Gonna share some things I do to my 690. HEY, NO DIRTY THINKIN HERE, OK?????? :huh First; Those of you who choose to follow my path, do so at your own risk. I`M NOT A MECHANIC! With that said, if you see me f%&k up, by all means let me now!! 12-03-18: Rally bike build added. Skip to page 2 post 23. Allrighty then... It all started with a nice delivery from ol´ UK. Then started to remove.. Oh, and don´t forget the music. Allways feels better to work with music in the background. Ok on with the show. SAS and SLS had to go. Just a lot of stuff no one needs. That has allready ben covered by MAXVERT here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11512619&postcount=10360 I did allmost the samebut went a little further. Ditched the Breather cover (alu-lid in pic below) and made my own from alu. Engine breatherhose now direct to airbox. Here you can see the electircal connection for the sas/sls valve. I didn´t put a resistor in it, and nock on wood no flashing FI-light. Maybe got something to do with the ackro-map? Dunno, it just works Lots of stuff to come off...
Lets see... Touratech folding stepplate thingy.. Also put on a speedo from an old Husaberg (adjustable trip), homemade roadbook mount and steeringdamper (Oh joy). Sorry, no pics of the work in progress.. Power outlet for gps.. Switches in front of the saddle is for gps outlet and ignition. No more key.
Time to check the valves. Pretty straight forward job, especially if you got rid of the "spaggethi incident" called SAS/SLS... First remove sidecovers and airbox. Valvecover sits with 4 bolts. Unscrew but let them stay in cover. A bit fiddly to get the cover off, but no worries. Oops, need to check that coolant.... Behold, the inner realms of KTM 690! (Well, parlty anyway...) Ok, time to get to TDC. This is what it should look like. Feel on the rocker arms, you should be able to move them a tiny bit. No need to block the engine with a "special tool", it doesnt, go anywhere. Time to measure. Mine were in spec. after 10.000 km. No worries. Lets get it all together. Nothing fancy, just everything backwards. Go easy now, just 10 Nm on the valvecover bolts!! Now pat yourself on your shoulder and got out spend your money on fuel instead of expensive workshops.
Ok, time for fork oil change and some "Original Gold"... First unscrew bolts in top tripple. Loosen fork top, Just loosen it. Remove front brake calliper (if you are on that side..), remove front wheel. Unscrew lower triple bolts. Remove forkleg. Unscrew fork top. Don´t worry. Nothing will go "boing" right in your face. Easy, ey? Ok. Remove spring. Time to drain oil. Turn forkleg upsidedown into a "suitable container" and let the oil flow out.Pull the piston in and out to ensure it all gets drained You´ll probably need to turn the forkleg around a couple of times and do it again. It´s not only forkoil in there if you wonder ´bout the collor.... Right, on with the show. When you get all the oil out turn the fork rightways and compressed. Hold the piston up about 1,5 cm and add new fresh oil of your choice. I´m going 5w. Fill up gently and air starts to escape. Pull the piston up and down a few times. Be sure you don´t get the oil level below the four holes you see down the tube, or you will get air in. Remove excessive oil and set airchamber to your spec. Mine is 110mm. Spring out, leg compressed. This thing works like charm. If you don´t have one, get one! Remount everything, do the other leg and go ride!
Well, if you´re doing the front, you´ll need to do the rear. Right? Remove rear wheel and lift the tank. Remove top and lower shock mounting bolts remove shock linkage bolt. Now is a good time to regrease the linkage as well. Remove shock. This step might involve some fiddling and foul language. Place the shock on your workbench and compress the spring. Remove spring retainer Remove spring. Mount new spring. Remount shock on bike. Get bike dirty. Nice, ey?
Bobzilla: Thanks! I didnt need to change them shims, but might add that anyways next oilchange or somethin. TimFinnegan: It´s the small details, right?
Hi guys, I don't know where to post this but I need help. Today my friend and I went riding (both on 690 enduro R) , and unfortunatly my friend had a major spill and landed on the left handle. Everything is out of alignment and not sure if fork or tripples are bent or not. Long story short , I offered to help him check everything out and his bike is in my garage and I need to figure out how to aligne the tripples. So far I have removed the handlebars, the wheel , and about to slide out the forks to see if they are bent but one thing is for sure, the triple trees are out of alignment. Help please. thanks Gio
the stock 2010+ smc tail plastic is white, looks like this one may have been painted judging by the orange rub marks where the seat would touch.
Yes, painted it. Looked like sheit when i got it, lots of scratches and rubmarks, and wanted to see what it looked like white. As you may notice i haven´t bought the "real deal" white rear fender just yet.... And it got even more scratches and rubmarks now.
Well, it´s that time of year when "things" gettin darker, so more light needed. Before: After: Crappy pic, but you get the idea... Connected to the Hibeam.
One thing I discovered on my aux light tryout trip, is that it´s bloody difficult to read the roadbook when dark, so things need to be "lighter" (sorry..) First take your 19.99$ RB Drill a hole Take a leftover indicator lamp or simmilar Make sure arrows point in right direction....oser Fixed Connect the way you prefer. I hooked up on the lobeam. Let´s go racing!!
You could also use a LED license plate illumination: http://www.ebay.de/itm/LED-Kennzeic...pt=Motorrad_Kraftradteile&hash=item53e7e675c7