the DR650 thread

Plastic body parts are kinda expensive, you almost have to grit your teeth and bare it. Might luck out and find someone with used excellent condition plastic after a change of color scheme. None of the aftermarket plastic makers make anything for Dual Sports, just the race bikes.

How is that R6 throttle tube working out? I've wanted a quick turn throttle for my DR but I've read mixed reviews on how that R6 tube fits and functions with some experiencing sticking (idle stop) issues.

Tech23

In addition to purchasing regular maintenance parts for all my bikes, I used Service Honda when I converted my 2004 CRF 150 into a 230. I gave them all the part numbers, I called them and they double checked my work before placing the order.

They must be a big establishment, to have Tech's that hand build those awesome CR 500AF's and a few more custom bikes too.

Tech23

Just a few I've used:
http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/fiche_select.asp
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/home.aspx
Babbit's have some of the best prices but shipping is sky high.

Last time I needed Suzuki OEM parts I went to a tiny independent shop ... who don't work on bikes, just sell gear and accessories. I get a good discount there ... and they can order anything from Suzuki via Parts Unlimited or Tucker Rocky. They matched Babbit's price, but I had to pay CA sales tax. Over all, I saved about 10% over Babbit's price, which are some of the lowest I have found for OEM Suzuki parts. Go support your local shop and ASK for a discount!

Also try Ron Ayer's:
http://www.ronayers.com/Fiche/TypeI...earID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/7820/Model/DR650SE

What are you guys doing to reduce handlebar vibrations?

I recently switched to the Fly Aluma-Steel 7/8" bars and vibrations get a bit strong. I want to stay with 7/8" bars as I already have the HDB Clamps for them.. Did purchase just a moment ago the Vibranator (www.vibranator.com), are there any other things I could use as well? Do they make rubber pads for the bar mounts?

There is a special vibration reduction adjuster to the right of the speedometer. Turn it 1 notch to the left of the normal use setting and all of the vibrations just disappear.

dont sweat ot my friend and no one is judging you. we have all been there! lol good luck with it.

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2

A story from a good mate who does among other things, suspension setup professionally. He was working for the Yamaha Aus road race team a few years ago, doing suspension and rider 'coaching'. Must have been about Jan/Feb 2006 when the then new Yam R6 came into their hands and they were at Eastern Creek testing in preparation for the season.

He had previously installed, among other things, the latest Ohlins fork kit to suit and was amazed that the single bolt bottom triple clamp was specced by Ohlins at 10 nm. 16nm is stock, which isn't a lot, and 10 is not much more than finger tight. He confirmed with Ohlins in Sweden that it wasn't a typo.

For safety sake, and for intial testing, he set the torque at 16 nm. His riders came in to the pits and the main feedback was that they weren't getting enough feel from the front end. We're talking national championship podium level riders, so they are fast, and know what they need.

The bikes were wheeled to the garage and the only changes made were to reduce the torque settings on the bottom triple clamp. The riders were not told what was changed each time, just go and have another go. 16-14-12 and when they went from 12 to 10, the Ohlins spec, the riders were happy, as were the crews. They were suddenly on or below lap record pace bringing the lap times down 3/4 secs and could feel the front end.

2 nm and nothing else, no clickers, nothing else!

Bike setup can be tricky, just ask Vale and JB.

Steve

Everyone has there own experience. Here's how it went for me: For the first year or so I rode with stock bars. Vibes not too bad, IMO. When I added Tusk Bark Busters I had to lose the stock Suzuki bar end weights.
At that point I could feel MORE vibration.

The standard solution from experienced riders was to go to an Aluminum Fat Bar of some kind. I went with the 1" 1/8" ProTaper Fat bar. Others promised with the ProTapers you would not need the bar ends. I was sceptical, but I was wrong. Far less vibration with the ProTaper bars. Aluminum somehow transmits less vibes to the hands than steel. Something about density or something. This was without any bar ends at all.

BTW, did you know your Suzuki ALREADY HAS A BUILT IN RUBBER DAMPER SYSTEM? If you lose the stock lower bar clamp and the internal rubber dampers ... you've just screwed yourself. If you need risers you can use them, but leave the lower clamp and dampers alone. They work.

I've never used "Vibranators". Sounds like Snake Oil, but who knows?

I have no idea, my local dealer found it. I know they had two, one was a '12 and my '11.

I'm re-using my stock bar end weights on the aftermarket bars. I drilled them out to accept the larger diameter bolts that are used by the bark busters.

That is, as soon as I can locate a longer bolt that secures the bark busters.

Here's some nice, USA made, anti-vibration inserts:

http://www.highwaydirtbikes.com/HDB_Shop/index.php?app=ccp0&ns=prodshow&ref=Th_insert_av

Aluminum bars vibrate much less than steel does also...

channel locks go the other way to cinch when slip occurs , but you might know that and want it to slip

I got one (5SL-26240-01) from ronayers.com, 2006 Yamaha R6 (with a matching left grip). I didn't have any of the fitment problems that others have reported -- it was plug 'n play. Just had to adjust the throttle pull cable to its maximum length. It's a very worthwhile, cost-effective modification for a street-ridden DR.

Found on several bikes in the barn that when you run a little too much pressure in the tires, the front cups quicker and the rear gets a nice flat spot down the middle much sooner. Figured out that it doesn't help to have too much pressure.

Just start at what Suzuki says and raise ONE TIRE about 2 psi and ride a while to see if you like it. If that helps, do the other tire up 2 psi and ride. That's how it's done for me. I carry the bicycle pump and air gauge all the time.

Dave

I'm going to agree with you on that front tire observation - but my experience was after running a front tire low (like, at 18 psi) on a streetbike for a good while, then finally checking the pressure and upping it... so i wasn't sure if that was what caused the cupping.

Thanks guys, I am probably headed 174 miles north to buy my first DR650 in about 14 hours here... I will remember the input your guys gave and not over-pressure the tires.

I'm nervous about it because it certainly isn't a set-up bike like all the recent DR's that have been sold through the ADVrider Flea market recently (so I'm looking at investing more money into it for suspension, seat, bars, luggage of some sort, chain sprockets, tires, etc.), but it is mechanic-owned, a 2002, and the whole reason he owns the bike is because the previous owner gave up on it after the base gasket leaked badly after an overfill of oil... so it purportedly has the new-style metal-like base gasket on it. I hope to get the bike for under $2800 or so... aftermarket exhaust, jetted, and that's about all of the mods I think.

Thanks sage, If you let the throttle snap back under it's own spring pressure it doesn't want to stick at idle? I sometimes wonder what was done to cause the malfunction during the install. Some have reported a difference in the two throttle tubes and some have found grinding on it necessary. I can't seem to get any clear cut answers. Wouldn't happen to have any pictures comparing the stock DR throttle tube to the R6 tube would you? I suppose the part is only available with the grip already mounted to the tube. Is the R6 grip is glued on, I would rather mount my Pro grips to the new throttle tube. I would be nice if Pro Cycle would offer a plastic version of their (aluminum) quick turn throttle specifically for the DR 650. Does the R6 part have flanges molded into the tube at each end for grip retention like the stock DR tube?

Tech23

Interesting Steve thanks, These were inverted forks I'm sure...I could see improper (over) torque binding things up for sure. From what I've gathered over the years is the major difference between a race bike and production bikes (besides exotic materials) is closer tolerances.

Over the years in the auto industry I have seen product recalls for nothing more than checking or changing a specific torque value for a specific fastener.

Tech23

Yep, USDs.

Its common to see USDs over tightened, Blue torque as noted previously, or BFT (Bloody F**** Tight) and that of course crushes the outer tube and if nothing else, results in a tight spot when the inner tube bush goes past and puts a 'spike' in the fork's travel. It also helps to have all the threads clean and lubed to get accurate torque settings, especially for low torques.

Steve

I figured if the bit seized in the drilling process the slippage would save my wrist from snapping.

So this being said, what would be the torque spec for the triple clamps on my '03 Rm 125 forks I swapped out onto my 650? I can't say that they're not currently blue torqued with a short wrench. Which I'm guessing is extremely incorrect after all the previous posts. :eek1