A matter of linguistics I think. If you have wired the bike so the clutch lever has to be pulled for the bike to start you have by passed the neutral safety switch and it is performing no function. The downside is that the system as it was designed can be started with either of these conditions met, either the clutch in or the trans in neutral. If in operation one or the other system developes a problem you can still start the bike using the other. If you eliminate either system then you have no redundency and the bike can be started only if your single system works. Why would you want to wire the bike like this? The original set up is better, IMHO.
The other alternative is to have a workaround if the clutch switch fails. For example, if the clutch switch fails and it's function is to provide power to the start button (how my bikes work) then all I'd have to do is cut the wires to the clutch switch and short them to start the bike. I like N start on my bikes and wouldn't disable it. Just pointing out a possibility.
On my Old Beemer I've had the green light on constantly because of wires tied together and clutch switch wired together and I've had them all working or one of them working. Seems I go through something with these every few years. Currently only the neutral switch works. If I had the money I'd buy a clutch switch but consider it not a necessity. Then I should probably state that I sometimes consider lighting and brake lights not a necessity too.
Actually I do consider rear view mirrors a necessity. If I have had stuff apart and forgot to put them back on, has happened, I find it very uncomfortable to ride with out the view to the rear. The stock set up for the electrical system works pretty good I think. I will fix mine someday.
