Great question and I wish I knew the answer. Last year I went through my swing arm and found the same thing. I bought a new OEM one from a dealer. Regards, Gregory Bender
OK i know it's a LOT colder where some of you guys live ................BUT I DON'T LIKE IT so tried a little run out with my new DRIFT 170HD , still trying to fathom out how to post a full 15min vid but here's a taster, and please be gentle with me as it's my 1st time http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z4rE9bNGezY&feature=player_detailpage#t=0s Got back freezing and decided to smarten up the plastics .......only white,yellow and black and didn't want to but more so started on the front fender in white, and ran out !!!! With black and yellow left the tank had to be one or the other !!!!! or why not both Didn't turn out to bad i thought , i'll have a play with the side panels tomorrow Phil
A bit more video ..............in -13°c http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2epAKgqvmw&feature=player_detailpage#t=2s
So last summer, I bought a project bike - '96 se. Knew it has a head problem and need some love, but didn't think it was too bad. Well, a replacement head, 8 week layover in a shop that never got to it, new valves and valve job, various parts, a reworked carb, plastics and a whole lot more money than it was worth, it still doesn't run. In fact, things have gone downhill. After I got a new/used head for it last summer, I found out both exhaust valves leaked badly (about 30psi and they leaked carb cleaner when tested). Picked up a new set, had them ground in and put it all together. Hit the button and won't start. Went and brought a compression gauge and showed 0 psi. Gutted, I shelved it for the winter. October was here so I headed for the woods to find some solace instead of more heartache. Today I went and pulled the head and hoped that I simply had it 180 out of time. No such luck as it appears to be dead-on (lobes down, t-mark showing and the cam timing marks perfectly horizontal with the tensioner in). I seriously need some guidance. 1) I never pulled the piston so I didn't check the rings. Cylinder showed a slight amount of vertical streaking, but it couldn't be detected by touch and didn't seem to be an issue. Could I have this totally wrong and ANY cylinder vertical streaking is bad news? 2) The replacement head had the manual de-comp assembly but my auto-decomp cam was in good shape so I installed it based on instruction from Jesse. Could I have misunderstood him or gave him the wrong information some how? Is this setup functional? Will it affect compression? 3) Just realized I haven't put any oil in the cylinder so I'll do that and see what happens 4) What else should I do? As far as I know, compression is either valves, piston rings or maybe cylinder head gasket. That said, unless one or more of the valves wasn't closing by a large amount, I don't know how to account for 0 psi.l would guess there would be at least some. Hope you can help
So I double checked the manual decomp shaft and made sure that I re-installed the valve cover with the shaft positioned so that the flat spot was over the rocker arm. I also put some oil in the cylinder (not much). Held the start button and the gauge worked it's way to somewhere between 35psi and 45psi. Glad to see something, I suppose, but not too thrilled. I should be closer to 120psi, right? If so, can bad rings make that much difference or does there have to be yet something else working against me? Oh, on the auto-decomp cam, I know I saw the spring, but afterwards I was thinking the decompressor shaft might have just kind of flipped back and forth, I should stay in only one position right? The spring holding it until the engine speed overcomes the spring tension?
It is really hard to get a compression tester to work on these engines especially ones with auto decompress fitted so don't be too worried about your readings . Can you hear compression ? Funny question I know but you should hear solid intake and exhaust noise as it turns over or does it just spin over way too easy ? I have to ask this although I have a feeling you are all over this already , valves too tight ??
you need to call jesse at kientek enginering .. he is located in southern oregon .. take your bike there and give him a check .. he will make it all beter :) and tell you a few things that most people dont know :) good luck and god speed
Pour a little oil down the spark plug hole (2 table spoons) and try the compression test. If it bumps up you have bad rings. If it stays the same you have bad valves or bad valve timing or bad cams...
Ok l know its boring , but i'm made up that i've managed to sort this vid stuff out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YwOExI_Ti20&feature=player_detailpage#t=3s Phil
Cheers Mark I'm well pleased with them seeing as i'm a real technophobe !!!! Couldn't find a way to fix the BOX BROWNIN on the DR
Since adding the oil helped the compression, looks like rings are needed. But if they are needed, is a new piston too? And if the piston needs replaced (due to oil starvation by the previous owner), is there anything else I won't know about until I tear it down, fix it then put it all back together, yet again? Yeah, I'm way over enjoying the wrenching on this bike. Off to the shop it goes tomorrow. Once I've finally heard it run (for the first time) and have a few miles on it, I'll go back to learning/doing my own work. Thanks for the feedback
Hi all Bought the DR350 and when I when test rode it all seemed fine. Got home and serviced it incl pads, oil/filter, spark plug etc and also took out carb and cleaned it. Before re-assembling it I checked the float height and that it was all moving freely in the chamber. When I fitted to bike and started it I had fuel coming out of the thin breather pipe at bottom of carb. this only stopped when I turned fuel off (bike still ran ok until carb emptied obviously). I have had this before with a husky and know about fuel leaks when float is stuck or at wrong height but I am sure that the float is fine having stripped carb down. Any help/guidance appreciated.
I know you said you stripped the carb and the float was fine, but next time this happens try giving the carb bowl a little love tap with the handle end of a screwdriver. If the piddle stops then it was a lightly stuck float. That used to happen periodically on the old GS550 I had.
Trying to install a rear brake switch... Got the one for Nissin brakes from Tusk. Worked hard to get my factory banjo bolt out only to discover the threads are different... Ehhh Anyone else has this issue?
I used either this one (10mm x 1.25mm pitch): http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1584 or this one (10mm x 1mm pitch): http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1583 Sorry I can't be more precise than that. Measure your pitch and go from there. Hope this helps! Regards, Gregory Bender
The current state of my DR. It's evolved a bit since I bought it bone stock about five years ago. Javier at Trailtricks has done a careful and top-notch job on this build. Thanks man! 441 big bore, big valves, performance cam, pumper carb, FMF pipe, Kientech SS header ceramic coated, Acerbis tank, Renazco seat, revalved/rebuilt rear shock, PMB rear rack, LED turn singles, X2 light, and just this month, kicker backup added, RM250 front end conversion, custom valves/springs with oversized rotor and billet triples with fat bar clamps, KTM computer. Still a nice little sleeper bike that can run some tough trails at a good clip, and still be loaded up and tour 1500 miles up and down the coast with no worries. Many dirt bikes will come and go, but this one's stayin'! dc
