I am restoring a 1974 tc100. All and all its a great bike. It starts every time with no fuss and is in good shape. I have a few questions though. 1. What is the spark plug gap supposed to be? 2. Why does it blow bulbs in the front end? 3. Would you use a 6 volt sealed headlamp I place of the stock one? Thats a good start. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks
Last I checked this thread had 147 views. Someone must have some insight into electrical issues. I ordered a sealed beam headlight, and it would suck to hook it up only to watch it burn out. Maybe not having a headlight hooked up allowes too much curent to reach the indicators and idiot lights causing them it burn out? I dont know. Help this little bike be all it can be!
On the bulb blowing issue, i would be suspect of a bad voltave regulator... Do the lights get noticably brighter when you rev the engine? If so your v regulator is cooked...
Yeah, the spark plug gap I found and decided to order the headlight. So the bulb blowing is the most pressing issue. Even the words "voltage regulator" make alot of sense. As soon as I find it and find a new one to buy I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the tip. Even though I dont know jack about this stuff, its alot of fun working on this old bike. So far I've replaced the oil injection system, speedometer, rear break pedal, alot of bolts, rear break light, a little paint and done alot of cleaning. Super fun and I have my eye out for more like it.
Doesn't it use a rectifier? Make sure you have a battery in it or bulbs will blow. Spark plug gap for my Stinger is 0.7-0.8
From what I found out the tc 100 spark plug gap could be from 0.5 to 0.8 mm. I set mine closer to 0.8 because it seems to have plenty of electrical power and because its 40 years old, I assume the compression is a little lower than when it was new. Once its warmed up , she runs pretty good. It does have a rectifier and regulator and the battery seems fine. From reading this artical http://www.electrosport.com/technic...articles/how-motorcycle-charging-system-works it looks like all the componants can be tested. I'm not sure if they are talking about 6 volt or 12 volt or if it matters. Is it a multi meter I would need?
Yes, get a digital volt ohm meter. The manual will probably give you ohm readings. My Stinger is a 6v, not sure about your bike though.
Here's a wiring diagram for your bike http://suzukits.informe.com/gallery..._+Wiring+Diagram+_Standard+Specification_.jpg It does not have a regulator, only a half wave rectifier. These are called balanced systems and with a magneto ignition the battery is only used for lighting. Your battery is the regulator, and it must be in good condition so it can absorb the voltage put out at varying RPM's or your lights will blow. Batteries can be bad from day one (especially if improperly initialized by charging too quickly), or sulfate over time or inactivity. If you do not even have a meter, you have no way of knowing the battery is good, or what voltages are getting to the lights at different engine speeds. Meters can be found for under 10 bucks. Get one and then give us your results.
I have been testing things but im not finished yet. So far the battery and rectifier seem fine . What is the green thing in the picture I posted above? I dont see it on the diagram.
Not sure what that is. Doesn't look like the rectifier. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Suzuki-AS50...Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d8bba858&vxp=mtr I'd recommend getting a parts manual. I got one for my Stinger and it's been invaluable in describing parts and giving me part numbers aiding me in searches. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-TS10...torcycle_Parts_13&hash=item4d15b21a70&vxp=mtr
First off, i`m not an ADV noob, this is a fresh account as my original now has, well, a mystery password. Stupid memory. I`ve got a 73 TC 100, which I am in the process of ADVing, and i absolutely LOVE it! recently rebuilt the top end, the first time the engine had been apart in it`s life. The base and head nuts were pristine and unmarked. Anyway, this is you`re thread, not mine! To answer your Q`s, These bikes do NOT have a regulator, as has been previously stated. They do indeed use the battery to iron out the voltage. At a low idle, the headlight will dim, rev it and it gets brighter. Get on and RIDE it, it doesn`t keep getting brighter till it blows, the batt soaks up excess. I have 1300 miles on my globe, and both beams still work. (and i DO use it, when i`m riding on dusk to be more visible to cagers who might be asleep) No need for a sealed beam light. Oh, and I tested the batt voltage, and it`s up around 9 volts. Kind of like `12v` systems are actually 14ish v. The factory owners manual, which I bought off my awesome local Suzuki dealer who happened to have one laying around, says the plug gap should be 0.6-0.7 mm (0.024 -0.028 in the old fashioned money) tightened to 18 -21 ft lb. Ignition Points gap should be 0.35mm (0.014) I take it you have replaced the oil injection system with one that works? (kind of rare that it would fail, unless frigged with by an idiot) These old Suzukis don`t last with a misadjusted/ missing pump. If you`re not sure, just say and I`ll gladly tell you the procedure. The more of these bikes survive, the better. Mine was a true, and lucky, `barn find` bought cheap, cleaned up, registered, and 1300 miles later, i`m still loving it! Hope yours proves to be as much fun as mine! Dave
