Howdy, Ive been out for a bit but Im back and rolling. I had to do that work thing. Im adding electrics and was wondering the best fuse block for the mony. I also need simple. There a lot out there. Opinions? 2002 1150GS
If I wanted an off-the-shelf fuse block, I'd probably get this one, since it has the relay built-in and you can choose to have your accessories either always-on or only on when the bike is powered: http://www.fuzeblocks.com/ Others like the Blue Seas or Centech models. They all do their job.
I'll place a vote against the fuzeblock. After all my research it seemed like thebobvious choice, so I ordered one and wired up four led lights to the switched side. I even took pictures the whole way through the install, hoping to write up a how-to on here. Once it was all finished I started the bike and turned on all the lights. It was brilliant! Satisfied, I shut it down. Shortly after I realized I hadn't taken a picture with all the lights on so I went back out. Turned the bike on and flipped the switches, but no lights came on. Instead I was met with the smell of burning. Apparently I toasted something on the switched side of the block. I'm afraid to try it on the constant side now, so I'm doing this roadtrip without aux lights, even though they're all installed and pretty. I don't think I exceeded the 30A limit, but I think my next block will be 60A regardless
I'm also in the fuse block market... but have decided on the PC-8. (search for "beaver" "+pc-8") after reading up on centech, fuzeblock, and others.. which all get high marks on this forum, and to each his own, i'm just drawn to the specific features the pc-8 offers. I will install it (as soon as I understand how to safely do so) and advise. via Tapatalk
I've had mine on two different bikes. My advice would be to go over what you've done. It's a 30A limit total, or 10A per circuit. High draw stuff (driving lights, etc) should go right to the battery. I have my Tourmaster plug wired to my Fuzeblock, but it only draws 6A max.
To go along with whichever flavor of fuse panel you decide, Tony DeLorenzo (Hotspice) from CYCLNUTZ has a powdercoated pre-bent plate that fits very nicely under the seat on top of the airbox just for the purpose. Makes for a very short run of primary wire from the battery to the panel. Just remember to install a main fuse in the positive line going to the panel.
I have this one and it works great. Very compact and clean install. There are relayed and always on circuits. Some circuits are 3 minute off delay. I like it better than the fusible blocks I have used in the past. Circuit breakers instead of fuses means no fussing with it if there is an overcurent. Just clear and cycle the power.
Thanks folks, Im still researching. When I finally chose should I hook up the charger tail direct to the battery? By the way, Im trying out the new Ballistic 12 cell.
It's the old plug and play deal. Tom Dowell of Excel Cycle Werkes built a Centech AP2 kit (picture: http://www.excelcyclewerkes.com/images/Excel_Centech.jpg ) for a bunch of BMW's You get the bracket for your ride, the AP2, and the wiring - lay it in place and it almost hooks itself up. http://www.excelcyclewerkes.com/index_files/Page672.htm Best thing is you start with the 1150 kit and if you change to a 12, it can move with you bracket & all - nice design. And he has pics & instructions - best deal going.
I'm a big fan of the eastern beaver supplemental power centers. It's far simpler than attaching eight wires to the battery positive terminal and trying to find clean ground locations on the frame. And splicing into the taillight wire as a trigger wire is not a big deal. I've had great success with his products over the years.
Centech and the Eastern Beaver PC-8. I like the both, but neither are simple to wire, (but not terribly difficult if you are comfortable with electrical) But the Excelcyclewerks kit sounds like it is as easy as it gets. I am intrigued by the Aerostich one though.
I thought Excel Cycleworks setup was the Centech wiring system. At least that's what they show on their website.
Have used Centech AP-1 on a couple R1150** bikes, and recently replaced one with the Aerostich PDM-60. The PDM, as already stated, is solid state and worry free, with a couple of features that I found worth the extra cost. One of the PDM's 15 amp outputs is switched via an extra wire that seeks ground; makes for simple installation of auxiliary lighting or heated gear outlet. And the PDM is weather resistant, which the Centech is not.
