2008 and up RMZ 450 are what I purchased. I removed a lot of the backside of the panel molding with a dremel. The bottom bolt hole is mounted to a former rear peg hole, so if you have a dirt model no dice there. It takes modification to fit but I'm not the first to do it in this thread, do a search and find pics of others.
This. From my experience, the air/fuel variation brought on by a sizeable exhaust flow change can be very small, but can be observed. If your bike is jetted properly in the first place, the free flowing exhaust isn't going to change much... In most cases, every bike is different. STORY TIME For example, at my shop I have 2 customers that have me work on their bikes (we are an automotive shop that specializes in VW/Audi and BMW), we'll call them T and S. T's bike is a 1978 Yamaha XS650 (mikuni BS38s) that was a barn find that sat since 1982. I was anticipating a jetting change due to the fact that I had to use Unifilters, and he wanted slip-ons (those bottle shaped "cafe" mufflers) Much to my surprise, it didn't need any jetting changes at all, the mixture was spot on and the bike pulled nicely after it was all said and done. S's bike is a 1982 Honda CB-750F (Keihin VB-42s) that he bought as a poorly executed (unfinished) cafe racer project. It had pod filters and a 4-1 exhaust with a supertrapp (I think it was a Kerker system) It ran very poorly (lean) when he brought it to me. While rebuilding the carbs, among other things I eliminated the air cut valves, made the accelerator pump work, and installed a dynojet kit to make it cooperate with the pod filters. I ended up having to substitute #128 main jets for the supplied #130 mains due to it being rich. Big step from a #102 main jet, but when it was all said and done it was like a bit scary, it pulled like a rocket. And then there's my DR250S. It has a webcams 264 cam, KPMI valvetrain, very lightly ported head, Mikuni TM31, a Kientech header, and a DG R-series muffler that was modified to become a chambered muffler because it was too damn loud. It is extremely sensitive to backpressure changes and air density changes. When I was re-engineering the muffler I spent more time re-jetting that I did making baffles. Currently it has a #142 main jet in it and goes like hell (for a dr250), until the weather changes and then it needs to go up or down a jet size depending on what is going on... No complaints about throttle response though, I love how direct it is when it's working properly. I'm kind of leaning towards trying a Lectron carburetor just for ease of tuning and product support.
13411-14E10 available from amy Suzuki dealer for about $30. I usually order stuff like this from ronayers.com but it's probably cheaper and faster from moto-lab.com.
Anyone have a stock exhaust for sale? I have a '98 that really needs to be a bit quieter.:eek1 PM me please.
Okay. Everyone loves pictures right. I don't have a stock muffler to compare to but here are a few pictures. And don't complain about the rust or condition of my DR350. It literally was a barn find and I'm just starting to mock up new parts before tear down and rust removal. Here is a picture of how much material I removed from RMZ side panel. I did it with a cutoff wheel on a dremel. Cut really easy. I have only cut one side for your convenience so you can see what the other uncut panel looks like. My frame is a street frame so more threaded mounting points but you guys are creative, you could make them fit on a dirt frame. I bent out the stock side panel bottom mounting point to fit the contours of this side panel. I will drill a hole in the panel here and mount a bolt. The airbox is why I had to trim a bunch of material from the backside. There was interference here. Bottom peg mount fits bottom hole on the RMZ panel fairly well. And a picture of the CPC of the panels I purchased.
Thanks for the info SnoPro have a street dr, and giant loop coyote luggage, so Im always looking for ways to combat heat build up under the side panel with a stock muffler. them things look like they might flow more air by the muffler and maybe give more room between the muffler and side panel..
Procycle also lists a billet one for the DR650 that I think fits DR350. I was going to try it, but haven't gotten around to it. Anybody tried that one? http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr650.html
It would be nice if they would throw up the part number in the description... I looked at procycle and found it somewhat frustrating that they had this included on the DR650 page, minus a part number, as a alternative to replace the cable controlled plunger yet this part did not appear at all on the DR350 page- a stock part of the carburetor..
I have to look, I might have the stock muffler off my 91 DR350. It might be cheaper to buy one from the dealer though than to ship it from PA to NM, it weighs about 1,000 pounds :)
Kouba 2" lowering links for the DR350 I have a set $40 shipped to the lower 48. Pm me to arrange purchase. Like new, maybe 100 miles on them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Help! Got a new to be 1999SE that's got a toasted starter! Other than oem, has anyone found the right one through eBay, Amazon etc? Just received one sold by Amazon and it does not even resemble the one we have. I got a return from Amazon but have not gotten in touch with retailer so I thought I would ask the experienced people currently posting here. Hope someone can help me out. I think this is going to be an awesome trail bike. I'm currently a KLR guy and love the apparent simplicity of this bike. It will run with a push down my hill, but I got no one to push the old guy back up if it stalls! Pat
Thank you for the response! He does not show a picture and only show rebuilt. Guess I'll have to rebuild myself. Have found the parts on eBay, new brush plate and brushes. Pat
