Anyone using the stock pipe with a fuel programmer? PO had an FMF slip on with the stock header, FMF programmer and all the mods for AIS and exup removal plus air box flapper mod.
I ditched the FMF for the stock pipe since loud sucks!
Wow is it quiet now! Wondering if there is any gain for running modified mapping in this scenario? As mentioned the exup has been removed although the butterfly is still in the exhaust, only the servo was removed.

If that is the case then just switch to Pirelli XCMH's and call it a day. This assumes that you are not riding on rock.

I dig the xcmh's but man! The "scorpion mx extra-x" front and mt 21 rear is an awesome combo.

I'm running the power commander with the stock exhaust. the previous owner set it up with a map to match the exhaust. I've never touched it though.

I concur.

Anyone know what mapping works best with the stock exhaust?

I run 244 in the rear and MT-21 in the front. I think its a good comprimise if you are dual sporting where you have to ride some pavement and dirt. For more Hard core dirt riding, I'd go 606 all the way around.

I will try to get to the USB on mine and see what it's set at for you. It runs really well.

Thanks, that's what I was hoping to hear. I can deal with the back end sliding around, but the 244 front is not gonna work out for me.

any of you guys have the left fork guard rubbing the inside of the fork wearing on the rubber and spring clip due to the brake hose pushing the guard into it and what was your fix thanks
Rich 2014 wr250r

Thanks! That would be awesome. Are you running the exup also?

Pull the guards use a heat gun to soften plastic and form them around
A bigger tube let them cool on the tube and reinstall

Yes, totally stock muffler. Airbox also.

I have run both mt-21 and the 606's.
They both have there pros and cons they both perform great off-road
You can air them down the same I typically run f16-18psi/r18-20psi in the dirt
on the street I run f25psi/r28-30psi depending on what I have loaded with me.
The mt-21 works better on the street but wears faster because of its softer compound than the 606's.
The 606 rear mt-21 front seems to be a great combo just remember to inflate at least the front when getting back on the asphalt because it will wear uneven quickly and become a miserable tire and it mostly comes from using the front brake while under inflated and will wear the backside of the knobs from flex.
Mt-43 is a long wearing tire and works good in most situations except mud and really dry fine sand.

I ran the D606 rear / MT-21 front combo for a few months based on the recommendations I had read here. I didn't like the MT-21 at all in the dirt. The front washed out several times before I pulled it off and put another D606 up front. I am so much happier with the current setup.

thanks what a great idea why didnt i think of that DAOOOOH

I have had them both wash out a time or two but I think it has a lot to do with air pressure and fork adjustment most just seem to go with what the dealer has it at that's probably fine for most since I have had go-race do both front and rear suspension the bikes adjustability for whatever terrain I'm in at the time makes this bikes suspension work to your advantage. It's not a cheap upgrade but if I had it to do all over on a new bike I would just do the suspension, tires and gearing 13/46 or 47 and leave the rest alone because when you get it adjusted right you can ride it wide open get great hook-up and predictability that is nothing like the stock bike can do

Also a faster rider will like there suspension stiffer/harder because the forces are greater
Where as if a slower rider had it set stiff/harder when they corner there is not enough g-force to compress the suspension and then you are not absorbing the force and relying just on the tires to hold your line

Hi Folks,

Thinking of moving up a notch form my Honda CRF230L to the WRR. I test rode a friend's WRR the other day, and it definitely had more power throughout and could cruise faster on the highway than mine. It was way taller, but I know that I could bring it down a bit with the yama-link and stock adjustments. I hear people say you don't need both feet on the ground...but I gotta say that I like it and it has saved my ass more than once on the little CRF.

The one thing that I was not comfortable with, however, was my inability to ride slow without stalling. I know that I am coming from a six speed, carbureted engine in the CRF that can crawl along in first as slow as I want, but when trying to slow maneuver in the dirt on the WRR I kept stalling it, even if I tried to work the clutch. I also stalled once in traffic as I was crawling along. I'm not sure I'd be happy losing the ability to go slow when needed just to get more power and speed everywhere else. Are people gearing this thing down to get it to perform better at slower speeds or on the steep stuff? Or what else are people doing? Are there mods causing sacrifices in other areas, like less top end speed, etc? I appreciate any input! Cheers

You can go as slow as you like in the stock gearing if you practice. If you want to go slow downhill without feathering brakes fit a bigger rear sprocket - eg 47. Will help you get up the hills too, and reports on here say it makes 6th gear work better on the highway, too.