new (to me) SE-R questions..

searched around and thought I'd consolidate a few questions...

1) does anyone make aftermarket bodywork for the SE? mainly the front fender (looks like the standard off road one) and the tank shrouds. I saw a white fender or might go all black like my 450.

2) i have a safari and stock tank. Safari is mounted currently. I would like to be able to swap back and forth for conditions. How long of a job is that, and what parts would I need to add back to the stock tank to make it a quicker job (i.e. is the fuel pump bolted to the tank, so if I got another pump it would swap over quicker, etc)? I know it would need petcocks but wasn't sure what else might be mounted to the tank...

3) is there a way to wire the headlight so I can put a switch somewhere to turn off the headlight? mainly thinking off road riding where I don't want to wear down the battery or other situations... not sure if it's needed but I always like having the option to turn off the headlight on my 450. I have a three position switch for the headlight on that bike - off/low/high

other than that I'll dig into changing fluids next week, giving it a once over, wire in a powerlet (any suggestions on good places to put the outlet?), and rewire the fan as someone posted so it'll stay on till it cools regardless of the temps...

The bike seems to be very well sorted in it's present condition, can't say that it really needs anything (besides me to get out and ride it!). I'm headed out for a short ride this weekend just to see how it runs. will post photos and maybe some video if I get into anything fun.

long time lurker on Orange Crush but now's my chance to contribute to the insanity...

I haven't found anyone that makes aftermarket bodywork except for carbon fiber. Check with CJ Designs.

You can use pretty much and KTM "big bike" front fernder. It mounts the same way. I used an Acerbis supemoto fender on mine and it worked fine.

Fuel tank. You'll need some quick disconnects for the fuel lines. CPC is a common manufacturer for these. The left side of the tank has the horn, fuel pump etc.. You'll need all of that and petclocks if you want to do a real "quick swap."

I wouldn't worry about the light but you could always wire in an "OFF" switch somewhere.

Welcome to Orange!

I don't know if it is a convenient flaw in my SE, but the 3rd position on my headlight switch switches the headlight off.

USA bikes don't have "off". Sicass Racing light switch for the EXC is plug & play and gives you more room on the bars to cut them or run the levers in a better position.

The "quick" swap will be a PITA due to the cross brace. Unbolting and reattaching it to the oil tank are a chore. The Safari has the same ergos as stock so I say just live with it. Of course, I'm thinking of swapping back to stock as I never know how much I have in the Safari and end up carrying 8g when I need only 4.

I think the SMR has the same dash??? I ran a power outlet thru that, sorry don't have the bike anymore and my SE has no dash. :eek1

usually the euro bikes have an "off" setting.

I have the sicass switch on my 450, I'll check and see if that might work on the 950. would be nice to keep the flasher, maybe I'll just wire in a switch..


also what tire pressure is everyone running for street and dirt? I'll probably run mostly off road tires on the bike and just deal with low mileage. fun always comes at a price, right? :)

I'm guessing that the 10.5psi that I run in my 450 isn't going to cut it with 400lb bike. lol.

22 PSI works without rim locks and full blown Teraflex rear knob. I have 25 in a 908 right now. Less air doesn't really translate to better traction. Throw the book out when dealing with +400 lbs dirtbikes.

Depends what switch gear is on it. If it is a rocker type switch above the indicators and behind the horn/kill switch, then there is a small tab on the switch that stops you moving it to the off position. If you can ease that tab out and cut it off / file it down, the std switch will work - it's what I did to mine, but when trying to ease it out, I ended up forcing it out!! Either way I am glad to have the option of swtching it off.

In the pic below I ended up pushing the top rocker switch hard to the right and the tab popped out of the switch cluster, and I filed it off.

cheers

Markie

anyone running rim locks on the bike? I don't think I saw any on there. not concerned about tire changes (i've done a few), but didn't know if it was an issue with the tire pressures on the SE.

also anyone know if the safari gas caps are the same as any other caps out there (i.e. Acerbis, IMS, older KTM screw caps)?

Are my posts blocked? :eek1

Lol. Just hard of hearing sometimes.

I'll type LOUDER from now on!!! :d

I mounted a small switch on the rh side of above the signal light to the low beam wire. That way the headlight can be turned off when ever I want.
I used the low beam because I always ride on HI on the road during the day, and then switch to LO when starting/ warming up the bike in the morning or riding off road.
The small lower bulb in the headlight I switched to an LED, there is an exact match for the stock one. I also swaped the tail lights and brake light to LED

I have the same switch as Markie. Right position is no light, middle position is low beam and left position is high beam.
That is about the only good thing about these controls, for the rest I don't like them:
- horn is not easy accessible, especially when you need it quick
- killswitch is not easy accessible and I would prefer the kill switch at my right hand
- the feel of the indicator switch and light switch is not solid


About swapping between Safari and stock tank:

I bought an extra set of fuel petcocks and a fuel level sensor so both tanks have these. I don't have to swap these parts anymore from one tank to another. You could do the same with the fuel pump and some fuel lines but that is a more expensive part.
But whatever you do: it will never be a quick job.

You can use Ktm 690 R front fender . It´s bolt on , cheap and much better..

You can open orginal headlight switch and file a little plastic pin off ,then you have on/off-low-high switch.

I have SAS system taken off and fuel pump is located behind of airfilter box. I took fuel lines both sides of engine to T -joint and from T-joint a short fuel hose to fuel pump . Horn is also located to another place so i have only fuel light wire what i have to take off. Sorry about my bad english.

i am running two rim locks on the rear ,couldn't balance one.i had tire slippage with 28 psi running a heidinau scout.no slippage now with tck80's.

Anyone done a tutorial? I'll have to look into this...........

If it is any help I think that the euro switchgear with a off position is a pretty common part. I used it for heated grips, and bought a $10 second hand unit from a R1

See http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=690895

Sounds interesting, that might simplify tank removal and mounting.
- Do you have pictures of that setup.
- Is the current fuel pump location higher than original? This higher location compared to the fuel level in the tank, doesn't this give any problems regarding regarding static pressure?

I dont have pics...yet. My driving season ends after this month(cause of winter) ,then i take my SE a part then i can take some pics of my fuel lines.
Put your e-mail address for me by PM so i can send a few photos of my fuelpump location and headlight switch.

The EU light switch is not compatible with the USA wiring.
I tried going that way on my SE and price is astronomical because the harness is around 500.+- then add the cost of the euro switch. This website helped me on same question I had a copuple of years ago
Cheapest alternative is filing off plastic on stock or open light shell and t a switch on the low beam.that way you can turn it off.
Pepe