Going to purchase some tire irons to keep in my Suzuki DR650se tool holder. Have several questions. How many will I normally need to remove a tire, in case of a flat ontheroad and what length is normally used? Is it advisable to also purchase a device to get the front or rear tire off the ground for changing? Suggestions appreciated.
Big ones are easier to use, but small ones work fine and hopefully you won't need to be using them at all! Here's a pic I swiped off the net: The image came from this page: http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/tire/index.htm Somewhat informative and figured since I am posting his image may as well give his page credit. Anyway, smaller ones are harder to use but larger ones can ruin a tire easier, so pick your poison. Traditionally you need 3 irons, if you are just learning that is what I suggest. Personally I find that I use a screwdriver for more things that I use the tire irons so I only have 1 iron and I use a couple of screwdrivers but I poked enough holes in things in my early days to where I pretty much don't do that anymore but until you get comfortable using irons I'd say keep 3 in your tool kit.
Thanks for the reply. I just ordered two 8.5" irons from Motion Pro along with the Buddy II Bead Breaker. I have changed many bicycle tires in my lifetime but no motorcycle tires. I will just add a wider blade screwdriver to the mix. I wouldn't think the tires on the DR650 wouldn't be all that difficult considering the small size of tires. Personally, I hope I never have to change a flat tire on a motorcycle, but I don't want to be left without the means to do it if in an emergency, like I am out on a long long lonely paved road with no shade and 120 degress with no water. I also carry towing on my insurance policy. Maybe I will still be alive when the tow truck gets there. lol. I guess I could just lay the bike over and remove the wheel to fix the flat. Kind of awkward I would think and I might have a gas leaking problem from the gas tank cap. Not like just turning your bike over on it's seat and handlbles..
I made my 3rd leg off road jack stand from two length of aluminum pipe,others have made the same from old crutch bottoms, and there is some where on this ADV site a fellow that makes/sells same, which if no one else joins in, I can try to find , or I can send you pics of what I made My longer tire spoon has the box end wrench that I use for rear axle nut , super nice. gale
Thanks for the great response to my questions. I have just ordered the bike jack from Enduro Star, new tire irons and Buddy II bead breaker from Motion Pro, I think I have bought enough today already. Now if I have a flat on the road, maybe I could find somebody (preferably, a tire changing geek) that would fix my flat with all the neat tools and devices I have. This is a great site. All my questions answered and problem solved. Life is good. Thanks
Don't forget an air pump. 12volt if you have the space, or a bicycle pump zip tied to the frame if you want to conserve weight and space (and get a good work out). Forget the CO2 cartridges...they'll leave you stranded at some point.
I use the same irons. Clean any burrs or crappy stamping flash with a file or flap wheel before you need them in BFE. Since you have only done bicycle tires you need to know the trick that most first timers struggle with. Pull the bead outside the rim on both sides for mounting and dismounting and use lots of lube. I use silicon spray or Armor all but most use soapy water or spray cleaner.
Flashmo, I do have a Slime Air Pump that I carried when traveling with my Harley so will use that for the DR. Stumpalong, thanks for the tip on removing the bead on both sides of the tire. Will probably carry a small bottle of shampoo that the motels provide for slicking up the bead. The shampoo might also be good for finding a leak in the tube. Carrying all this tire changing stuff may be a good thing, it usually turns out that I may never have a flat because I am ready for it. I just had my Indy put on two new Trail Wing tires and IMS heavy duty tubes last week. All of this preparation is for a planned ride through NW New Mexico and SW Colorado in early to mid September. Will be doing very little dirt riding, mainly a scenic eye candy trip. Could take my Harley for a comfortable ride but I welcome the challenge of riding a dual sport.
Get the motion pro 16'' tire iron. Its awesome. I've mounted mine to my bike under a plastic side cover and you can't even tell its there. I'll add my .02 cents given I recently experienced a flat. I picked up a 2 inch dry wall screw while doing some trail riding. It entered the wheel at a right angle. Tire completed flatted and void of all air. The screw punctured both sides of the tube in numerous places rendering the tube un-patchable. I too have changed dozens of MTB and road bike tubes and pretty good at it as I could patch a bike wheel during a triathlon and only lose about 5 minutes. Well, let me tell you something. Dual sport tires are different. Significantly different elements to deal with. My tips for first time flat: (Not a complete step by step method. Just some tips that worked for me.) - You just flatted. Accept that your ride plan is forever altered for that day. Do not be in a rush to get this thing fixed/patched. Tell your buds they are welcome to stay, but I recommend they go get lunch and give you an hour to make the repair. That way they are not standing over your shoulder rushing you to make the repair. You just need to accept that this will not be a quick fix and go issue. You need to take your time and do it right the first time or you can find yourself stranded. Things might be different once you get experienced at this repair. But, for your first puncture, you need a clear head and lots of time. - I have the motion pro 16" tire iron, plus two smaller ones. The 16'' iron does all the heavy prying and work. The other two pretty much hold the work. I mounted the 16" iron in parallel to the frame of my bike with a hose clamp. I then put the stock plastic cover (XR650L) over it. You can't see it and its securely held in place. The 16" motion pro iron has a great bend design to it. Also provides excellent leverage. - Keep the bar soap from your next hotel visit. The hotel shampoo is a good idea, but I actually use the soap bar. Once the tire is separated, I rub the soap bar around the rim. It helps when you have to pry the tire back onto the wheel after repair. Also, helps the bead settle in evenly. (Tough to do without compressed air. So, the soap bar smeared on the rim and bead will help.) - My XR650L has a 21'' front and 18'' rear. I carry only a 21'' front tube. My most recent flat was in the 18'' rear. The 21'' worked fine in the rear. Once I got home, I replaced it with correct size. - I change tubes with the sprocket side down. You don't want your brake disc surface down, on the ground, getting bent or scratched by rocks. So, keep it facing up. - Put a little air in the tube before prying the bead down to aid in avoiding pinch flats. - Seems silly, but make sure you have axle wrenches that fit your bike. My XR650L uses a different size on each side. - if you patch instead of replacing your tube, test the tube for a secondary leak before putting it back in the rim. The screw that got me last time put dozens of micro holes in the opposite side of the tube. I patched one side only to realize the other side was leaking beyond repair. So, even after I though I made a successful patch, I realized the tube would not hold air due to the numerous holes. - Remove the screw or nail and inspect the inside surface of the tire before putting the replacement tube back in. - Reinserting the valve stem is significantly harder on a MX than on a MTB. Some have suggested pulling both sides of the tire bead off near the stem to gain access. I just fish around with my fingers until I can get the valve in. - Again, take your time and have a clear head. When you flat, you are going to be pissed. But, get over it and make sure your repair is correct the first time. Again, as I suggested, I tell my riding partners to continue their day and come back in an hour. That gives me plenty of zin to focus on the repair with no distractions or well intentioned helpers.
TN3Sport, I appreciate the informtion you provided on a first time tire changer. Makes sense that whatever caused the flat will also damage the tube in more than one place. The soap bar is a good idea for lubricating the bead. I am on my way to Sears to pick up a 19MM and 24MM box end wrench that fit the nuts on my DR650. I see where Pro Cycle case the same wrenches but with spoons on the other end. Pricey but a great idea. Serves as dual usage of a tool. Since I have already bought the tire irons I am going to pass on the 16" tire iron, although I see the usefullness of a tool of that size.
Here's another suggestion - watch all three parts of Doug's video a few times and with notebook in hand. Make a checklist of the key points and tuck the list in with your tools. Be sure to bold face " make sure the bead opposite the side your working on is pushed down into the well." I found the "three tools to start" and "inserting two tools at the very end" to be VERY helpful. Good luck! Here's the first vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0B2gIwbBg Laugh or cry, the day's the same.
Sounds like most of us at one time or another. Find someone who has done it before and take one off and do it in the comfort of your home, so an on the road change will not be so intimidating. It's not if, it's when.
Okay, if I am just changing a flat and not the tire, do I still have to completely remove the tire or can I just break the bead on one side, pull out the innertube, repair or replace it and pop the bead back in and inflate? Also, is it easier to remove the axle nuts on the rode with a 1/2" socket pry bar and socket than to use a box end wrench?
Just break the bead on one side of the tire and pull the tube out. Replace/repair and reinsert. Just like fixing a MTB tube. Fishing that valve into the hole can be a challenge with only one side of the tire removed, but that's how I normally do it. It just takes patience and persistence. I use box end wrenches. My Honda came with a custom 5'' box wrench and a 5'' extension that slips partly over it. It provides enough of a lever arm to get the nut off. Its enough of a lever arm that I can stand on it to get it started if needed. I use a short 19mm box end wrench to hold the other side. Very little force needed on the opposite side. (Just enough to keep it from spinning.) The nut side is where all the torquing is done. I don't think you would need any more than a standard length box end wrench.
Here's another good thread on Easy Peasy Bead Breaking ILike others, I would suggest you practice at home 2-3 times, or until you stop pinch flatting those damn tubes...
You can definitely just break the bead and spoon the tire off from one side, often while still on the bike. However, the main thing to be careful of is that often the item that caused the puncture is still in the tire, you need to find and remove it and just do a 360 degree check all around the inside to make sure there isn't anything else. I like doing the final check with my bare hand but if there is something sharp you can get cut or stabbed, so I first go around the inside of the tire with a rag and if it does not snag on anything then I do it again slower with my fingers. The entire process should only take 30 seconds unless you find something.
How are you gonna replace the tube with the axle in the way? Unless you have a single-sided swingarm, in which case never mind.
