I got this new to me bike, needed the valves adjusted off the bat. Got the Service Manual, did the adjust. Screwed it up. What I did: found the TDC scribe line on in the inspection hole. Adjusted valves. What I should have done: Found TDC on the compression stroke. Valves are probably all way out of spec now, and I'm trying to figure out how to find the compression stroke. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow; how do I know where I'm at? Both sets of valves' lowest clearance should be bang, so do I turn three revolutions past that to find where I need to be? Edit: Watching the valve train and engaging the brain. Not three turns, half turn? Intake valves open, exhaust closed on intake downstroke, both close comp upstroke, ignition at top of compression up stroke, valves closed power downstroke, exhaust opens for upstroke?
Is there a point in the life of the valve train where components wear too far to obtain proper clearance? I think that I have the left exhaust valve backed up all the way, but I can't get any significant gap. I'm confused.:huh Bike has 11,500 miles on it.
When the cam lobes are pointed AWAY from the tappet, you're good. Edit: Just remembered the DR350 has the tappets OVER the cams, not under.
I've never wasted my time looking for timing marks to adjust valves, It's just too anal. It's pretty obvious what part of a cam is the base circle.
Pull the plug, put your finger over the hole. When it blows air on your finger you're on the compression stroke.
Last night was just not a good one for me to be out in the garage, I was definitely not running 100%. I'm going to try again tonight, hopefully it goes smoother. Would still appreciate tips on finding TDC compression stroke, can't see the cams.
It's been a while since I had my DR but let me see if I can't remember this procedure. You're already familiar with finding the TDC scribe line. Now you need to determine where the piston is when the scribed line is visible. Another inmate mentioned pulling the plug and putting your finger over the hole. You can also put something, like a pencil (un-sharpened), in the plug opening. So, find the TDC scribe line. If the pencil goes most of the way in (don't drop it!), the piston is not on the compression stroke. Rotate the crank until the TDC scribe line appears again. Now, the pencil should not go in very far. You're now at TDC on the compression stroke and can adjust the valves. Additionally, both rocker arms should be "loose". That is, they will both 'rock' back and forth a little bit (although, considering you previously messed with the adjusters, they may not). Also, I hope you have the special Suzuki tool for adjusting the valves. It makes it so much easier to hold that tool while you tighten the lock nut. I looked thru my archives and found this (copied from MaximumSuzuki a while ago): Go to the parts store and buy 2 feeler gauge sets. (You will need 2 feeler gauges for the intake and 2 feeler gauges for the exhaust as you will need to set both intakes and both exhausts at THE SAME TIME. You will want to bend the last inch of the feeler gauges so they will fit into place easily. Go to suzuki and buy part # 09917-14910. It is a 6 dollar tool that is designed for adjusting the valves. It's worth its' weight in GOLD! The rest is simple. Remove the two plugs on the left side of the engine case. One is in the middle and one is at the front. They are both allen wrench fittings. The one in the middle will expose a 19mm nut on the crank and you can insert a socket to turn the motor. The plug on the front exposes the timing mark for viewing. With the valve adjustment covers removed rotate the crank nut counter clockwise and watch the rocker arms. When you see the intake rockers starting to close start looking for the timing mark. It should be a line with a T. Line up the timing mark in the center of the window and then check the intake and exhaust rockers to make sure there is a little bit of play in them. If there is no play you may need to rotate the crank 360 degrees to move you from the exhaust stroke to the compression stroke. Once you get the motor at Top Dead Center on the timing mark, AND you have play in the rockers then you can check the existing clearance. If necessary change the adjustment until you have a slight drag on the feeler gauges and ALSO pull on both feeler gauges at the same time and make sure they both have an equal amount of drag on them. Set the intakes at: 0.05 - 0.10 mm (0.002 - 0.004 in.) Set the exhaust at: 0.08 - 0.13 mm (0.003 - 0.005 in.) NOTE: I have seen different exhaust valve clearance measurements posted. Some say 0.007 - 0.009 in. You may want to check in the DR350 thread in the Thumpers forum to double check. The settings (above) are what's in my shop manual. If you'd like a PDF of the Maintenance chapter (Chapter 2) that outlines the entire procedure, send me a PM with your email address. Skip, You can have the adjustment ports off and not see the cam on a DR350/S/SE. I thought you had a DR (??).
Thanks Bronco. I did mine the other day, and they were really tight, going to recheck them tonight to make sure i was on the compression stroke.
Thanks Bronco, that's just about what I needed. I'm a little confused by your pencil method. You say that when the piston is at TDC on the wrong stroke the pencil will drop in. I would think that TDC is the same piston position no matter what cycle the engine is on?
4 strokes. intake compression power exhaust piston will be at TDC right between compression/power strokes, and also between exhaust/intake strokes. you want to adjust valves when its at TDC between the compression/power strokes ( both valves closed) when the valves are fully closed is the most clearance between valve stem and rocker/follower http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RbrVR6Tm8Vk
Don't stick a pencil in the plug hole, you'll end up breaking it off in there and be in real trouble If these things aren't obvious to you, buy the manual, do what it says. It has a foolproof step-by-step with pictures and everything. It is possible as a general matter for stuff to wear enough that you can't get it adjusted correctly, but probability of this happening on a DR is pretty much nill. It'd take a million miles to get that much wear I'd think. Top end stuff can break or be damaged by oil starvation though. A bent deck screw upside down works just dandy as a substitute for the Suzuki special tool.
I used to have one. When it was time to check the valves, I discovered it really wasn't worth it. Here's the inside of the valve cover. Probably worth checking whenever you adjust the valves, just to make sure it doesn't look the same.
Yeah BP, I figured someone would call me out on that.... Man, that looks like oil starvation. Yeah, not worth trying to adjust that.
what if i had play on the exhaust rocker but none on the intake side ?? :huh if i remember corectly when i did it past week, i took off the intake cover found the t mark and went further away but the intake valve where already opening up so figured out i should do an other full turn... was i wrong ? :eek1
Bring the crank to the T mark, then rock it back and forth while looking at the rockers. If they move, you're on the wrong stroke. When you're on the compression stroke, they will remain still when the crank is rocked back and forth.
Maybe you could explain what you did to get it right? There are probably others with the same confusion.
