BMW G650X Challenge Thread Index

I prefer the clip link but *always* have a spare master link or at least clip with me on the road. Pull the swing arm and lube it with a good waterproof grease now and it should be good for several years. I have always used RTV between the link clip and the side plate after loosing one in Alaska. The side plate was still firmly In Place and the second clip finished the trip with no drama. The side plates I have used are a press on fit (channel lock pliers) as well. I have seen pix of safety wire around the clip and it apparently clears the sprocket teeth but I have never tried this method. Make sure the round end of the clip faces the direction of the chain's travel.

That looks like the same set I just got.

http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php...f-x-ring-chain-bmw-650-x-challenge-07-08.html

The sprockets seem good, the chain is a DID, good stuff!

It's probably been mentioned elsewhere in the last 6947 posts, but if you need a new battery, the MotoBatt MBTZ10S is a robust, inexpensive (around $80) AGM battery that is a perfect fit.

I have a pristine and super-comfy RayZ custom seat for sale for the Xchallenge. $320USD+pp Only available until I change my mind or sold elsewhere. FIFS, pictures here:

So after reading about the "airbox mod" here, I went home and performed said modification. However, upon closer inspection I have some concerns about it.

It seems like removing the top of the airbox is inviting water to enter the airbox and get sucked into the air filter element, especially in any kind of rainy weather.

I'm sure if you never ride in the rain it is a non issue. But I would be concerned about any kind of water with the modification performed. I took some photos to illustrate.

This is the factory intake inlet. Notice the channels that look like they have been placed there specifically to trap any water that may make its way up the inlet tube?


And with the airbox lid removed, you can see that this would be a great place to invite wind to push water under the outer cover and up into the paper element.


Maybe because of my Leo Vince exhaust, I didn't notice any gains in HP, torque or sound. At least I wasn't able to perceive much if any difference by the way the bike feels. So I will be reversing the mod as I don't think the benefits outweigh the risk of getting water in the intake.

Am I making too much of this, or does it seem like a legitimate concern?

I put my airbox lid back on (PO removed it) when I installed the TT tank and noticed zero difference. Leo Vince exhaust, too.

I think your thought process is prudent. I have left mine alone.

I would be concerned with that paper element in place.
My intake cover has been removed for years with no problem but I run Uni Filter foam with well oiled pre filter.
Rode through some torrential rain at speed for a couple of hours. Once home I opened the Airbox drain to release a few drops of water. I'm OK with that.

Thanks for the replies, I have put the cover back in place as it wasn't worth the risk for me.

Hi, its been a while, but do you still have this comparison for sprocket size vs speed? I'm keen to see it. cheers from NZ

Quick question, anyone found a hose clamp out there that fits the X and is a little easier to install?

Just tried a constant tension spring clip off Mcmaster but ended up being too small to get over the radiator spigots - http://images2.mcmaster.com/Contents/gfx/small/7329kp1s.png?ver=15246625

What are yall using? Stock clips with speciality pliers to make the install easier?

Anyone here that has used the Hotrod Welding XRack for carrying luggage? http://www.hotrodwelding.nl/product.php?id=8

I need to get a luggage rack for my XChallenge to do the TAT and am seriously considering ordering one, but have some questions.

From the photos, it looks like it mounts to the bottom of the stock sub-frame via a tab that is welded to the sub-frame. But something tells me that is a custom mount and it doesn't actually come this way. So I'm wondering how the internet ordered version does attach.

Also, I am wondering if that rack will be up to the challenge (no pun intended) of the TAT using the stock aluminum sub frame. Or do I NEED to order the Touratech steel frame to go along with it?

Thanks for any input.

The photos show the Xchallenge Xrack attached to the Touratech steel rear subframe. The XCountry photos show it mounted to the 2009 BMW steel subframe.

Send them an email with photos of your subframe to get the one you need.

I've got the X rack on my Country and I think it's a great piece of kit. I'm pretty sure the aluminium frame will do (even without welding in some strenghtening) but I guess it depends on the load. Walter Colebatch has used his for miles and miles and miles in the Russian outback so I think this tells you something about the quality.
Hotrod do two versions, one for the steel frame and one for the ally one. It's a simple bolt on job on both as far as I know but I suggest you contact Erik with any queries you might have.
I haven't put any much weight on it so far but I did crash it out on the road and other than some paint coming of there was no damage.

Cheers, Ard

Nice XCountry! And thanks for the info. The bolt on part is what worries me, because Colebatch mentioned that the bolt on method using the factory holes was problematic because it just strips the holes over time. He mentioned that the only true way of doing it was to bolt through the subframe pin style, or it looks like his bike actually has a mounting tab welded to the subframe.

But I guess you are right, in that I need to contact them first.

Except I emailed Erik and his work ship months and months ago about either their version of the sub frame or strengthening the aluminium one and no-one replied at all. I appreciate they are busy but

I had already stripped one threaded hole on my '07 alloy subframe, pillion grab handle mount, where my xtank is installed.
So Erik sent me both the xrack and a (TT) steel subframe.
No special tabs or anything are welded to the subframe.
The xrack has tabs welded to the front lower arms, that you bolt to the pillion peg holes (on my '07 alloy or TT steel subframe.)
There's probably a way to keep using pillion pegs with xrack installed but I didn't even try to sort that out, don't care.
The end result is bomber, solid, ideal.

I have a xchallenge with 5000 miles on it and my wife has an 09 xcountry with 4000 miles on hers. My bike shifts as well as can be expected from a BMW, which is pretty good, but my wife's xcountry is stiff and difficult to get into neutral. Occasionally it seems to take 5 seconds for the neutral light to come on. I just put my neutral switch into her bike but the same thing continues to happen. I have adjusted the clutch but this does not seem to help at all. Changed the oil and made sure I had the right amount in it. Any advice?