The CRF250L Owners thread

http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=25341100&postcount=1

reposted as we all know these bikes in this thread!

Put the factory pipe back on. That's how I fixed the delay. And how exactly do you tread on the gas on a motorcycle? Anyway . . .more gas at whatever point of the rpm range that you are having hesitation.

BATTLECATTLE: WOW that arm looks nasty....but hopefully damage was confined to the arm bones (ulna and radius) and the wrist was undamaged. Think positive about a new bike and more riding in 2015.

Psh, he already has a new KTM 690. I think he's just looking to get out of the 250 real quick like.

I mean twisting the throttle :)
Putting the stock pipe is not an option - to much hassle :)
Well Will have to make some tests when I get back to the bike

The damage was just the ulna and radius but I snapped them both. I just finished with the insurance guy and they totaled it out. Now I need to either get another 250 or sell my extras off this one.

Just curious, what was the extent of the damage? Hard to tell from the pics except for the wheel.

Take out the snorkel & drill some holes in the airbox cover on the right side of the bike. that'll fix the delay as the bike is running RICH (more fuel than air).

I'll have to post up some photos of what I did with the airbox cover. I trimmed that poxy looking outer bit where the top screw goes into the actual frame. Also you have to Disconnect the PAIR valve to stop the pop pop pop from the exhaust on back off. take the right hand side rad cover off, the PAIR valve is behind/Above the KEIHN Injection/ECU box (it has a rubber sleeve that it sits in then slides onto a bracket on the frame), its above that. Pain in the arse to get to with big hands but unplug it, and cable tie the plug out of the way. it stops the valve from injecting clean air into the exhaust causing it to detonate with leftover fuel outta the exhaust. (gets worse as the bike gets warmer obviously)

You don't believe much do you? I've got 13500km on my stock rear tyre (really quite bald so I just pussyfoot it at the moment until I can afford a new rear). and that's in the scrub and on the bitumen, hooning the hell out of it (think sumo back it in slides and emergency stops and stuff). Guys at the workshop were amazed I got that much out of a rear, apparently 5k is good!

The yellow blue lights (from memory, as I've got one aswell) that come on when you turn the key on is the system saying 'no injector signal'. not until you start it that it goes out. the 1.5, 1.5, 2.5 etc is for a STOCK exhaust and STOCK air filter. the 4,4,4.5,5,6 or what ever it comes preprogrammed as is for the stage 1 kit. exhaust, holes in the air box, snorkel removed and backfire screen got rid of.

Go to the dealer n buy a 'CBR250R oil change kit'. will have filter, crush washer, new gasket and 2x 1L bottles of oil. specific to the engine. $44.50 in Australia from Honda. dunno what that is in USD, but I never skimp on oil quality. only needs 1.5L. there's a sight glass on the left? I think, has to be between those two marks. make sure the bike is upright when checking it.

Red dog are your stock tires the IRC's? It could be a geographic thing, many almost identical bikes and cars come with different tires depending on the location they are going.

Try 1.5,2.5 and 3.5 on your first three settings of your EJK. It will make a big difference in throttle response.

do you like the shock so far? any short review ?
it looks a good cheap option as the racetech rear shock is way more expensive including shipping to europe.

People like that need a lesson. I hope you have contacted a lawyer to drive that lesson home to him. You should be compensated well for this. His insurance will likely cover the sum received (if it works the same as here in Canada), but it will drive the point home and benefit you.

Heal up and take it easy in the interim. I feel your pain ;-)

John

I got over 14,000 km out of the stock rear and almost 20,000 out of the front. The front still had fair life left. The rear was down to 4mm in the center knob. The use was maybe 60% pavement, including fast highways, and 40% off-road. I found the stock tires wear like iron.

Well apparently I just had a shit GP22 because that POS, in addition to sucking offroad, wore way too quickly. I've got a TW302 on now and it's probably wearing just as quick, but at least it grips very well in loose dirt/sand.

My GP22 wore pretty fast also. It wasn't that great of a tire for the PNW to begin with. I only got about 3000 miles out of it. I don't wait until bald though, I replace when about 3/4 worn, whenever I notice a reduction in off road traction and control. I replaced the stock tires with TR8's and really liked them, they did well on & off road. Off road traction was a night & day difference compared to the stock tires. Life of the rear tire was about the same, so I now have a D606 on the rear. I think I'll get more life out of the 606, it seems to be made of a harder compound. That harder compound though seem to grip a little less on hard surfaces, (rock's, etc) especially when wet. The 606 seems to do slightly better in really loose stuff. The front TR8 has about 4000 miles on it and seems about half worn.

Same, I changed the GP22 once it lost its edge offroad, at about 1/8" tread left. What size TR8 for the rear? Was it taller than the GP22? I'll never use the D606 since I read that it's taller than stock.

4.5-18 for the rear. TR8 will be a slightly taller than GP22 because of the larger knobs, but it's a little less than the 606. The TR8 is little less aggressive of a tire than the 606, so it handles pavement better, but the 606 is a little better in real loose stuff.