viola-tor's MPG problem thread

I don't know if someone answered this yet, but the sensors probably have a reference voltage coming out of the ECU and it might be shared. From my dealings with my bike if a sensor or something is screwy it seems to run super rich and mileage drops in the 20's. (when I had Map sensor problems)

First I would check the what the reference should be and what the reference voltage is at the sensor. If this is wrong I would disconnect the sensors then test it at the ECU.

If its right at the ECU, I would start looking into the wiring. Ktm's wiring is so ugly it wouldn't surprise me if you had a short or partial short somewhere.

And they still can fail due to heavy rain (don't ask how I know )

It's starting to seem that a wiring/connector could very well be the culprit. This all started after I did the Canni/Flappi and put it back together. Makes sense to me... I'll dig in again and give a slight twist to every connecter pin I can find and use the contact cleaner William has recommended (ordering it now).

Good thing I love this bike! :huh

And I must add: The crashbar and bashplate stud mods are SOOO nice if you have to tear into your bike on a regular basis.

Diek: hate to see you having these problems brother: I might know where you can find a set of carbs if you finally decide you just want to be done with it.

While you are cleaning all of the connectors throw some dielectric grease on them too.

I have almost gone to carbs a few times. Sadly I carry an extra 500 dollar fuel pump and filters.

as a mechanic that is a specialist in fuel injection.. . .

I am highly, far and beyond offended that someone would do such a thing to a fine EFI bike.

the ONLY type of conversions I would not find offensive - a diesel motor swap, and can only be done on some other types of bikes, and really only practical if frame is free and gas motor is blown,

Or buying & building a microsquirt, and using stock KTM injectors, or more dynamic lb flow ones, and using bits and pieces of ends of the ktm wiring plus to interface to the microsquirt.

carbs on a 990 ?? .....stone knives and bear skins ..wash your mouth out with ethanol

.. the other day, YESTERDAY, I worked on an australian made 1991 mercury capri turbo...rare kinfolk to a cosworth escort... owner got quoted like $1600 for new distributor & main computer. ( not my quote )

I had a 1-on-1 with the old performance coupe, 45-60 min in ..some no ox and a slight 5 degree twist on the hall effect sensor wires way inside the distributor, what could also be called an ignition module or pickup sensor,... and bang zoom.. the tach test wire started throwing signal again. (cap n rotor still off ) ...then back together and it was up to full power again. . The hall sensor wasnt my first guess... I no ox'd the ecm contacts and cam sensor, to no result.

I have a date with the garage today, going to tackle as many electrical connectors as I can get my hands on to clean with Deoxit, and give the pins all a slight twist.

Any tips/thoughts about servicing the rubber O-rings on the connectors? Q-tip and alcohol? Simple Green? Then light grease or oil?


And another question: Is the "Air Inlet Temp Sensor" that is reading as an error code the same as the "Ambient Air Temp Sensor" that is listed in the Microfiche? If so, it's only $16, so that'd be easy/cheap to replace.


Diek

I would imagine so because I can't think of any other reason why the ECU would want to know the temperature of the outside air. It would have to know this to match the A/F ratio to either cold, dense air or hot, not-as-dense air.

Wheeler said it sounded like a sensor went bad. It would make sense that if that sensor went bad the ECU would default to dumping in more fuel as a limp-home mode instead of leaning it out to the point where it might not even run....

Do you realize that if this is the problem you've spent how much time/effort/$$$ in extra gas for a $16 part? I'd almost have that damn thing overnighted.

And what is the part number for the TPS? I don't see it listed as such...







ORDER
QTY
REF.
NO.
PART NO.
THROTTLE BODY
DESCRIPTION
990 ADVENTURE
ORANGE
RETAIL
PRICE EACH
KTM Twins
PRICE EACH

1
61041001000
THROTTLE BODY CPL.
1
$1,053.99
$1,053.99

50
61041040000
INTAKE TRUMPET
2
$7.99
$7.99

60
61041085100
PRESSURE SENSOR
3
$117.49
$117.49

61
61041085150
RUBBER SUPP. PRESSURE SENS.
3
$4.99
$4.99

63
57013070100
PVC-CLAMP 7,9 MM HEYCO 3355
1
$0.99
$0.99

64
61041085060
SUPPORT PRESSURE SENSOR
1
$4.99
$4.99

65
0016050121
SCREW FOR PLASTIC 50X12
2
$0.49
$0.49

66
61041080000
AMBIENT-AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1
$15.99
$15.99

67
0081500181
SCREW FOR PLASTIC D=5X18
2
$0.99
$0.99

68
61041088000
ROLLOVER SENSOR
1
$43.99
$43.99

69
61041088050
SHIM 4,3X15X1,25MM GALVANIZED
2
$0.99
$0.99

70
0985040203
FLAT HEAD SCREW DIN7985-M 4X20
2
$0.49
$0.49

71
61036023100
VACUUM CONECTION
2
$10.49
$10.49

72
61041095050
HOSE 3,2X8,5 L=50 MM
1
$2.49
$2.49

73
60141095125
HOSE 3,2X8,5 L=125 MM 06
2
$3.49
$3.49

Diek,
I would use silicone grease on the rubber O-rings rather than light grease or oil. Depending on the rubber compound (which appears to be very soft) petroleum based oil or grease may attack the rubber. Silicone (Dow Corning or Parker O ring) is generally very benign with most rubber/synthetic materials.

The 2011 model shows the separate part for $109 - 61041077000 Throttle position sensor

Taken from http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701742 Cortesy of Zuber

Update:

Bike is STILL down, trying to patiently move forward. It's killing me, but have no choice. Gorgeous fall weather in Texas...

A mechanically minded friend came over today, gave a lesson in diagnosing the wiring harness, which we found to be okay (relating to the TPS and temp sensors, which are operating fine). Air temp sensor was also tested using heat-gun, it is working.

His educated guess is that the FUEL PUMP may actually be the issue, specifically the pressure regulator which is at the top of the fuel pump "tower." The hypothesis being that if there is a piece of crud in there that it could be stuck open and is screwing with the fuel pressure, thusly dumping fuel in, creating all the errors. Still don't know why I'm getting an air temp sensor error code...

The pressure regulator looks like it can be removed (but not taken apart as far as I can tell), but is not offered for sale as a separate component. Entire fuel pump assembly is $500. Anyone know of a drop-in compatible regulator?

Need to source the two large o-rings that mate the pump to the gas tanks too, one of them is shredded and KTM wants $47 each!!!! :huh:huh:huh:huh:huh Anyone have a connection on those with specific sizes?

Thoughts?


We are going to hook it all back up and do a fuel pressure test with the bike running, but don't know when. I guess I need o-rings and need a few other bits to make that happen.

The oring:
1201T321 MIL-Spec Viton(R) Fluoroelastomer O-Ring, AS568A Dash Number 932, Packs of 10
From mcmaster online

It's $14 for 10. This is the upper one. I doubt you'll have to change the lower one. I've never had to.

My spare pump isn't available at this time or i would have sent it to you.

You are a boss!

Craig at CJ designs stocks them too. Upper and lower I believe. :)

Put the carbs on and be done with it. Its very easy and your bike will run great and smother.
I just put carbs on my 2007 ktm 990 adventure and thats the best thing for the bike.

That's not off the table. How involved is it? Pretty much plug-n-play?

Which carbs? From a 950, or some exotic?

Here's a link to the conversion:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14832006&postcount=16

Hmmmm, not exactly for a shoe-string budget. We'll see where this goes. There is a lot I like about FI, and that may not even be my problem. Carbs are black-magic too... Thanks for the link.

Hope you get things worked out.

The cost is pretty substantial to do a Carb conversion for most... thought you might like to know the facts.