Have been a member for some time and had not browsed around too much until the last few days. What a great time I have had. My mount is a 2007 Suzuki DR200SE running a basically stock power train, just turned over 16500 miles today. What I changed: I designed a rear rack on which I mounted a pelican box allowing me to do short distance touring and use it as a daily commuter. I installed a windshield that I keep on during the North Carolina "winter" months to break some of the wind. I also fabricated a GPS mount for mt eTrek. For rubber, I have been running Pirelli MT 90 Scorpion A/T Enduro front and rear and like them a lot - 110/80-18 rear and 80/90-21 on the front. I just ordered a 39 tooth rear sprocket from http://www.rebelgears.com (thanks to the links on this forum) to get a bump in fuel economy to see if I can break into the mid to high 70s consistently while maintaining average speed of 55 mph. So far I have hung around 68 - 72.
I modified a sport bike swingarm stand similar to: http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Swing-Arm-Spool-Lift-Stand/dp/B000GT4PYC to fit the narrower stance of the DR200SE.
^^^Cool picture, nice bike Canuck76^^^. Post up some pics of the front with the windscreen, if you can- would like to see what you have mounted up. I just topped off the gas tank on my wifes new '09 DR 200 after 112 miles (116 total on the bike) and put in 1.2 gallons- which, if my math is correct comes to 93.33 MPG!! Of course, she rides like an old lady-
Thanks for the tip. I adjusted the idle mix screw. It was 2 turns out, so I took it to 3 1/2 turns out. I noticed a better throttle response right away. The rain was coming, so I couldn't get to the highway to see how it ran at higher RPM. Maybe it will solve my throttle issue I have at the 65mph mark. I'll report back later. -Jason
hey steve gs, can you post pictures of the works shock of your dr200. also, anyone remember who has installed crf150 fork springs.
Sure thing: I had my brackets cut from 1/8" plate aluminum and then anodized blue. All a huge favor from a good friend!! The whole thing I was able to do without figuring bend angles on the sheet metal by keeping it flat. I did this by using a 3/8" standoff under a the front bolt, which I replaced with a slightly longer one. I notched the back side of the bracket to allow it to fit over the threaded rod of the signal lights. It has suffered a few falls but has not shown any sign of damage or bending. The box is attached to the bracket with a piece of angle aluminum. The windshield is mostly a cruiser-style windshield from JC Whitney http://www.jcwhitney.com/cruiser-style-windshields/p2000659.jcwx?filterid=j1 I had to cut my own longer (3/8"?) steel rod to raise the windshield to help reduce buffeting. I tightened windshield bolts too tight and ended up cracking the windshield. Next time, I should read the instructions first!
Thanks KF7GTH, That is incredible fuel economy! Not sure if I could get that number, I push too much air. I posted some photos but they are taking a while to get posted.
Probably has a lot to do with her riding really gentile during break-in 50 mph maximum- and she is 100 pounds lighter than me Thanks for the pictures- I want to rig up some sort of wind protection and maybe fab up some sort of crash guards for the DR too.
Nicely done, Canuck76. I like the rack a lot. How did you cut the side pieces so nicely? Looks like it was machined, or water jet cut. Primo.
Hi, I live in Newfoundland Canada and at 36yrs I just bought my first MC. I have owned many Atv's and I love my Artic cat trv 400, absolutly deadly bike. Well 3 weeks ago I bought a 99 dr200 because I wanted to find access to some new to me trails. The bike has some issues....needs new brake shoes,The muffler needs replaced, the gasket where the stud meets the acorn nut at the cylinder head needs to be replaced as there is a slight oil leak. Plus there is a regular bolt there instead of the acorn nut so that is also on order. I ordered a new air filter and washer too. The motor has been rebuilt by a "honda dealer" with the donor being a 2008. The bike runs smooth, though the new battery run down fairly quickly if i forget the choke or stall. Paid 1700 cash, a hard find for a descent bike in the lower price range. Unfortunely I didn't get a registration slip to licence the bike so i've tracked down previous owners and all are slow to give me the appropriate paperwork but still looks promising. If it doesn't work out i'll use it off trail and sell next year. oVERALL, the bike is very fun to ride, definitly underpowered for the highway but great on rural streets and trails. pics to come.
First of all, thanks to the community here for all of the information that has been posted and shared. I've used this forum as a reference for all of my bike's needs in the past year or so. Now I've got a problem that I need some help with. I was changing my oil in the garage last night on my 2003 DR200. All oil drained and then time to refill. I used a pair of channel lock pliers to unscrew the oil fill cap as I have done so many times in the past. The tab broke off! I tried to dremel a cross section to possibly fit in a flat-head screwdriver to break the screw loose but that didn't work so well. The metal is just too soft for that. This really sucks. Any ideas?
I would use a vise-grip pliers on the outside edge of the cap. But take the bike for a ride first and make sure the engine cases are really hot. That should cause the plug hole to expand and make it easier to get the plug out. Edit: Whoops, all the oil already out, can't ride the bike. You could add the oil back in by laying the bike on its side and adding via the drain plug or the oil filter access.
Thanks Klay, good ideas. I'll flatten out two sides of the plug as best as possible for the vice grips. I'll let y'all know how it goes.
Like Klay said, use some vice grips. They are essential in any tool kit. That should come right off no problem. Out of curiosity, were you over tightening that cap with the pliers? On a side note, I tapped my oil drain threads but couldn't find the proper bolt size. However I realized that whole plate at the bottom came right out and I just ordered a new one for $8 which is better anyway. w00t.
I have a cheap and easy fix,if you have the tools. First,get the cap out using the vise grip method but be careful not to damage the cap.Put a towel on the cap before gripping it with vice grips. Second,while the cap is off drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center of the cap. Third,install a 1/4 inch toggle bolt up side down, so the toggle makes a new place to grab to remove.Use red loctite. Forth,install a 1/4 inch nylock nut on top of the toggle. Fifth,cut off the excess bolt threads even with the top of the nut. Sixth,clean everything up before installing it. Last time I did this I had about $3 in the whole set up.If you feel that you need more height on the toggle add a nut underneath the toggle.Most hardware stores have these in singles.Lowe's and Home Depot have them in packs. I thought my first post should be helpful.
A friend of mine offered to machine them, he is a "amateur" machinist. Before he offered, my original plan was to band-saw the perimeter and drill the bolt holes and lightening holes. His plan obviously won out. Kudos to him for the nice workmanship. Here's to Friends.