Lobsters to Llamas, Maritimes to Argentina

I wondered how the solitude would go. I cant imagine the countless hours alone like that, day after day after day, month after month after month.
Dont get me wrong, i love solo rides as much as the next guy, but never thought it would get that lonely.
So the question is, do you wish you had found someone else to travel the whole journey with?
And whats with the shitty food??? Damn, thats disapointing. I wouldnt have guessed it to be so bad there. Wicked pisser. I can see why your disgusted with this part of the ride now. All alone, retarded drivers, and shitty food and a wife 6000 miles away so no whamma bamma with momma.

I for one appreciate this live ride report. Its like i know you, but dont. I look forward to reading it daily. I hope you carry on and your spirits lift soon

Ride safe!

I am leaving June 31 for a one year ride, brings the GF to share it all with me. We have a 10 day cruise from vancouver to fairbanks in august. Putting the bike onna barge so when we get off the big boat, its waiting for us. Then we have 4 months to get to acapulco, we have a resort booked for a week there at Xmas. Then spend 5 slow month staying warm in the south wherevers. Till its time to be home.
I am "semi-retired-sabbaticalled-unemployed-overqualified" hobo, that dont know what I wanna be when I grow up

You know, i dont normally mind being by myself. I like to meet people and find it very easy to strike up a conversation. I does get tedious though when you go days on end without meeting anyone because of the language barrier. Even that is not really a stumbling block if the other person is willing to try and understand. I really got a kick out of meeting those two Lima girls at Houlihans. They talked away to me like I could understand and I didn't have clue what they were saying, but it was still fun to hear them talk away to me.

The girls at the front desk at the Hotel in Paracas have very little English but they really tried to talk to me and we struggled through. My room did not have a towel and after some charades they got me a towel and then wanted to know the Inglese word. They taught me the Spanish word which sounds something like toya. That stuff is a challenge and I find it fun.

Nights like this kinda suck. I don't want to leave the hotel because of the large crowd outside. It makes for a long night waiting for the music to stop.

I think Jana and Malene and Lawrence and Niko must be on an overnight bus to Cusco because I've not heard from them since Malene emailed yesterday and said we'll see you in Cusco. I sent them some emails so they will know where I am when they get internet again.

I think the people that like SA food eat mostly fish. I can't stand seafood of any description. Never liked it and never will. Just the smell of a piece of Salmon in a restaurant that someone else is eating is enough to put me off my meal. I live in the "Lobster Capital of the World" and there is not enough money in the World to pay me to eat a Lobster. Not in this lifetime..

But seriously how hard is it to make a hamburger that's not ground gristle? I just don't get it.

You know me....I'm Kedgi

That sounds like an outstanding trip. Great to have GF go with you. That just wasn't possible in my case.

While seafood may be popular, not to worry, when I traveled to Argentina/Chile there was no problems being a carnivore.. I thought the beef/lamb was most excellent.

New to your RR - great job - your trip is on my bucket list as well! I was there via backpacking/hiking/climbing the last time. Put El Chalten, AR on your list and spend some time there...

Ride safe and enjoy!

Dwight,

You certainly seem a bit "down in the dumps". Hopefully, Argentina can pull you out of your slump.

I have to ask, and I have refrained from doing so because I didn't want to be offensive, but what did you expect the food to be like while you were travelling? There seems to be some great disappointment at the local fare. Personally, when I travelled a lot for work, I learned to try lots of new things to immerse myself in the local culture, and got to enjoy that part. My wife can certainly attest that stepping outside my comfort zone was NOT something I was akin to do very often, and now that I learned HOW to, travelling is certainly enriched.

I've been reading your RR with great interest because you are a fellow Maritimer, and having hosted Radioman last year who took a very similar route to yours and has had spectacular experiences, it almost seems from my perspective that you're not having much fun - and if that's not the case, I'll certainly read from the beginning again to see what I missed.

Stay safe, have fun and experience the culture! You're able to ride the trip I can only dream about right now!

Welcome aboard!

Kedgi

There is no doubt I am down in the dumps at this point. Riding in Peru has been a lot of things. Fun is not one of them. Other portions of the trip have been excellent. Even outstanding.

I don't know what to say about what i expected in the way of food. I don't like anything fancy, in fact when I lived in Vancouver I found it hard to eat there too at the "better" restaurants, way too much Cilantro, Fish, mushroom sauces, vimagrette dressings, brussell sprouts for my liking and for my taste. I just like plain meat and potatoes and I love chicken..I never expected to be so hard to get a white piece of chicken. How can all the chicken be greasy and dark? What do they do with the rest? Why are hamburgeusas ground gristle instead of meat? Why does Carne Asada always come out like shoe leather? Seriously you could get a more tender cut at Hartt Shoes in Fredericton. I had a piece in northern Colombia you couldn't cut with a torch let alone chew. I tried the entire time we were at the table and could not eat a single bite. I just couldn't chew it. My Chicago friend Dylan had the same thing, same result. We joked that since we couldn't even change the shape of it they will likely sell it again after we leave. i guess I;m just surprised at the shockingly poor food whether it's the preparation or the raw material in general it is awful. Ground gristle is not something you can learn to like.

I have had lots of fun on this trip. Met excellent people, ridden outstanding roads, seen magnificent scenery,been to great beaches etc., but to imagine a trip like this can be all fun is unrealistic. Tonight I've waited for three hours to go to bed. I have a very long day tomorrow, I had a very trying day today. that's not fun. As I type this someone is screaming into a speaker system that would deafen KISS. it's 12:13 I hope it stops soon.

I have authors of other ride reports tell me they wished they had been more honest about their reporting. There is nothing fun about standing around for four and a half hours at a Central American border in steaming tropical heat. Nothing. Very few writers tell you that. They don't even mention it.

I can't think of a single Ride Report that mentions the thousand or more miles of bleak desert you cross in Peru just to get to the mountains. Except for in the book "Lois on the Loose" Limas insane traffic is barely mentioned. Lois does and outstanding job of telling how it is almost suicidal to ride there. I don't think I even thought to mention the car that was so close to me he hit my foot as i put it down to stop. drivers here hate it if you pass them. I passed a guy in a small town today, next, I'm trying to pass a truck and I relaize the a-hole I just passed is now right beside me. Shring the lane with me about 2mm's from my sadlle bags, right beside me while Im looking around the truck. I mean WTF? So irresponsibly dangerous. he's toying with my life? Cause he didn't want me to pass him? Moronic driving! Scary, but not fun.

I don't remember reading one report that mentions how some of Colombia's best roads are absolutely plugged solid with heavy trucks and buses. there seem to be more trucks in Colombia than in the entire USA. that is what I have encountered. That's what i write. It is not always fun and sometimes its downright depressing.


I just try to tell it like I see it. With the exception of the great time I had in Lima, Peru has been very taxing. I'm constantly hungry, the riding sucks out loud. boring roads, intense heat and very windy and bleak scenery and absolutely insane drivers.

I have had absolutely maddening trouble with bank and credit cards. Enough to piss off the Good Humor Man. I don't remember anyone else warning about that. I write about it because I want other riders that follow to avoid that experience.

It may be because I write almost daily that the frustrations of each day are fresh in my mind but what I write is true to the day's experience. SA can be a very frustrating place, especially when you are by yourself and don't speak the language.

I can think of rides that would be easier and more fun but I still recommend this ride. Some parts are excellent, some are decidedly anything but.

I'm glad you asked. No offense taken.

Kedgi

There is a consolation to all your current 'trials and frustrations' to look forward too - "its like bumping your head against the wall - it great when you stop!" Soon you will be through it all and into something refreshingly new!

I have been known in the past to kick the door of vehicles that come too close. Gets immediate and amusing reactions from the drivers too!

keep going Kedgi, Peru will fade away.
one near miss in a day sets me off for a long time..combine that with the heat and desert and there is good reason to be a little pissed at the current situation...but it will change for the better

long way off but if you need a pit stop in Bangor Maine area...plenty of space here..

Dwight,
You have my complete support...and sympathy. I know exactly where you are coming from and love your passion and honesty. If I had been with you I prolly would have packed it in by now. Some people don't understand that as we get on into the 'bucket list' side of our lives most of us can say we have been thru the shyte before. So why the Hell go thru it again. At least in my case.
But you are gettin thru it, brother. Hang in there. Argentina awaits.
Toad

Hey Dwight.

Add me to the list of those supporting you. Right now I have no plans of even going to get the mail in this miserable cold snap here. I too deteste the cold and have plans to retire south soon. Trying to look at the bright side, maybe you need to show them how to prepare a good meal. Say...a small restaurant catering to traveller's stomachs? Turn lemons into lemonade? A place near the beach where the english speaking travellers will seek you out. "Dwight's Done Right Diner" A secure place to park a bike and relax. Maybe someone's trying to tell you something. You've discovered a void. Take a deep breath. Vancouver is awesome I agree, but how long will your nest egg last there vs where you are now (SA)? As I said to my girl last fall while we were touring NS on our GS's and got lost near Larry's River south of Guysborough (Zumo quit!) , low on fuel and stressed..."Who's going to feel sorry for you?" Meaning which one of your friends wouldn't trade places with you right now? Three weeks off, touring Canada at will on a motorcycle. Poor Baby. Dwight's travelling South America on a motorcycle with his wife's blessing and can't get a good bite to eat? All said with good intent my friend.

I'm like you in a lot of ways. Live in the moment. Your RR will make you wish you were still there when reading it years later.....

"Just remember, I'm pullin' for ya. We're all in this together. Keep your stick on the ice!" Red Green

Hiya,
sorry to hear your food woes.
Buy a stove,a nonstick pan and a ribsteak.
Sod off somewhere tranquil.
Whack it up til the fat's smoking.
Throw a ribsteak in,a minute each side.
Eat in buttered bread.
Relax!
Brill R/R - many thanks

If its any consolation Kedgi, the windchill is forecast to be between -35C and -40C for all of New Brunswick tomorrow. I predict your current feelings are temporary. Remember, it has been a long trip and you have not had much of a break recently. Just look at the numbers of folks who are following your report! You are a tremendous inspiration to us, even when we know in our heart of hearts, that we will not be able to take such a trip. Can't wait to meet you when you get back and hear some stories.

Kedgi
I am enjoying reading about your travels, I like the fact that you are putting your emotions and feelings, all your sadness, and enjoyments all of into this report. Keep your chin up, keep on going, remember it will get better. and so will the food, sounds like it can't get much worse.

There are damn sure going to be some bad days traveling on a bike down South, but there should always be a whole lot more good ones than bad or it's probably time to do something different

You are in some of the greatest high country mountain pass roads in the World, go get off the PanAm and find you some good highs.
The more effort you put into trying to learn the language the more dividends you will earn on your investment. Being deaf and mute is not fun

Thanks for sharing your report, hope things start getting brighter for you


Best of Luck,
John

I threatened to kick a car tonight. One of these morons who tries to squeeze up beside you in traffic. It happened in Cusco. Yup, I made it over 600k today and I'm in Cusco. The streets are cobblestone and they were wet tonight. I'm struggling with a 600 plus pound bike after a 11.5 hour ride and some jerk in a taxi almost got a boot.

I feel better already. I had a wonderful day in the mountains. I had almost forgot how to go around a corner after so many days in the desert. It all came back to me though. I saw everything today from 90 degree heat to Ice Pellets.

I got to Cusco after dark. Tough place to find parking for a bike! I finally found a secure lot two blocks up the street from my hostal. No ideal but it will work. I could ride around on slick cobblestones in heavy traffic looking for a place any longer. I had to settle for what I found. I was on the road at 7am and got here at 8:30PM. Great ride, but enough was enough.

I'll write more later and i took some pictures but that will be Manana, too tired tonight.

and thanks for the offer in BGR


Kedgi

Thanks John, they are. I had a wonderful ride from Nazca to Cusco today. Good pavement, very light traffic, fun!

I wish I knew more Spanish. Nevr had the opportunity to take it in school. I am going to work on it , for sure. It is so frustrating not speaking the language, especially when you are alone.

Dwight