I thought torque_monster was here on adv (diff name maybe), he has a pair for $160 on the ktmtalk classifieds. Always check there, good stuff shows up often. There was a brand new pair for a good price for ages, seem to have gone now.
If you are even remotely handy, it's pretty simple to rewind the stock stator with ~$20 worth of wire. I used this howto.
Danger Will Robertson: " 3: Upgrade to 18 gage wire, completely rewiring the entire stator and maxing out every pole: increases wattage slightly (20%) and allows extra current capability with stronger magnets. 16 gage wire will simply not fit onto the poles in sufficient amount. 95 watts +, $6 for motor wire, $40 for the R/R" You want the most output at a given rpm range. Putting the most wire you can on each pole doesn't get you this. I know this from personal experience. After I did it, Luke clued me in. He knows the supposed ideal # turns per pole, it's not the above.
I was going to mention the ones crazybrit is talking about KTMtalk as well. $80 per side. There is a dealer here in Alberta that claims to have a pile of used RFS parts. A&E Marine is the place. Might be worth a phone call.
Interesting. I would like to know the ideal number of winds, I still need to rewind the stator on my wife's 450 exc.
Based on StmbtDave's hard work and a bit of EE theory from me: For general use, 400 turns of 18ga wire is about ideal. Especially if you're going to spend a lot of time at low speed with the fan running (traffic or trail). If you are going to spend a lot of time at speed and want to power a lot of gear, use 16ga wire and fit as many turns on as you can. Dave got 336 turns on his and said it worked really well for him running a headlight, heated grips and a vest. If you are rewinding but for some reason don't want a lot of power, fill the stator with 18ga. That'll take a little over 500 turns. Dave measured around 85 watts output at peak output, so if you don't need much power you can do this to keep the regulator unstressed. As always, whatever you do will work better if you bypass the stock wiring harness and connect the regulator directly to the battery (through a fuse, please).
hi guys! would anyone have a spare front wheel hub for sale? or any info on used ones for sale? OEM or aftermarket would be fine I'm building a bike with forks off of a 2003 525EXC. just need the hub to finish off the front end I can't afford new and been unlucky in finding used ones thanks in advance!
You need to post Wanteds on the flea market. Dems da rules. Sorry! They show up all the time on KTMTalk classifieds but shipping to the UK is going to be so spendy that I'd have thought you'd be better off looking on ktmforum.co.uk or ebay.co.uk ....... Getting a rear cush is the hard one, everything else is easy, just be aware of axle sizing changes and mag vs mechanical speedo.
1. Does anyone know for the long oil screen if the larger hole goes into the bolt, or into the motor (one end has a larger hole than other). It fits either way. Maybe it makes no difference? Question from crazybrit. I looked at the manual when I changed the screen, and the photo led me to believe that the large end is to the outside. I stand to be corrected though! I have done about 600k since, so I hope I was right.
Mine has the IMS also (3.1 gallons?). I couldn't fit a computer fan between the tank and radiator, on either side. I figured out the computer fan "pushes" better than it "pulls" anyway, so it's mounted to the front side of the radiator, between the rad and Devol guard.
Weird. When I had an IMS I had no problem getting a PC fan behind (until it got snagged on a branch and cracked the case). Have a Clarke now so run the OEM spal.
Seems pretty good. I cleaned the old filter oil off the rim with mineral spirits but the instructions call for contact cleaner so I used that which made the rag black, so I assume it was doing something good in terms of prepping the surface . They include a small test scrap of the adhesive backed neoprene so you can verify good adhesion before committing the final product, nice touch. I marked it in place with masking tape then did the 50/50 trick. Surface is rough so I expect in addition to it's squishyness, it'll grip the filter well, we shall see in 2300 miles. I bet if you can find a sheet of the material you could make same with a paper template, an xacto knife and some patience. Talking to the wrench at KTM Northwest, wide end of the long screen goes into the motor, narrow end goes into the bolt though it doesn't make a huge diff. Wavy/pleated filter is a sign (if you're not puking out of the weep hole) of revving the bike when the motor/oil is cold, so don't do that I also did my most favorite thing this weekend, installed the ProMotoBillet rack-it rack. I took it off my 05 when I sold it. Apparently installing for a second time is no easier than the first, or maybe I'm just getting old. Anyways, since it comes up in discussion every so often I thought I'd post some pics of the two arms that reinforce the subframe, one of the pluses of the design (installation isn't one of them). Fits my 07 much better, subframe must have been tweaked on the 05.