the DR650 thread

Hey, Obard:

Thanks for the follow-up.

Wait-a-minit

How far did you have to get in the engine? Were you able to fish out the pieces and reinstall them?

Go to a specilty bearing house like Kaman Bearings

I don't have an answer for you.....but that's a beautiful dash!

Sam,

I think those lights come with a relay designed to go to the battery. The switch on the bar will run the relay.

I can not think of any reason ever to wire to the stator. I'm not even sure the stator is dc power- I think it gets converted by the rectifyer. Dont quote me on that though...

i dont know if its the same for bikes but when i cut some rust out of my car a local paint specialist looked on the VIN plate (the information plate on the frame/chassie) and pulled the colour code off it and mixed up a pressure pack can of the paint that was the exact match for me.

Thinking about relocating my key switch with a DRZ keyswitch and an HDB key switch mount. Has anyone done this? I thought I saw something a while back that you need to install a resistor on one of the wires?

Does anyone know what the fattest tire is you can run on the front and rear on a stock DR650?

My DR won't turn-over/ start after changing out the handlebars.

Well, I knew this was a possibility based on the experience of a friend 25 years ago... but it was an off-day and I didn't test the bike at all after installing them yesterday.

So my morning commute was changed from a ride with my new bars to driving the truck.

I'm quite sure I must have pulled some wire connection that didn't want pulled.

Where, kind sirs, in your experiences would you have me look first?

Symptoms:

Turn key on - get the neutral green light and the light for the high beam.

Push start button - nothing changes.

Rider - sitting on bike, dressed for cooler weather and work, laughing at himself... then pushing the bike back to its parking space, later driving off in a 1999 F-150 sans motorcycling gear.

Are you looking for fattest, or tallest? I went for the gearing change of taller, but am sure there is still room for more.

Which is the better upgrade for my DR

TM-40 Pumper Carburetor

Keihin FCR MX39 Carburetor

And will both work?


Any thoughts?

​

Jeff - I've had both so yes, they'll both work. I had the FCR but sold it as my son's bike had the TM40 and I wanted the bikes to be as identical as possible for long range travel.

They'll both work well and I really couldn't tell the difference...other than a slightly harder throttle twist with the TM. The FCR has a roller slide so twist resistance is minimal.

Unless you want to get really spendy, you'll most likely get a used FCR, modded for the DR. Even if you do it yourself, some parts will be new, some old. The FCR is a more complex carb. The cables are more protected at the carb but is a neglible item unless you plan on packing mud in there. It hasn't been an issue on the TM nor have I ever read of it being one.

The TM-40 is brand new. It's also not as tight as a fit as the FCR.

I got my TM-40 from Procycle and asked them to set it up for me based on mods to the bike & elevation. Plug & play and I haven't touched it after the install.

I did aim the squirt tube at the needle prior to install based on a recommendation from Tech23. Runs perfect.

Mambo Dave,

Only 3 things you messed with that could do that:
Kill switch
Clutch safety switch (remove if you haven't already)
Starter switch

I've been foiled by the kill switch more than once, always the first thing I check now!

Clutch safety switch will leave you stranded at an inopportune time if it fails, better to bypass it now and not have to worry about it. Just means you have to pay more attention when starting the bike, lord knows I've nearly bumped mine off the sidestand a few times when I didn't put it in neutral first!

Starter switch is a known weak link on these bikes. Mine failed miserably and was replaced with a Highway Dirt Bikes switch assembly that is much more robust and half the price of OEM.

I would start with those three. There's not really anything that would be affected in the wiring harness while changing bars unless you were really tugging on the wires and cables. If something came unplugged, it would probably be behind the headlight shroud.

Tim

Does HDB make a switch assembly or just the mount for a switch? I was just wondering about this a couple posts above.

According to the tire fitment chart that I have the widest tire recommended for a 1.85 (Stock front rim width) is a 90, and for the 2.50 rear, a 130. Any larger and the tire design profile is distorted.

If you want wider than that it's time to get new wider rims. The supermoto style 17's with a 3.50 front and 4.25 rear rim width usually run a 120 f and 150 r.

I have the 'adventure' setup on my bike with a 110/19 f and 150/17 r.

My own experience, I have a Heidenau 140/80-17 Scout on the rear.
Lots of room.

Thanks Tim!

LOL, the only area I played with to get it to start was around the kill/starter switch wire area, TOTALLY forgetting about the clutch switch (or to even look to that side) before heading off to work. I'll look when I get home.

Did you bypass it at the clutch handle? Just solder the wires together?

Just chase the wires to where they conect behind the cowl, diconnect them and plug them to themselves to make it a complete circut. This is the easiest mod on the bike, plus it's reversable.

I didn't realize so many were doing this mod. Awesome! Thanks for the reply!

Yup!

so I picked up some rear wheel bearings and seals yesterday and went with KML 6204 and 6205 mainly because that is all anyone had in stock locally. The seals are in question though, I have a 30-4709 and a 30-5207, does anyone know if these are the right ones?

The kill switch. Press and release. I think that will cure your problem.

TravelGuy