From North Carolina to Albuquerque and back via California

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Dracula, Oct 15, 2014.

  1. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    Some people I know like to ride coast to coast in less than 50 hours. Others, have many months to enjoy the scenery and side trips off the main highways. I wish I was in the later group, but still felt fortunate with two weeks to spend, where I had the choice to either take it real slow and explore closer to home, or go to Albuquerque to see the balloon festival. At least that was my pretext for this trip. As it turns out, the route I did end up with is below. Totally random and unplanned. Last return leg is missing since I had set spotwalla tracker shorter by a day. I am sharing it here, for the pictures, which got better in the later part.


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    On the departure date, I did get a late start packing my gear, while weather was not too inviting with rain clouds covering the sky. Once underway, I found that updating the Garmin Montana with latest software the day of departure was not such a great idea after all, as it messed up the route calculation options. Few days later I found out why, it was set to only route me on small back roads while on occasions like that rainy night I actually wanted to make some time and log some distance to get away from the rain. It wasn't meant to be, but live and learn. So while I don't have any pictures for that day, my ride up to Asheville took me through route 74 which would have made for an excellent one, had it not been raining and night time.
    I end up in this hotel in Tennessee where morning sunrise over the mountain foothills gave a refreshing perspective on my trip:

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    From there on I picked Interstate 40 decided to make time. At lunch time I found myself near Nashville and compelled to find a place to eat. So off I40 and through a portion of the Natchez Trace parkway..


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    I find this place:

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    Trying the local specialty:

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    I push further on, forewarned of the heavy truck traffic and construction around Memphis area.. I make it just around sunset over the Mississippi river (I wish I had my camera ready crossing the bridge as it was a great view) and then I am in Arkansas

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    Time for night riding with just me and more trucks, through endless construction zone.

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    Eventually the day comes to a close with some good progress, in North Little Rock where my hotel for the day is found

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    #1
  2. STBNE

    STBNE Scooterrazzi

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    cool Victor...subscribed...:freaky
    #2
  3. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    Traversing Oklahoma on the interstate is fun...NOT.. but bearable with a nice set of tunes for the long, wind battered ride. Trucks own these roads! Once you are in the wake of big rigs going 75+ mph you either try to beat and pass them or stay well behind them. And when night sets I get rewarded with some of route 66 attractions

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    Fast forward, through a stop overnite in Amarillo, TX, I enter New Mexico. The temperature is a perfect 85F and not a single cloud in the sky.

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    After passing several modern gas stations on the way to Albuquerque, my GS reserve light comes on.. I look at the bicyclist I just passed and realize how brave these folks are. I saw them many places during this trip but the ones who always surprise me are taking definition of "road trip" to a whole new level. But since I don't want to become one that pushes the 600 lb loaded GS along the Interstate 40 or adjacent route 66 which parallels the highway for most of this length, I slow down until I finally reach a small gas station. Gas is 87 octane, but beggars can't be choosers.

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    I think about the people living in this place and wonder how life is out here where about the only action seen are travelers pulling off the main highway looking for gas and to cool off a little. Peaceful, for sure.

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    #3
  4. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    Glad to have you Ben!
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  5. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    For me, being on the road in a long trip creates this special state of being. It's not about burning the miles when you know there is a whole lot of them to get to interesting places, but more about being in tune and at peace with the whole motion thing you are immersed in. It becomes an experience of thoughts, senses, and introspection. Time is no longer measured and it feels great. Speaking with my friend who rode his GS from Raleigh to meet in Albuquerque, I sense this isn't the same for all of us. He is an achiever, a go getter, Iron Butt rider who has an agenda and wants to cross things off his bucket list. I may be the opposite. Although I can do the Iron Butt thing, I mostly find joy in riding some windy road back in North Carolina, stopping to speak with strangers and soaking it all in. As I also enjoy finding myself in places which names I don't readily know and observing the local life of people. But it is the strangers that never fail to provide most interesting interactions. Like the man whom I met in Oklahoma at a rest stop. He saw me pulling in the deserted parking, save for two helmet-less patched members riding Harleys who kept to their own. Someone told me it's not always wise to wave to riders, as those may be actually offended by it. Interesting. Back to my Oklahoma man, he watches while he shifts from one rest area picnic table to another until he gets real close to mine. I was already curious. He finally approaches and speaks with me. His name is Floyd. Farmer, originally from Texas, has lived most of his life in the area.I ask about tornadoes and am surprised to learn that wasn't his main concern. Earthquakes since the oil extraction - earth occasionally settling have caused him more problems at his house. Now he mentioned a 600 antique or classic cars or motorcycles someone owns, most in a rusted state, that he helps sell. I get it. Melba (the owner) still sends me mails with what she has. Who knows, if I was into that kind of hobby or business could turnout a gold opportunity. But for now am just living the moment.
    #5
  6. red bud

    red bud alky w/motorcycle problem Supporter

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    awesome fuquay varina, i had my dad on the back of a /5 i still own 81 or 82 had a blow out on the back tire, we went alittle left alittle futher right, more left, more right, now we're fishtailing into the other lane a tractor trailer has it's tires locked up. smoke boiling. we fish tail more left, more right back tire hits the grass & we slide into ditch he goes off the back i go over the handle bars. We look bac at each other. Are u ok, yea r u ok.

    now :lol3:lol3

    we hitch to town bmw dealer sends trailer, gets bike new tire, dad picks up 81 gs he'd traded for & still has :thumb

    anyway back to regular posted progaming, I've still got a airhead stashed in albqurque, thats a awesome area your in & super nice people


    ps. is bmw dealer still there?
    #6
  7. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    There is an Albuquerque dealer I went to, it is Sandia BMW. When they saw 113,000 miles on my GS clock were pleased. Sure this baby took me to Alaska and back and anywhere in between, with a little TLC from my part.
    I am really glad you are reading :deal
    #7
  8. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    So I realize Albuquerque was just a reason to ride and while I meet my friend there who rode his GS through Louisiana and El Paso, this is just another way point on the map.

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    After getting our rear tires replaced at the BMW dealer, several beers, and a good night sleep we set off to Santa Fe where we are led by smell and intuition to this central piazza...


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    where we check out the local life

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    Someone has to be keeping track of illegally parked vehicles..

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    and after we get our ice cream treats

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    and admire some more what is around

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    we move on eventually heading North
    #8
  9. red bud

    red bud alky w/motorcycle problem Supporter

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    thank u, i meant is there still a bmw dealer in fuquay verina?

    & good pic's
    #9
  10. STBNE

    STBNE Scooterrazzi

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    no BMW dealer in Fuquay...its been in Raleigh for years.....:deal
    #10
  11. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    as STBNE said, there isn't a BMW dealer in Fuquay Varina. I do all the work on my bike as far as it's no special tools. As I learned, there used to be a Moto Guzzi big warehouse few miles away, in Angier, but that moved.

    Thank you for reading. I also checked your thread and looks awesome, have to spend some time reading your adventures there
    #11
  12. BlueM00se

    BlueM00se 'Cuse LAX Fan Supporter

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    Wow! Great pictures!

    Thanks for sharing.
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  13. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    Thank you Dave! I am glad to share them, which also helps me reminisce the trip which went by real fast.
    #13
  14. Max Wedge

    Max Wedge ADVenture mowing

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    Good start to a good RR. I am enjoying it.
    How do you like the topbox for a rear seat? Do you notice a difference handling. I have thought about doing that to mine, but you lose the grab rails, correct?
    #14
  15. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    Thanks! I am glad you are liking it. The top box has become my de facto setup since I went to Alaska on a trip in 2012. It actually makes a huge difference in bike's stability, especially on gravel roads since it moves the weight to the bike center rather than it hanging high and outside the tail. It's also easy to remove and put the passenger seat back on if needed. I also wired it to charge all my stuff which sits on the top lid using a cocoon grid-it organizer. When I open the lid I can just unplug my cell or camera or whatever is charging there. I have to admit, expanded the top case holds quite allot and gets as heavy as almost having a small person on the back, but because of placement I don;t actually feel it's there. It also doesn't interfere with my riding and can be used to lean back on it as a back rest. You noticed right, the grab rails have to go and I took a long time to come up with a replacement from Touratech (it's called low rack iirc) off which I needed to saw cut the grab rails to allow the topcase setup to stay in pace and be removable. The rack is very sturdy and sits close to the bike, and it's enough to hold a Wolfman bag with tent, the sleeping cot and a small chair and motorcycle cover.
    #15
  16. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    Going North from Santa Fe up Rt 84 and then over the San Pedro Peaks, Rt 96 was a nice ride. It did get cold as afternoon was turning into evening.

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    and eventually although my friend who at one time used to be a truck driver could go it all night, I mentioned we'll be missing all the nice vista's and freeze as well, so there was no point in reaching a further destination which we haven't even predetermined. So time for a hotel, only our options weren't quite what I'd call abundant. There was also the once a year big annual Navajo fair which drew in allot people. We start a cell phone hotel booking app contest...

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    and we end up at a late hour in Aztec, NM at the "Enchanted Inn"

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    #16
  17. drdubb

    drdubb OFWG Supporter

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    Nice report...keep it coming.
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  18. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    Thank you!
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  19. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    That night we sat outside by the rooms and warmed up to a few shots of bourbon and smokes, while discussing things about life in general.
    The motel owner was quite an interesting character, at least for me. My friend had asked to see the rooms on our arrival, which triggered a mild adverse reaction from the owner. And although that could be standard practice, I didn't think we had or wanted really much of a choice, and although I personally had a tent, would not have gone looking at midnight for a camp site or other hotel for that matter. Sometimes you simply get what you can, or is it what you need as the song goes.. I have always believed that being flexible with accommodations and food on the road, as part of the experience, goes a long way to ensure enjoyment no matter what. But some demand always the very best.. to each his own. And to my mind, the difference of attitude in our head, makes the trip enjoyable or miserable. The motel man had told me his life story in a nutshell, how he started off in UK with only few bucks in his pocket, after marrying and having a life and raising children, came to the US and was growing old near his wife. He had original views on life from which I enjoyed drawing my own conclusions, and know that somehow, there is a Universal truth to everything. Including the stars which were brighter than ever in the cold night.
    #19
  20. Dracula

    Dracula Fat Griso & The Ape Supporter

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    I slept like a log and got up early. I made Turkish coffee which is about the only one of my weaknesses I can't give up while travelling. Can't start to function in the morning without a real strong cuppa coffee. So I carry this whole kit and ground coffee in my rear trunk. I bring water to a boil then put two teaspoonful's of sugar and about four of really fine ground coffee, stir a little, bring it to a boil (just about - and watch for it to not spill) and then let it sit few minutes before pouring it in the cup. It is delicious and STRONG. The little Jetboil stove is amazing and can be used to cook not just make coffee and one of those little propane tanks lasts for over a month if just occasionally used like this.

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    We head to grab some breakfast in Aztec and first find this place, closed

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    and then this

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    time to start rolling, the plan was to arrive at Canyon de Chelly in Arizona where I wanted to camp.

    We hit Shiprock right in the middle of the parade of all tribes gathering and there is a huge line o traffic. I pull over to get a cool drink and have a smoke, while my riding partner is loosing his patience I manage to make acquaintances with a family of Navajo.

    So we veer off the main route, dodging traffic taking a side road.. I stop to take these pictures and my fellow says he'll meet me at four corners...

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    Once I get to four corners, take the obligatory picture of yours truly, with the help of a passer by

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    We text each other and my friend says he's heading for Colorado and then LA. So I continue on my planned route alone.

    Canyon de Chelly is a less known and less touristy attraction than the Grand Canyon, with allot less amenities, but the views are majestic. And the solitude. Merely a few cars with visitors, and mostly the local natives selling little souvenirs but not in an obtrusive way.There are two hotels in Chinle, the small town from where a short 30 minute ride brings one to the Canyon rim, which has nice parking at all the vista points. Here are a few views

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    can you see the car down there?

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    #20