Bellingham to Brazil, not coming back

I´m in

Boa viagem.

+1.
Vince is right, it is a whole new dimension when you hit the Andes in Peru and Bolivia. It is an absolute must!

Keep on riding, you made the right choice...

I LOVE this website...

damn, I should be riding, not reading!

Wow. I wish I was able to do something like this... However, like many others, I've got kids, a wife, school, and more student loan debt (and climbing) than assets at this point... So, I can only live vicariously through others as far as trips like this.

So, the girlfriend is willing to move down to Brazil with you??? Sounds (and looks) like a keeper... On the other hand, you're young and going to Brazil... Maybe not having a girlfriend would be quite advantageous.

So my dad road with me for a couple of days which was very cool and then turned around and went back home. I hope he writes a little RR because he had some adventure along the way too, and took some really cool roads through Cali I think.

I was able to find a good place in Guaymas on the 16th but I dropped the bike while riding that day which kind of sucked. In Los Mochis I had a run in with the cops, which cost me, and then spent $24 on a hotel unable to find anything cheaper.

Time for a day of rest





After parting ways with my dad in Puerto Peñasco I rode south to Guaymas, Sonora.

We had unknowingly chosen a hotel right next to a night club and I did not get to sleep till after 1am (no I wasn’t at the club). I was tired the next day and probably not drinking enough water to get me through the harsh desert climate. It was easily in the 90s so I stopped to let the bike cool off while I checked the oil and rested for a minute.

That’s when I made a mistake.

I got to talking with a gas station attendant and when he told me how close I was to Guaymas I got excited and and took off riding without checking the bike. Immediately after accelerating I noticed a liquid of some sort splashing up into the air and all over the bike and me. I’m such an idiot! I had forgotten to put the dip stick all the way back in, I was planning to check it again but I forgot! I killed the engine and grabbed some toilet paper to start cleaning the bike. There was oil everywhere. I decided to go back to the gas station and clean up. While trying to make a 180 degree turn on soft gravel I dropped the bike. My leg got caught underneath and I had to loosen my pant legs and boots to get my foot out.

Luckily I was fine but what happened next I will never forget.

A couple pulled over to help, then another truck stopped and two guys got out. The bike was laying on its side on an incline and I gladly accepted help to pick it up. Not even a scratch to the bike! They helped me out and after I assured them that everything was ok and I pushed the bike a few hundred feet back to the gas station. Then the cops showed up (good ones, not like the ones that come later in this story). I assured them I was ok and while I cleaned the bike a little I think I repeated my name a dozen times while they tried to pronounce it into the radio. They made a report. Then the Red Cross pulled up and asked me if I was the guy who had fallen.

“Yes I am thanks for stopping, gracias a dios estoy bien.“

“Ok well those guys are coming too, to check over you”

And so the ambulance showed up and five guys got out to make a report and check on me. “Yup, totally fine!” I said with a big smile.

I rested for a while, bought some oil from the mechanic across the street and topped off the bike. It was down just a little bit, I hadn’t lost much oil but what did leak out made a huge mess. Oh well, I guess I needed to be reminded that I should not ride at all if I haven’t gotten a good nights sleep. Could have been worse, I got my warning , I should be more careful.

More mexican road hazards: why is everything always on fire? Makes me feel like mad max sometimes






Sunset in Los Mochis, the only nice thing about Los Mochis.
The day after the spill, I had a run in with the cops



The day before I arrived in Mazatlan I had an interesting encounter. I got pulled over in Los Mochis for driving the wrong way on a one way street while looking for a hotel. There was a never ending median and I pulled a U-turn and drove about a hundred feet back to a hotel I had passed. No traffic so no problem right? When you drive a big orange bike the cops watch you and the corrupt ones are there just waiting for you to mess up. I messed up.

Franco had warned me about this scenario.

“The office where you pay the infraction is closed today so we better settle this right here” said the cop. The other one waited patiently behind him with a rifle.

I began a long speech about how I was tired and hungry and I didn’t have much money because I was hoping to write about my travels and make money along the way (kind of true) and then I went on and on about unrelated things, doing my best Cantinflas. Cantinflas was a Mexican comedian who talked his way in and out of trouble all the time. I learned a few things from watching his movies. I could see the cop was getting bored with me and I kept hinting at a tiny 50 peso bribe which seemed to annoy him less and less by the minute. Finally he told me it had to be 300. That seemed a bit low from what others have told me. So I whipped out 200 pesos ($17) and he took them. Yes! Success! Well kind of. I found the nearest hotel and I gave up trying to find a better deal that night. The manager was cool though and he gave me a discount.

Since $20 a day is my budget, not counting gas, I was pretty bummed about Los Mochis and I hope to make up the difference down the road, staying with people I meet and eating cheap.

In Mazatlan I was pleasantly surprised with what I found. I enjoyed the city so much on my first afternoon that I decided to stay another night.






Arriving in Mazatlan





Some have it pretty good here



Others, not so much



I went to a play, Los Cazadores de Acentos Perdidos




Drank some coffee, Mayan Coffee right near the Hotel Lerma




The Hotel Lerma 110 Pesos






Went to the beach, walked around, enjoyed myself.

I learned that if you dont plan rest days they probably wont happen, rest days are important if you dont want to burn out.

Saludos,
Ryan

Yup, I rode my 1977 R100/7, left from Bellingham, WA. and ran down I-5 due to time constraits and then back up.
Fun adventrue.
kurt (dad)

As a dad it is dificult to pass up the chance to ride w. my son, more so since he will be gone on this extended trip for quite some time.

I left Bellingham and headed directly south down the interstate, I-5, it is the fastest route since I still have a job and needed to return in a relatively short period of time. I crossed the border at Otay, CA. Border guard made eye contact and waved me across, never even put my feet down. A mile down the road I find my son waiting for me, nice. Nice is probably a lighter version of a huge big sigh of relief. He warned me of the potholes and mentioned the riding rules are different than Bellingham, WA. Interesting and quick ride on the east side of TJ, and yes, lots of potholes and not a lot of regard for traffic laws, you just kind of make it work without being rude, very exciting to say the least, yeah, exciting. Rode across the desert towards Mexicali, fueled up w. the slash 7's first taste of Mexican fuel. Roads were great, very little traffic. Stayed in Sonoyta and had meat tacos on the side of the road for breakfast, the meat was great and I decided not to find out its orgin. Fresh seafood for dinner n Rocky Point. We had a couple of great days of riding and just hanging out together, good stuff. We parted ways and I headed alone northbound and crossed at Sonoyta, MX into the US at Lukeville, AZ. My rear tire had a toll taken on it from the numerous construction detours that routed us on dirt, gravel and pitrun w/ sharp rocks so I headed to Tucson and Iron Horse BMW for a new rear tire. Then west. After a day of high winds and my mileage dropping from the usual 40mpg to 31mpg I found a hotel and as i drove up I noticed 3 very shiny Harleys parked out front. On a bike you are always concerned about the bike sitting in a parking lot while you sleep and dream of the days riding so I first mentioned to the guy standing by them w. Mississippi plates that those 3 bikes were really cool. I asked where he thought I could park my bike for the night, he looks over to my bike and asks me is that your black BMW? Yes, that's mine. He says you should park that black bitch next to the Harleys, NO ONE will mess with your little bitch. Okay. Done. Next day I continue west and hit I-5 at the Grapevine and rode in slushly snow. Couple of days later I am almost home. Almost, bike is in Salem, OR at the BMW shop waiting for a failed part that is under warrenty, vendor only asked where to ship his failed part, thank you. So I rode home on the Amtrak and will return next week to finish this ride and close the chapter on Mexico, for now. I expected grat things from Mexico and was not disappointed, I will for sure return to Mexico. Great adventure on an old slash 7.
Thanks Ryan for the invite to join you on a portion of your adventure.
Oh yeah, I need to book a southbound Amtrak...
kurt
Ryan's dad

Once again, a few days late. I have friends in Mochis that could have put you up in style. Passed here, you're on your own though.

B/W pictures look great....

I have to subscribe for this one too!!

I've fished Puerto Penaso several times.

Great report. I'm subscribed....and jealous!

Nice, I've dreamt of packing the bike and heading south on a moments notice, but I'm sure my wife would still find me.... Seriously, have fun man, sounds like you're well on your way.

Subscribed

Ahhh to be young and able to just up and head out. You have us old married men with children day dreaming. Good luck and be safe I’ll follow your travels as well and live vicariously through your adventures. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

I like your attitude. I wish I'd had more of it when I was younger. Vaya con dios!

Can't wait to see all your photos and hear of your adventures. Good Beer and Safe Travels! By the way....the photography is excellent.

I'd be damn glad your gone!
Enjoying your ride. Riding with my son is the BEST! Too cool.
Ride safe. Check you mirrors all the time. They're crazy down there and I always get nasty surprises when I forget.
Subscribed.

There are crazy people everywhere. I just remember the Betitolara report and, right away from the ferry, one of his crew just got screwed by a car... So it's not only "down there". If you are planning to have a good time with us "latinos" you better strip all your prejudices away and just enjoy the ride... Just my 2 cents, as people "up there" say.

Oh, yes, and for the first time I'm subscribed and waiting for the opportunity to offer my help when this great adventure takes its place in Brasil's northeast.

Ride on, man. Enjoy!

Arjones.

Having lost my dad when I was 7, It makes me really happy for the time I ride or hang out with my son. ( or daughter). It was really cool that your dad joined you for a bit. Ride safe!

More fun to be had! Glad your pops could join. Hopefully he can meet you in Peru, grab a bike & you guys can explore together. I have MANY miles on street, dirt, racing, exploring on two wheels....but my best memories have been & continue to be riding with my dad. Have fun & be smart.