BMW Problem, some serious thinking needed....

I'd connect the second vehicles battery to the ignition system (use the engine kill switch to isolate the bike from the second vehicle). Negative to negative as per usual. Second vehicles positive to the ignition coil (its battery terminal).

Test 1 - charging system
Start the bike and check the charging voltage on the bike battery.

Test 2 - ignition system
Start the second vehicle and check that the ignition system runs off the second vehicle at normal charging voltages.

This will isolate the ignition system from the charging system .. allowing testing of the charging system (battery voltage), and allow testing of the ignition system at various voltages - provided by the second vehicle. I think this is your best way forward.

I'm not much help here, but a buddy had an old electronic ignition truck. For whatever reason, (as we were selling it) it would turn over but not start. Turned over quite lively, but the Ford module evidently wasn't getting enough to 'catch'. The Ford aluminum bodied control modules were notorious PIAs. I think they had a ground wire in the harness plug _and_ they were physically grounded. I used to carry a second one all the time, for my own truck and I'd swap it into a customers truck and then carry theirs as a spare.

Jumped the battery and sent the truck with its new owner.

Thanks for the very kind offer Jenna, but like Rob says, lots of money.

I wished you were a bit closer Rob! I am getting a little tired of going over the same things again and again. I am sure I must be missing something but I have no idea what.

There has been some great help on this thread, which I really apreciate, but I am not going near the bike until the weekend now.:huh

I'm still leaning towards a charging system problem. I know you've tried several voltage regulators, but have you confirmed good continuity between the regulator and diode board and the regulator and its ground, regulator and alternator? See the wiring schematic I posted for you. If any of that wiring isn't right you can change regulators and every other component till the cows come home and still never cure your problem.

Has dead battery been mentioned?

I've dismissed that due to post #1 ... where a second bike was jumped and the second battery had no effect. I assumed the Triumph rode away? In any event the battery has enough ommph (tecky term) to start the bike.

So yesterday I won a a good working used bean can and matching ICU on ebay for a great price (under $100, for the pair) this morning I fitted them both (I know you guys would like me to have fitted them one at a time) anyway, I bolted them on, and hit the button, and it runs

I now have to sort out the timing, as I fitted it by eye, but right now it is again running.

So a big thank you to all those who really took the time to help me work through the problem, and those who offered me parts. Have a virtual beer on me.

I will now send both the ICU's that I have up to Rob, so he can check them out for me on the tester, then we will know if it was just a second faulty ICU or the bean can.

I really had to get this sorted because the Beemer is my only personal transport, I don't own a car, and I am not allowed to use my works van for personal use.

I think now, I will invest in a new electronic can kit as posted back a few pages, and maybe upgrade the charging side as well.

Good news. Sometimes it takes the gross and brutal mass replacement of parts instead of plucky sleuthing to solve a problem.

To stir the ole pot

Remember that many of these new aftermarket systems use proprietary parts: if the bean can goes out, it needs to be replaced with their part and if the ICM goes out it has to be replaced with their part, and not "generic" parts on eBay. Which limits you to their stock and their availability, so if they are out of stock or have discontinued the system, you are SOL.


Rob--

You have a tester for ICMs? Storebought or homemade? I can see something that generates a string of logic-level pulses (as from a simulated Hall sensor) and outputs pulses of the proper width (ie, "dwell") that can sink sufficient current for the coils, and over the RPM range. The Hall sensor tester might be easier.

--Bill

Bill,

My tester is a Lucas workshop unit.

You connect the module up to the test unit and run a series of checks on it by hitting the start button. Change the lead configuration around to simulate the hall sensor and hit the test again. It works fine and reliably diagnoses faulty ICu's. what it cannot do is recreate hot engine bay environments so if you have a heat related issue it probably wont pick it up.

The only reference to it I can find is this http://archive.commercialmotor.com/.../time-to-check-your-chips-with-lucas-analyser

Interesting, Rob. I've dabbled with electronics since I was a youngster and I "can envision" testing procedures for that. Mostly academic curiosity. But still, it's good that they have the equipment for that.

Engine heat could be simulated with a heat gun (hot air, rather like a hair dryer but hotter).

--Bill

Glad to hear you got the bike running! For some reason, I note what Motobins has for sale. They have rebuilt bean cans: http://www.motobins.co.uk/displayfinal.php?q=07910x&topsearch=1&go=GO

But, it may be a good project to source the hall effect sensor and replace it yourself. Good luck!

Nice job Kevin.....Glad you've got your ST back

Good to see you got it back in service.

How is the insulation on the wires in the old bean can ?


Mike

Good job Kev.

I have a Hall Effect Sensor you can have for post from Oz if it's needed.
It's new and unused, though there is a small cut in the black wire plastic cover. The wires look intact though, as viewed with a jewellers eye. A little heat shrink and it'd be fine.

Be very interested to find out what component it was .. (and why .. might be more of a puzzle).

There does come a point where the equipment and expertise available dictate that unit replacement is the best option. Hence computer 'repairs' are done to board level in most places .. individual IC replacement is beyond most places.

I do have some more experimenting to do the next time I have this setup on my work bench.

Thank God i can get to sleep now

I wanna know what the prob is so please keep us posted.

Glad your up and running again Kev.

I set up the timing today and have ben out most of the morning, all seems good again now. I just need to dial the carbs in again, where I have been playing with everything, it is a little out of balance, but not too bad all things considered



Bike is on the back burner now though for a week or two, as I move out of my house this week, and look for an old Dutch barge to become my new home on the water somewhere

Oh man.....Brad is gonna be bugging you about that!!!! Good job Kev......i told you so Sorry, dunno where that came from.