Got an 08 Ural. It coughs and pops and sputters when cold. Needs a good warm up, say 5-10 minutes before that goes away (mostly). I am going to shim the needles when I get around to it but I tried something yesterday. I let it warm for say 2 minutes then rode away with the enrichners pulled open. It ran great. I only rode a minute or so with them on then pushe em in and the coughing came back... Is riding with them open for a bit gonna wang up anything? I think the book say's use em to start then close them right away.
Have you rejetted the carbs yet? It made a huge improvement in mine. It took me about 10 mins to change out the main and pilot jets. running with the enrichners pulled can fuel foul the sparkplugs.
Rejet the carbs, Heindl, for example, has the jet kits and the stainless caphead screws to replace the phillips head crap. You can also replace the needles with the modified ones from Gossie in Holland or just shim the stock ones up.
See if all your intake boots are secure at both ends, between the carb & intake part of the head. Any sucking of air in this area can give the same problems.
Thanks gents The bike is stock with cats in. My plan is to re jet. Ive got the stainless carb up grade bolts coming (Along with some other goodies). I am going to shim when I get them. I just wanted to know if Ill foul anything up by using the enrichners. No biggie as Ill just keep letting er warm up..
I recently got a 2005 Ural 750 Patrol. It has the same kind of problem which was described by you (fyr). I wonder, if what you did helped to eliminate coughing and popping?
The coughs and pops, disappearing when you opened enrichmeners, suggests, more likely, that there are air leakage between carbs diffusers and heads. You should check the tightness of the entire air path from the filter to the head.
Everything that has already been said along with checking the "compliance fitting” for leaks/cracks, balance the carburetors, be careful torquing the head bolts before checking the valve clearance. Suggest adding phenolic heat blocks between the cylinder head and compliance fitting flange. You might also want to check out the Soviet Steeds web site. http://sovietsteeds.com/
Lots of good answers. I have a 2006 Gear Up and was always frustrated with the long warm up. Switched both idle and main jets to recommended large sizes after several years of living with the problem and viola, a beautiful running bike. Little bit of enricher to start, but shut off shortly after, minimal popping and farting at idle, very short warmup time and definitely better top end. Can't say it is more power (from a Ural, power is not a real word) but so much smoother and pleasant to drive, I kick myself for not doing it sooner. My understanding is they are set up at the factory very lean for CARB and emission reasons but at the expense of driveability. Absolute must do for every Ural owner.
I just brought home a 2008 Gear Up a few weeks ago and I'm having the exact same problem. I'm going to try adjusting the idle mix screws first to see if that solves the problem. If not, I'll look into doing the rejet.
I'm surprised the Ural dealer lets it go out the door without rejetting it first. Could be a nice profit center. When we bought an air-cooled Ducati the dealer offered a rejet, sprocket change, and slip-ons, as a package - actually strongly suggested it. When I declined he pushed the rejet and sprocket change, saying I could take it as is but I'd be back in a week. He was right, was the most unhappy running, badly geared (way too tall) motorbike I'd ever ridden. Now that I work in the vehicle testing industry I understand jetting for emissions and gearing for EPA noise requirements!
Being persnickety and fastidious on the all the carb/performance enhancers is key to a smooth running Ural. I think that the Gossie needles were the #1 carburator replacement item for me. Play with different jetting, drill the slide, proper idle screw adjustment, proper valve adjustment, careful balancing of the carbs, and making the cats disapear are a must. These rigs are severely underpowered as it is, don't leave anything on the table. Or, off the rig, as it were! I never use my enrichers above 35 degrees, and when I use them it is only to get her started, they are pushed off within a few seconds. Good luck..
I have re-jetted my '07 according to recommendations, and really improved things (except mileage). But last week my wife and I went for a ride and it was only 7 deg. F! I could not run without popping unless my enricheners were on. When I returned home I pulled my plugs. They were a little dark, but not fouled by any means.
I think that the problem is not in the carburetors, but in the air coldness. The fact that on the new 750cc Urals, the air filter is made in a separate hull. Therefore, the air it does not heat up before its get into the carburetors diffusers. And at the old 650cc Urals, the base of the air filter is made integrated with the gearbox housing. When driving, the gearbox are heats from the engine, and the air, before getting into the intake pipes, a little heats from a gearbox warm. For example, I can ride in -4F (-20C) without any issues. However, I using another carbs, old good K-63
Mine pops a bit for the first 5 or 10 minutes and then it goes away. I rejetted to 42 or 45 pilots(I forget at the moment) and 130 mains. Compliance fittings are brand new. I'm going to turn out the air/fuel screw and shim the needles next. I may also go back to the 125 main since the 130 seemed to do nothing.
What these things need is a way to run a 1/2 choke on them on or off just does not get it. Even my /6 needs 1/2 choke for the first 2-3 miles when very cold. If I ever get energentic I would try the Bings or at least a real carb with a normal choke on the Ural. Bet there is a older carb design that would work slick. Running too rich makes them run nice in the cold. But mine after the first little bit quits popping and has good power.
