Leaf Springs vs. 1/2 torsion axles

Pulling my Harbor Freight trailer with my Tenere on Forest service roads beats me nearly to death. The trailer has a solid axle and leaf springs.

Here is the trailer. I already took a leaf out of the pack and upgrades to 12" wheels.
http://www.harborfreight.com/600-lb-capacity-78-inch-tag-along-trailer-66771.html

I am looking at these on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-250-Torsi...Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a2b3d260&vxp=mtr

Would these really give me a better ride? Do you think they are reliable?

I am leaving for Alaska in about a month and am considering making the switch before I go.

Thanks!

No.

To get the trailer to stop beating you up on rough roads you need more suspension travel, not less.

I have ran a lot of trailers with both suspensions empty through overloaded. Torsions are the worst riding in general. Very short travel, extremely progressive spring rates. On rare occasions torsions ride good, but everything I remember about that involved heavy trailers.

For a lightweight trailer, the best riding suspension I have had is an airbag suspension. Go a bit oversized on the airbags will let you run lower (softer) spring rates. I have got soft enough that I actually have to run shocks. Coils also work, but I find that by the time you get the rest of the suspension ready for coils (having to add suspension links, etc.) fitting an airbag is just as easy and more adjustable when conditions change.

If you are looking at simple stone age suspension, stay with leaves. A longer spring will give more travel. For that matter you could probably get a set of truck/jeep leaf springs, take the packs apart and run just the main leaf, maybe a second if the trailer is heavy. That will ride better then those short leaf springs that have little travel.

X2 on the longer length leaf springs. Maybe a set of shocks also. Larger tires will help roll over stuff and not get snagged.

Find an old coil spring Holsclaw brand boat trailer and convert it.... (there was one for sale here a while back).

New shocks, all pivots refreshed, etc. as a minimum.

Just add some cheap shocks...or tie down the bike in such a way as both the front and rear bike suspension remains active.
Like this, fork brace and wheel in the front, wheel or swingarm in the rear.

Hey guys,

Not sure we all talking about the same thing.
Here is my trailer.


It had a small leaf pack and I took it apart to only use the main spring. I actually have old cherokee leaf springs here but can't imagine them giving me any flex on this little thing.

My biggest thought for the small torsion half axles is that they are independent. I've already moved up to 12" wheels but maybe bigger wheels are possible.

Off subject, but I had to laugh seeing a VX800, I used to own one too.

Oh, ok then, trailer BEHIND MC...not under it:huh
Adding shocks still applies, forget the rest of what I posted, and you could lengthen the tongue to lesson the hitch weight or remove another leaf

Vtwin:
Laugh :huh
You wish you still had it, built/sold for 3 years to compete with the Honda Hawk, but will never be a cult bike...well 'cause it ain't a Honda

Thanks, already lengthened the tongue and it is down to one leaf.

If the torsion axles aren't any better I will probably just leave it.

The mid grade trailers all seem to use the torsion axles and the high end trailers use shocks.

I thought the HF trailer with leafs would have been bottom of the barrel and if $190 in parts would make a significant difference I would have made the jump.

From the looks of your pic, it looks like you added a box to the lengthened tongue and what's in there might become too much tongue weight if rough roads compress the rear mc shock(s).
Does the mc hitch mount to the swingarm (unsprung) or the frame (sprung)?
Have you checked the specs of trailers sold to be towed with an MC?
It might reveal the tongue length, spring type/rate and other usable info.

I think the problem is that your towing a trailer behind a bike on dirt roads,many thousands of people dont do that and carry what they need easily. Every Ins company Ive heard of will drop coverage on a bike with trailer instantly. Because its dangerous if anything happens quick like.

Yes, have over 10,000 miles on this trailer pulling it on pavement with the FJR and a couple thousand miles on it with the Tenere.

I've done lots of traveling solo and had more than enough room but now my long trips are two up and almost exclusively camping.

My son and I are leaving for AK in June and plan to be gone up to 40 days. I'm a big guy and for all the riding we have done I prefer the extra weight on the trailer than on the bike. Tried a side car rig for a while and I guarantee you I believe a trailer is much safer.

The hitch mounts to the sub frame and foot peg mounts. I don't think the tongue weight is the issue. The box came on the trailer from the factory. I only added to the length of the tongue which probably did add some weight but not much.

The suspension on the bike is not the issue. (I don't think) Ohlins shock and upgraded fork springs. If anything I think the trailer is too light and the leafs don't compress and since it is a solid axle one wheel hitting a pothole effects both wheels and transmits everything through the bike.

The torsion suspension I thought would be better because each wheel would be independent.

I don't plan to pull the trailer much into rough places. The bigger idea is to pull it to campgrounds, set up camp, unhook it and go explore.

I would prefer Leaf Springs personally. Torsion axles never seem to work real well from my past experiences.

I did some research around the net on "factory built/sold" MC trailers and found some with rubber flex axles, most were aluminum framed and seemed to have longer tongues and the axle(s) placed somewhat towards the back of the platform...another variable.
One claimed an 11 pound tongue weight when empty :huh
Interesting subject and I have to believe there's a website for motorcyclist that are trailer users/owners, but didn't search for one.
Good luck on your quest and post back if the axle switch had any benefits.
I had a trailer builder close and had them build a 5x8 cargo trailer modified to my specs that I had a rubber flex axle(s) and I had them mount it 1 foot further back than their normal build.
It had a low deck height, was 5'8" inside and fit still under a standard 7' garage door

Google images of"one link rear suspension". How about that and a couple of snowmobile front shocks?

Been down this trailer spring road several times.......but .rough ride, rust, poor tires, poor welds and little or no engineering are just a few concerns or complaints with the cheap trailers.

The last two trailers I purchased were both full torsion axles and the trailer were designed around the axles. They both ride great loaded or in loaded. I would never ever buy a leaf axle again.

Like most things trailers need planing and engineering to match the components to their intended use.

I paid a little more for both trailers on the front end (one is Triton 1997 flat bed)........but no need to rebuild and pay on the back end.
The second trailer is enclosed box, torsion and axle with brakes........it is pleasure to pull, cushion ride and braking is never a concern.
Both run about 10% tongue weight loaded or unloaded so wag or whip is never a concern......light tongues are never ever a good thing.

After the axles thing is worked out the tires and bearing and seals are the next upgrade...........never ends..........pay up front for better trailer.........spend more time riding less time working on the trailer. A $10000 bike deserves more than $400 trailer.

I've never been impressed with torsion spring setups on the cargo trailers that I've used. I would rather have properly sprung leaf springs.

On your trailer, I would try adding shocks and removing another leaf. Larger tires would also help If you feel like spending additional money beyond that. 12" tires are still pretty narrow and relatively high pressure, so the tires are very firm and bouncy. A pair or 13" or 14" tires could be aired down while off road so they provide some give over bumps.

I got a light weight aluminum utility trailer, about 400 lb empty. I've pulled it everything from empty to loaded with about 1000 lb payload. It is a high end trailer with torsion suspension.

It rides smoother, both empty and loaded, than any trailer I've ever used. The rubber torsion spring has some damping as well as springing.