The sprockets and first chain were not that old. Maybe 1500 miles at the most on them. I've never seen a chain do this before.
If the chain line is right, and nothing is hitting the chain, it's got to have something wrong with the sprockets or chain. Not likely to get 2 chains crack the same way. You might switch out chains and sprockets with your bike, or pull them off and compare, just as a test.
I guess I should double check the swingarm install, too. Front sprocket mounted correctly in your opinion? The shoulder on the sprocket is on the inside. Seems to me it should be on the outside, next to the clip?
check rear wheel alignment too. i'd measure from swingarm pivot to axle, should be close to equal side to side
I agree, it makes sense that the shoulder should be on the outside. But, to the best of my knowledge, that is not correct. Instead, the shoulder should be on the inside. I am not sure what would be causing that pattern of failure. The rubber swing arm protector looks worn, but I can't see that it would cause this. Regards, Gregory Bender
The parts fiche shows the shoulder to the outside. http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3ab3af8700220d0b721af/transmission
I know it does, and so does the workshop manual. I have never seen an original Suzuki countersprocket, but I suspect they had collars on both sides. I know all of the aftermarket ones I purchase today do not. I do know that when I mounted the collar to the outside, that I got a lot of side wear on the teeth. Now that I mount the collar to the inside, I do not. For whatever that is worth... It needs to be mounted so that it will not rub on the case saver AND be aligned as possible with the rear sprocket. Pragmatism rules! :> Also, I recall reading somewhere that the collar goes to the inside, but I can't find that reference. Sorry. Regards, Gregory Bender
The inside links look really close to the case saver. I think we're going to flip the front sprocket and double check everything.My DR has the sprocket with the shoulder inboard, has been that way for a long time with no issues.
I also have mine mounted to the inside. I don't think I put more logic into it than "more surface area for circlip". Never had any issues.
Also check to make sure both axle adjusters are keeping the wheel straight. You might be able to look down the length of the chain like a gun sight and see any misalignment.
After reading Mondo Enduro, check yr sprockets front and rear ! and the chain, and know how to set chain tension. And a couple of spare chain links... Tubewise, maybe heavy duty tubes and/or that anti-puncture poo, if anyone knows a brand that works... and maybe new tyres? Dave in NZ
Great first post! I will share a little with you. Lowering your bike sucks. Kobota links are expensive. If you really want to lower your bike try dialing down the preload on the shock first. Also drop the forks lower in the clamps. I know people will say it is not the proper way. Low pre load sucks, blah blah blah... But it is free. If you really want a K link PM me, I will sell you the over priced chunk of aluminum. See that the bike has no turn signals, or tail light at all. Adding these things to missing wiring might be difficult. LEDs add their own set of problems. Read the vendor ad linked in my sig line. Gives you a lot of info on running LED turn signals. For the tail lights LEDs are not as much of an issue. The tail light is also the brake light. Make sure you have a 3 wire assembly/bulb. The headlight bulb on these are H4, not 9003. They might make drop in upgrades. Most that really upgrade do so with a HID. For an inexpensive good street tire do not overlook the Shinko 244. Even the 700 something version though I have no experience with those. Luggage rack. Most will bolt to the rear grab bar. Yours looks bent. Assumed some one flipped the bike wheeling and broke off the tail light, turn signals, and bent the grab bar. YOu are going to need to bend that back or replace. When replacing know that their are two varieties. You have the steel street model with the turn signal mounting tab. The other is aluminum off the off road model. Not ideal for supporting a rack and missing the turnsignal mounts used to mount some of the racks. Below the grab bar there is a rear fender support. Your is most likely missing. Without it supporting the grab bar it was easily bent. The support is there mainly to hold up the license plate bracket which you don't have and most delete, but IMO it is an integral part in supporting the grab bar if it is to be used as a rack mount. Tons of these available on e-bay, or PM me, I have several. Welcome to the world of DR. Much can be learned from this thread alone.
Bought new signal lights for my "97 DR350SE that the PO had removed. As I went to install them, I discovered I was also missing the stays (errrr). Anybody got a set of these at a reasonable price? I live in BC, so the closer you are the better (for postage). PM me. Thanks.
If you would just like to get them on asap, I drilled and mounted mine to the headlight/wiring cover thing (see pics in sig). It's just a tad tight and I have to stretch it over the headlight now because of the length of the bolts, but it looks clean.
Hey, great idea. I have only one concern: I expect I will crash my bike now and then ('cause I wanna have fun). The signals look like they may be a bit more prone to damage in a crash being further out there and less protected by the handle bars. Any thoughts on that? There are some great innovations on this thread.
I suppose if you ran into a tree at the right angle it would get in there, but then again even at the stock locations that would be hard to defend against. But as far as dropping or anything else, the way the tire and handlebars hit the ground, they're pretty far away from being touched. I've lowsided a few times and nothing even got remotely close. The bar-end mirrors are a different story though. I just fold them in and they are tough so they usually only need a re-tightening.
