C Stanley Motorsports GS Trail reducers

We have done some upgrades on our trail reducer since last posting here. The design is still the same as far as dimensions go though.
Since there was an incident reported here related to what we felt was a ball loosening up on another manufacturers product which I feel was no fault of his we just decided to go the extra mile to produce what we feel is a better, even though not needed, upgrade to our product.
Note that I even the other manufacturer to say that I felt it was not the fault of his product that caused to incident for what that is worth.
Anyhow,,,,,,,
OUR new version has the same layout as our previous one but has a steel insert that the ball will thread into so it is no longer a steel to aluminum connection. We have also gone to 7075 aluminum instead of 6061 aluminum. Yes, it is a little more costly to produce but we are offering it at the same price as our earlier version. This is, as before, a CNC machined part built to OUR specifications.
Hopefully the picture below will make sense.

I recently installed Claude's trail reducer on my 1150GS/Ural rig, and it made a HUGE difference. It still drives like a drunk atv, but now it's easy to go with the flow and gently guide it between the lines, instead of having to muscle it down the road. I hate to be cliche', but it's like someone fixed the power steering.

The reducer is a nicely machined piece. Installation was straightforward -easy for anyone that has removed a set of forks before. The Clymer manual helped a lot though.

I used a brand new ball joint ($135 from Max BMW), rather than risk damaging the original removing it. Make sure to replace the top nut on the ball joint-- that's a one time use part.

Now to just save up for some Stroker wheels...

Howdy Claude,

That is a very nice looking part, I like that it now has steel threads for the steel ball threads to mesh with.

I have your competitors rake reducing triple tree made to his original design, it dropped the front of my bike dramatically. He has since supplied me with a spacer made from steel that screws into the original lower raked triple tree. I installed the spacer, loc-tited the heck out of it but still am not confident in the steel verses aluminum threads in this particular application.

Now that the history is out of the way, a question for you. Using your raked triple tree with the riser built into it, have you experienced a problem with the front of the rig dropping on your customers rigs?

Using a raked lower triple tree much like the one you are now building resulted in the front end of my bike dropping. Am "I" the only one who has this problem, and yes I can read a tape measure and can see that front of my bike still sits lower then it did when stock even with the spacer installed on the raked lower triple tree. Any information you can provide would be most appreciated. Thanks.

It will drop slightly but not much. The built up portion pictured make a big difference from the original types out there this is why WE designed it this way. Dimensions need to be changed slightly over what earlier designs by others were to prevent gaining the trail back that was originally reduced by prior designs. If you were to install one of Dave BG's tele levers along with this your small drop in ground clearance would rise back up some if that is what you wish.