I'm looking for a new chain for my Bandit 12, and the color I'd like (Red - yes, it shouldn't matter), is only to be found on EK 530 MVZX chain. DID and RK have the usual gold, but I wouldn't mind red. Are the EK chains good? I definitely do not want to go with an inferior chain (Volar, etc), and I do not want to do a 520 conversion for the big beast. 530 it will stay. Thanks
It's been a very long time since I bought an EK, but they used to be good. And for the price they charge, they OUGHT to be very good. I very recently considered an EK for my G650 but it cost about 50% more than the comparable RK. Stay with a 530. The Bandit will stretch even the best 520 too quickly. How's the beast running? Took my B1200 for a ride a few weeks back and scared myself so badly that I need to get my R80G/S going again so I can sell the B1200. I've gotten so used to the 50HP 650 single that I can't handle the Bandit anymore. Safe riding!
Yes, they do charge a lot, but my local dealer can get me 120 link 530 red chain for $130 out the door, which is about what i paid for the 520 RK that is on my WRR. The bike is running awesome. Yes, I scared myself a few times when I looked down and saw that I was doing 70 weaving between traffic:eek1 It is just so effortless. But, I missed mine, so I'm glad to have it back. Yes, it is a huge difference between that and the 650GS I sold before I got the B12. It is so much fun, though EK, DID, RK seem like good brands.
Motopsychoman - didn;t you tell me once that you replaced your oil lines with stainless, braided lines? I've been trying to source some ever since, and the only places I found are a shop in the UK that sells a complete kit with a cooler (pricey), or Earl's performance in IN. Where did you get yours?
i had an ek on my mx and had no problem, it may not be as good as a DID but is definitely a good alternative
I bought bulk braided hose (3/8" ID, I think) and some fancy Earls covers. Then I cut the old crimped clamps off, removed the old hoses, measured and cut the new ones to match. I think I had to remove the oil cooler with hoses to do this. I'll try to take a picture tomorrow and post it.
Thanks! I thought I would make my own, using the stock cooler mounts as they are not banjo. I also wanted to replace the ones behind the cylinder, as they are not too good either.
Looks like my cooler lines are 10mm OD, ~ 3/8" OD, so I probably used 3/8" hose. A couple of reasons I used the "fancy" hose clamps from Earl's instead of plain old hose clamps: 1) they look good; 2) they protect my fingers from that G"d awful braid; 3) the keep road crap from snagging on the clamp and braid. I didn't replace the rear lines as only these were leaking. NOTE: replace the crush rings anytime you remove those banjo bolts.
Thanks. I like the fancy clamp, as that will allow me to attach to the stock parts that I cannot buy (the non-banjo). My front lower banjos are corroded, so I'll be replacing those. Did you purchase the parts directly from Earl's in Indiana?
Just from the local speed shop. That way I could look at the parts. If you can't salvage the lower lines, you'll end up having to find your own banjo bolts. Maybe something like this https://holley.com/products/Plumbing/Hose_Ends/Swivel_Seal/parts/807691ERL but I do not know if 12M x 1.25 is the correct thread. It may be difficult. You might want to take the whole thing to a local custom hose shop (one that makes hydraulic lines) and they can do wonders. Normally $$ but not $$$. Some auto/marine speed shops will do this also ($$$). - Marty
Too bad there ain't a custom shop anywhere near me. Earl's Indy would take it in and make a replacement set if I send them the originals. The would ship it back within 48 hrs, which is amazing. But I'd like to make my own, so I'll just look for some AN fittings and a length of hose. The banjos are easy to sort out from Summit Racing, et cetera, but the other ends are harder to find. Thanks for all the info. I'll post in Bandits once I find where/what/how.
The 'other' cooler end is just a hose barb with a collar crimped over it. You can slide the hose directly over the barb and use a hose clamp ( or a pretty hose clamp ).
I was talking about the Y piece on the return lines. There is a Y at the bottom, and two flat faced connectors on top, mounted via two bolts. Those are hard to find.
Is it leaking? If so, is it the hose that is leaking? Is it one of the O-rings? I've had the O-rings leak. Change the hose and re-use all the funky pieces like I did on the front hoses. If the metal parts are shot, you will have to find an OEM replacement 11328-48B04, either new ($200) or try a cycle salvage resource. You can prowl on-line and they will go see if they have one used. Should be lots of these since the engine has been around for a very long time in some many models of bikes. Ones on Flea-Bay for $35 right now.
It's not leaking, but the rubber hoses are now 12 years old. So, let's call the swap preventive. I'll be doing Spiegler brake and clutch lines, new chain/sprockets, maybe powdercoating the frame, and doing the oil lines swap. The baby only has 11k on it, but it is older with unknown history, so my plan is to take it apart and check every connection, every bolt, et cetera. Not the engine itself, as it works well, but everything else. If I PC the frane, the motor will be out, so I may as well swap now whatever may need swapping later on.
If I were to buy the best chain for longest life, I'd buy a DID. I usually buy EK on eBay as I think it's a better bang for the buck, IMO. I always buy a gold chain - very little corrosion that way compared to natural steel. I'm sure the red colored chain is the same way. A flip I had not long ago had a green chain (didn't match anything) - stayed nice and clean though.
My local dealer always discourages me from buying DID chains. He claims that any yahoo can buy 1000ft of industrial chain from DID, a case of moto chain boxes, and start selling it as moto chain. He usually recommends Tsubaki, RK, EK, and others (of the good quality), but will happily sell lower quality chains as well, should my heart be set on it. I prefer to support the local shop vs buying online.
Lol - yeah, that's BS and applies to any brand of chain if it applies to DID. Not to mention, why would DID sell just empty boxes? It would all be counterfeit. Being on the internet doesnt mean it's shady - you should still buy from a reputable seller. Quality chains are all stamped every other link what style chain it is and the o or x-rings are visible. This is another reason I don't spend time at my local dealers - bad gouge.
