Question for the crowd: I have a 1994 KLR and it had a sstock 260mm front rotor I ordered a new Wave rotor and it is 280mm and it does not fit from what I have found 280mm was 1995 and up. Is this true? I am wondering if I can just get a 1995+ calaper and keep the larger rotor or find an adapter. or should I just find a stock 1994 rotor. Thanks for your help.
Wow, that's a first! I've never seen someone try to improve air flow by cutting a hole between the air filter and carb. What a moron. Nice hack job.
Thinking about going to a 685. A little port work and 3-angle is a no-brainer, but I was wondering... Do the hot cams make any real difference? Did you rejet the stock carburetor or replace it with something else? Thanks!
Hey Bubba, easy to get confused with all the misinformation out there, but I just looked and Patman's dyno results were based on a 2004 (first gen) KLR: http://www.patmanracing.com/klrdyno.htm
I bought my '96 with the same "mod". It's probably a "California Legal" bike the previous owner thought would benefit from a little more airflow. I fixed my airbox with a piece of tin and a fat bead of silicone. I also rejetted the carb and got a new pipe. The proper way to get a bit more snap!
Wow he didn't really manage to get a significant improvement even after all those mods. And it looks to be closer to 34hp at the rear wheel
2007 KLR: I planned a long dual sport ride with my 19YO son yesterday. We rode 10 miles to a gas/breakfast stop. When I came out, the KLR wouldn't give the slightest hint of catching. It cranked great. Trying to bump start made no different. I verified fuel was flowing. I pulled the tank & seat to get the plug out. The plug looked great, but there was zero spark. I could even grab the plug when cranking. So.... Recognizing that I have done zip to trouble shoot the problem so far.... What are common problems that would result in sudden & total loss of ignition? If the clutch interlock switch dies, could it allow the starter to move, but not disable the coil? I've been meaning to bypass this switch for a while, but I really need the bike running first to verify I've cut/shorted the proper wires. Not all was lost for the day. I buzzed home on my son's DR350 and came back with the orange bike and trailer. We still got in a good ride.
Main fuse under the seat? Bad or unpluged rectifier? just guessing with ya! I just sold my orange bike!
Yeah, I should start with the really simple stuff. I'll check fuses. Not sure if the ignition module has a fused supply or not, but I'll look. BTW, who has the secret recipe for disabling the clutch switch? Cut the green wire? No... red wire..... aaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! (BOOM) At least I have the tank off now for running the 12gage supply to the front of the bike for powering the 55W HID. (HID dislike voltage drop, so I always start with a fresh run of low gage wire)
ifirc you can jump it with a mini at fuze...you may have to file the "legs" a bit to get it to fit. i just made a jumper for mine. easy peasy.
It won't be either the clutch or side stand interlocks they won't allow the bike to crank at all. If all the fuses are good, check the connections for the coil and ignition. Defiantly check and see of the kill switch is working properly.
If I remember correctly, the "kill" switch won't allow power to the starter either. This is a spin over, no start condition???
It looks like the kill switch is double pole. One pole to enable/disable the starter, another pole to enable/disable the starter. BTW, I looked under the seat and all of the fuses have been replaced with breakers. I'll check them out to see if they are good. Dumb question: Where is the CDI unit located? I see the regulator/rectifier behind the battery. Another tantalizing clue: When the bike was warming up yesterday, I noticed the LED tail light was flickering. It doesn't flicker with the engine off.
I can't be certain on the KLR....(i'm going to check when I get home) but on my friends Honda you can crank the engine with the kill switch off....don't ask me how I know
'07 and earlier ignitions are powered by ALTERNATING CURRENT from the exciter coil of the stator; no rectifier need apply! Ignition circuit is not fused. Kill mechanism, both kill switch and OFF ignition switch, ground exciter coil lead to CDI. So, to get spark, you gotta have un-grounded lead from alternator to CDI; forget battery, forget rectifier, forget fuses for the ignition circuit, none apply. Only alternating current from the exciter coil of the alternator powers the CDI to produce spark. Google, "KLR650 Wiring Diagram" for wire color code (save you some research, looks like it's RED http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.comicsbeat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Kawasaki-KLR650-color-wiring-diagram.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.comicsbeat.com/2011/07/22/the-watchtower-comic-con-do-it-yourself-edition/kawasaki-klr650-color-wiring-diagram/&h=2400&w=3000&sz=693&tbnid=Ozn5HLbu-6yOZM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=113&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dklr%2B650%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=klr+650+wiring+diagram&docid=bRz62MfRAStQPM&sa=X&ei=tb-VT8XSAaLD6AHPyummBA&ved=0CDgQ9QEwAQ&dur=640 ); tracing appropriate wires with a multimeter might locate the problem. Otherwise, the Service Manuals, Kawasaki and Clymer, have resistance matrices for testing the CDI (though substitution with a known good CDI's a more efficient and less frustrating test). In RUN position, + 12 VDC is connected to the starter button, and . . . the exciter coil lead to the CDI is ungrounded. In OFF position, 12 VDC to the starter button is interrupted, and the exciter coil lead to the CDI is grounded. CAVEAT: Electrical comments in this post apply to GENERATION 1 KLR650's with CDI (capacitive discharge ignitions); not necessarily to GENERATION 2 ('08 and later) KLR650's with 12 V DC-powered FTBI ("fully-transistorized breakerless ignitions").
You did verify that the kill switch by the throttle was in the run position, right? I've seen that happen to people....
As several folks have already mentioned, the kill switch also disables the starter. I would not be able to crank it over if the kill switch was off. I'm going to start checking backwards from the coil connections to make sure it's not grounded somewhere. Once all of that checks out, I will start looking at stator resistances. As suddenly and as totally as it died, I'm thinking it's a shorted/open connection somewhere, or the CDI died.
