It's an 08 250R. Valve check intervals are 40K km & the cover is a royal pain in the arse to get off. I've had this type of seal leak before so it's going to get some spooge of some sort. Cheers Clint
Clintz-if it's a rubber gasket, I'd go with some sort of "sensor safe" RTV. At your local automotive supply store confirm those words are listed somewhere on the package. Confirm it does not smell like vinegar. Just beware though. In order for an RTV to give you a good seal, you have to assemble the parts within a few minutes. Doing so, you'll make sure the RTV bead does not skin over before the parts are assembled. If the RTV skins over before the valve cover is reassembled, the RTV won't wet out the mating surface. Gasket Eliminators do not have this skin over problem, but the mating gap is not overly uniform-thus the RTV suggestion. Dirty
Dirty, I have read through this thread and cant find a specific answer. What would you recommend for gluing / bonding the oil level window of my DR650? The outer rubber appears to be a normal oil seal. The old one had a black silicone type sealer holding it in place, and some of the Suzuki sealer sealing the groove between the rubber and the housing. I did read that 518 is the stuff to use for sealing the case half's. Should primer be used? Thanks! David.
Rowie- Wowie, this is a good application. I'd clean out the sight glass hole where it lives real good with a suitbly sized pick, flat head screw driver and finish it up with Qtip's until they come out clean. Then use a residue-free cleaner like electrical contact cleaner and let evaporate. Do a quick spray of 7649 Primer N in the hole, let evaporate. Draw out enough 518 on your finger and run a bead inside of the freshly primed hole. This thing is going to be pushed from the inside of the cover to the outside of the cover, so make sure there is enough 518 on the entire mating surface so that it offers some degree of lubricity to help you push this new sight glass into place. The only squeezeout you'll see will be on the outside of the case. Wipe this off so it doesn't become a dust magnet. Let it sit overnight before oiling her up. One of the KTM manuals I have suggests this very same sort of installation procedure. For future reference if all you have on hand is an RTV to mount a new sight glass, make darned sure it doesn't have a vinegar smell. If it does, don't use it. Don't use it. The oil will break down the RTV and you'll have another leak on your hands to deal with. Go out and buy an RTV from the local Auto Shack that expressly says "Sensor Safe" on it. A Sensor Safe Black RTV would be a safe choice. I don't suggest using an RTV to mount a sight glass because it'll skin over too quickly with the thin bead it requires in this application. Great question-Thanks! Dirty
I was probably going to join this forum anyway, sooner or later. But, I registered for the purpose of ASKING YOU A QUESTION!!! Feel important now? Whatever - here goes: We run 48 different plastic injection machines. The things are made by several different manufacturers, each has it's own characteristics. We have more machines made by Van Dorn than any other brand. Each Van Dorn has an ejector cylinder that gives us pure hell. As with most hydraulic systems, the shaft coming out of the cylinder is a hard steel, with a mirror polish. I believe that shaft is stainless steel, but I have little idea what type of stainless it might be. The end of that shaft passes through a plain old cast iron ejector plate, then a stainless steel nut or bolt screws onto it. (some of the shafts end with male threads, some with female) This nut is constantly backing off, and that causes all sorts of problems with the cycling of the clamp. In the past, I have cleaned the male and female threads, then used Loc-Tite blue. No luck, someone suggested that I use Loc-Tite red. Again, no luck. Only very recently have I become aware that there is a Loc-Tite Primer for use with stubborn applications. And, at about the same time, I became aware that not all blue are the same, nor are all red the same. So - what do ya suggest here? From reading a number of posts in this thread, plus my limited research on the internet, I THINK THAT I want to use some Primer N 7649, probably on both the male and female threads. We can, but don't really want to heat these surfaces to disassemble the things for maintenance. So, I believe that I want to use the OIL TOLERANT blue stuff - Loc-Tite blue, 243. These cylinders are subject to a lot of stress - cycle times are as short as 30 seconds, and as long as 3 minutes. Each cycle, these cylinders are operated from 1 to 4 times, moving the ejector plate forward and back. In the smaller machines, that plate and the ejectors bolted to it weigh as little as 40 pounds, on the larger machines, as much as 120 pounds. Some of the mold's have spring loaded ejectors, which may add as much as 200 more pounds resistance to the weight of the steel being moved. The smallest ejector bolt is 3/4 inch, the largest is 1 1/4 inch. Dirty - if you can give me a foolproof way to secure these cylinders to the ejector plates, you will save us so much aggravation - you just wouldn't believe it. The single, most effective method that I have found so far, is to physically remove the mold from the machine, and poke a 3/4 inch impact wrench through the platen, to tighten that nut up. If I'm to believe the manufacturer, that impact wrench delivers over 750 ft/lb of torque. I can hammer on that bolt until I'm tired of holding the impact wrench - and that bolt still backs off after a few days. HELP ME PLEASE!!!
The ends of the shafts are exposed to ambient air temperature, give or take a few degrees. "Ambient" within a factory setting means 110 to 150 degrees. They are often warm to the touch, but not "hot", as you would expect with an engine, or a motor. The cylinders behind the shafts get considerably warmer, sometimes - but still less than 200 degrees. All of the serious heat is a few feet away, at the injection barrel, where we use copper flake anti-seize compound for all the bolts.
Runaway- Years back after doing a workshop at an injection moulding plant in Shreveport they brought me back into the shop to show me a very similar application. I offered up a fix and never heard a peep out of the guys about this particular application again. No news is good news, so the fix must have worked-otherwise I'm sure I would have heard something. My first question relates to the hole. Is is it a blind hole? A blind hole has a bottom to it and doe not go all the way through. The opposite is a through-hole, like a spark plug hole. Are you in Texarkana, TX, or Texarkana, AR? Asking because I think I'm going to have to turn the local Loctite guy loose on you. Dirty
The plant is actually in Nashville, Ar. I live in Foreman, Ar. I put Texarkana in my sig, because everyone in the world knows where that is. As mentioned - some of the shafts end with male threads, others are female threaded. So - the female shafts will be a blind hole, the male shafts accept a nut instead of a bolt. It would have been nice if all those machines were engineered the same way, but for whatever reason, they chose to use female threaded shafts on some machines, and male threaded shafts on others. And - BTW - that injection molding shop in Shreveport may well have been our company. I'm not real sure of dates, but - it seems like 22 or so years ago, the company moved to DeQueen, Ar, from Shreveport. Before that, they were located further east on I-20 - can't think of the name of the town right this minute. The company has been around for awhile, and they have moved several times. Our latest move was prompted by our prime customer, who closed up shop in DeQueen, and combined that operation with the one in Nashville.
Runaway- It sound's like a blind hole application-threadlocker is applied into the female hole and in this case I'd encourage you to put a quick shot of Primer N and some more threadlocker on the male threads and tighten her up. I've reviewd blind hole applications as well as things to be careful of earlier in the thread. If the Loctite guy out of Little Rock hasn't already given you a ring, he will. His name is Mike. Dirty
Hi Dirty, Do your peeps make a product for neutralizing and or stabilizing rust? Automotive application, body rust. Here is my need. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=19052952#post19052952 Thank you sir. nick Fuck Loaded.
Nick- Extend Rust Treatment. Comes in an aerosol, or a quart can you paint on. We use it on offshore oil rig legs down here and it works great.. Dirty
Oh Dirty One, Once again I come to the mountain seeking enlightenment. Some of the bearings in the transfer case of my truck have a not quite press fit. I was able to remove them with a drift and two light taps from a hammer, I was able to press the new bearings in by hand. Once in I am not able to move them by hand but again easy to remove. The factory service manual shows a puller to remove them and I'm used to transmission bearings requiring a press or pullers to remove. The case is aluminum, running in 90wt oil doesn't seem to get over 200 degrees. Of the bearing retainer products I've seen, 603 seems to be the only one labeled as oil resistant but it's permanent. I hope to not gave to go back in the case for another 200,000 miles but would like something that won't wreck the cases if I needed to pull the bearings. Thanks again. nick
Oh Mighty Stinky, I'm looking for some magic Loctite potion that will be applied externally and seep into the gasket between the two engine cases and seal up an oil leak that is dribbling from behind the oil filter housings. I guestimate that I'm losing 1oz or so every 50 miles. It didn't leak before a well know engine builder performed surgery on the motor and now I'm staring at a tube of JB Weld before a big trip. Patient: '05 KTM 450 EXC Any advise would be appreciated!
Nick-crap bro! I forgot about your question. sorry. I've been up to my eyeballs with work...sticky business, I know, so don't get me started. My neighbor is perpetually working on his Dodge diesel truck to...make it better. A few weeks ago we installed an external belt driven fuel pump driven by a toothed belt. It was a pretty snug press to get the pully's in place and to make things better, we used 603 or 609 to mount these pullys. In short we got them switched around and by the time we realized this, the stuff had set up to the point that a small crack pipe blow torch and a 3' prybar was needed to get these things off. I was freakin' out but didn't show it. Am relaying the story because short of pulling the radiator we'd a been positively screwed if heat and the prybar didn't work. Instead of a Retaining Compound, I'd clean the parts real good, fit the bearings in place and use 290 threadlocker. It'll pull itself in between the OD of the bearing and the ID of the housing. Let it sit undisturbed overnight and you should be ace. Dirty
Todd- Once the gasket has taken a compression set (discussed earlier in this thread) and this is exactly what has happened...and I'd bet a dollar on it. Since you already have a seeper on your hands the gasketed surface has already been contaminated. Short of splitting the cases, you're not going to be able to clean the mating surfaces of the gasket. Don't despair dear Todd, for I have a fix My chain saw and LC4 lump was doing the very same thing. The KTM had a small weep where the rocker arm shafts exited the valve cover thanks to the O-Ring seals taking a compression set. The old Craftsman chainsaw was bought back in the mid-70's and leaked gas pretty badly. It didn't have a free standing tank, the tank was made up of the left and right half of the case. Here's how I fixed both, but in your case you might consider taking the bike for a spin, get her up to temp, and drain the oil while it's hot and flows a bit easier. Let it drain overnight if you can so the hot oil is encouraged to flow out of the leaking case seam. Clean and degrease the affected areas and use a toothbrush for a little more cleaning and agitation and extend out a bit just to make it better. Using an oxime-cure RTV Silicone (one that doesn't have a vinegar smell) like Loctite 598, or Instant Gasket, draw you a bead on the suspect gasketed areas. Flatten out that bead with a cheapie Harbor Freight Metal handle small paint brush with the bristles cut down so they're half length and work the RTV out about 1/4" from the seam. Don't use a blue, a red, or a clear RTV to make this fix (The brand does not matter) These kinds of RTV's do not play well with fuels or oils...at all. 5 or 6 years later my chainsaw still doesn't leak, and roughly 2 years later the valve cover on the KTM doesn't leak either. You're done. Let it sit overnight, oil her up and show us some pics when you get back. Dirty
is there a product for loose seals in the case (viton coated steel to aluminum)- the opposite of a speedi-sleeve? to set a seals o.d......?
Put a shot of 7649 Primer N enough to completely wet out both the OD of the seal and the ID of the aluminum part, let it evaporate, then draw an adequate bead of 515 or 518 Gasket Eliminator on the ID of the aluminum part, slip it/press it together within 2 to 5 minutes, wipe off any squeezeout and you'll be in high cotton. Let it sit two to three hours if possible. Working quickly and accurately is uber important because use of the primer kickstarts the fixture of the Gasket Eliminator. Dirty
