looking for a complete stock klx300 exhaust in good/excellent condition. check this out if you have stock pegs on your klx http://www.d2moto.com/p-4905-1994-2...650-foot-pegs.aspx?ProductCode=FP022&CartID=1 anyone have suggestions on where to get braided brake hoses for the klx??
I now have a pair!!!!! 1996 KLX250R 2005 KLX300R I have a picture of them together but I'll be damned if I can find it!! I have a spare barrel and piston for the 250, and it does need valve adjust more than the 300. Both have all free mods done, UNI filters, and Race Tech suspension, Renthal bars, and the 300 just got an FMF head pipe, White Bros can and a jet change. I park my 2 KLX's right beside my 2 KLR's and love them all. Oh and with my son's KX 60 there is a whole lot of Kawasaki going on!!!!!!
I'll definitely chime in and support Mark's comments on the cam chain noise and tensioner issue. I'm the guy who guinea pigged the first example of the manual tensioner with him, and it's been working for these many months and many miles with no issue. I have an '06 KLX250S with a factory 300 cylinder/piston. My cam chain was worn out at about 10,000 miles, but oddly the guide blocks, rub blocks, and cam gears were not. I installed a new chain and worked with Mark on the manual tensioner that he built. The body of his tensioner worked perfectly right off the bat, and we only tweaked the adjustment/pressure plunger for a better design and ease of access when adjusting. Until the installation of the manual adjuster, this was a terribly noisy engine...plenty of knack-knack-knack-knack. It sounded a lot like piston slap or close to a knock. Now the motor is relatively quiet...I'm running a Muzzy exhaust...and I know the cam chain is adjusted properly.
FIDOLLAZ: I have a complete stock exhaust system available. Also, all the other parts you might need except the cylinder and cylinder head. Yep, I'm parting out my KLX300R.
All right. Time to get this thread going again. I made some changes and added some parts.... Skid Plate: Fork Gaurds-hard to find, but the KLX250 ones are the same... Rear Brake Gaurd Happy Trails rear rack with tire repair kit mounted.... modified doggy pack panniers... Wolfman number plate pack. Nice..... Got out for forty miles of single track yesterday..... near Aztec,nm
Sweet! I have the same in my basement. Although mine has been rode very hard (XC raced in Alberta for 4 years). Acerbis aluminum handguards, rad gaurds, disc guards, ceramic coated pipe, custom KX fork springs, CR500 rear spring, 520 DID oring chain, 1t down up front, Unicross tire, Renthal bars, just did a LED brake light, swapped the stock headlight back on (from the number plate), GPS speedo, mirror, new fork seals, brake pads, ready to be my hardcore backwoods bike. Stock tank though, wonder if 2.5 gallons is enough...
Woe is me. My buddy bought an 01 KLX300 two years ago. Plated and ran pretty good. We did a little maintenance, put a big tank on it and he attempted to do a fairly long DS ride with me. Grenaded the top end. One of the cams was nasty hot and little parts everywhere. He bought a new top end and put it on but couldn't get it running. Prior to installing the new head (new to him, used) he pulled the valves and "cleaned them up" by removing all the buildup. I wasn't there for that evolution, but I know he didn't lap them or whatever it is smart mechanics do to valves and seats. Buddy basically removed the carbon buildup. Sat for a year and finally ended up in my garage. He was suspicious of the valves being too tight. Tonight we pulled the top of the head off and tried to measure the valve clearance. NONE. So, he pulled out the shims, put the damn thing back together and STILL no clearance at all (Cam touching buckets). Yes, bike was set at TDC and cams installed properly via manual ). Just for shits and giggles we thought we bolt it back together and try to run it with no shims. It started on the first kick. BUT, the engine rattles like hell. Runs smooth with good throttle response, just a LOT of rackety noise. I had him shut it down. If it has no shims in the buckets and NO measurable clearance...what next? Thanks!
You'll have to bring the head into the machine shop and have them grind the ends of the valve stems to make them shorter.
Sorry for the super delayed reply. After the Dynojet kit for the CV carb, I think the head pipe is the best mod for the money and a must have for a 300. I also like the crank case vent, and shift kit.
Looking to ride a bit on the road in Alaska ... since the trails are a distance from the house and my bike is road legal. What sprocket setup can I use. Stock is 14, right? Can I go up to a 15 or 16, or is there no room in the case? What about the rear? Can I get away with just upping the front? Or am I best off just bringing the tooth count down in the rear? What say ye?
I went with a 15 and that helped. Later a 48t aluminum, better, now I'm 46t aluminum. I'm ridng more roads than trails. If you're riding to the trails go with 15/48. The aluminum helps the engine spool up faster. Check rockymtnatv for the $16 aluminum they have. THEY'RRRE GGRRREAT!
I may be picking up a 97 KLX 300 today for pretty cheap. The seller told me yesterday that the bike was "his friends" and it has a ton of upgrades to included KX250 front and rear suspension, a dual sport kit, the stroker kit (whatever that is, I'm assuming it's a big bore kit), and the case for an e-start, the button, but no starter. I'm picking this up for my wife. You guys know of anything I should be looking for other than oil, filter, and dirt behind the filter. And of course if the damn thing starts and runs. Thanks.
Asked the question over on the Long Term KLX250S thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=16694277&postcount=5665. Who has a Kustom Kraft 331 with plated cylinder? How long/how many miles/how many hours? Have you had any problems? Specifically, I'm curious about how many cylinders have cracked or failed otherwise.
Need a new rear shock for my KLX250, anyone knows the difference between yellow spring and silver? Anyone got one for sale?