Hi, Never started a thread before. But I have a few particular questions that will otherwise be lost in bigger topics. Hope you don't mind. Reason I never started this thread is because of frustration and denial. Thinking that if I didn't have to ask a few questions, the problems wouldn't exist Sadly, as with any ktm so it seems, there is no escaping repair/maintenance/dealer time nightmare. But now it's time to address a few things, because it is starting to get out of hand. Time to not be this guy => Some facts: - it's a 2007/2008 bike, no ABS. I was hoping to eek out a few thousand kms last year to get me through the 2014 season but it totally bailed on me. (which is perhaps one of the reasons I angrily tossed the key and didn't want to deal with this thing). I don't think it's worth anything anymore. So I either try to fix it, or make something out of it as a second bike (but trying to keep the costs down), or loose the whole thing. Which means I'm kinda stuck with the bike. - the problems it has: stalling. When closing the throttle and pulling the clutch, it drops to what is supposed to be idle rpm but it just stalls (one fell swoop). Sometimes it doesn't, sometimes it does it 10 times in a row, and starts eating up my battery so I can't start it again. Mind you this was last year, all I did this year was ride it to the nearest dealer to try to have it fixed (didn't stall but too short a ride to tell) - Dealer checked the valves (expensive, as they whole bike need to be dismantled, lots of labour): that wasn't it. Apparently running the diagnostic, it showed a FI error (not on the dash, although after the diagnostic, suddenly the dash warning came back too) That's where I am now, I'm picking the bike back up tomorrow (nothing resolved) . The mechanic told me that changing the throttle bodies would be a 1000 euro repair (not including labour). I don't want to put that kinda money in the bike anymore (but if I don't, as I told you, it would be useless) So here are a few questions to get me started: I'll have more information tomorrow, but is that part really that expensive? Or could I find aftermarket options, or maybe even the same thing from a different brand altogether? (Keihin throttle bodies?) Which good shop manual could you recommend? One that has the mother load for taking a bike apart to the bone? I know they used to exist for older bikes, is there a good one for a 2007-2008 990 adventure? If I make this a "project" bike to develop some mechanical "tinkering" skills, nothing else will phase me. Next step up is a roll royce turbine engine Unrelated: cheap plastic bits. I searched, couldn't find any. I had a little slide on tarmac with the bike. And of course the plastics got bruised, like chipped on different points where it was too stressed. Also the windscreen is kinda out of shape and damaged. I saw in the 1190 topic, that it is possible to buy cheap black plastic body parts for the 1050. Like 60 euro a wing... That's exactly what I'm after, because I would paint them myself anyway. Original ktm parts are like 280 euros for small wings, I don't even want to know what the side panels cost. And because they're also the fuel tanks... Anyway, this will do for now. I will evaluate tomorrow where I want to go with this, but any pointers would help out a lot in making up my mind. Thanks in advance!
First take it out of that dealer. Replacing the throttle bodies is a lazy, expensive method of fixing any potential issues with the throttle bodies. But at least your valve clearances should be set right. Did they also put new spark plugs in? This will allow for a fresh start to check that your throttle bodIes are balanced correctly, idle speed and Throttle position sensors are set right. You will need a cable which connects your ECU to your computer so you can use TuneECU to diagnose your issue. Did they tell you what the FI error code was for?
"So here are a few questions to get me started: I'll have more information tomorrow, but is that part really that expensive? Or could I find aftermarket options, or maybe even the same thing from a different brand altogether? (Keihin throttle bodies?)" I like others do not think you'll need new throttle body. At the most maybe a THROTTLE POS. SENSOR CPL. 61041077000 $101.49 US or possibly a GEAR-POSITION SENSOR 06 60011023100 $32.99 US. It may also be the wiring issue mentioned in another post. "Which good shop manual could you recommend? One that has the mother load for taking a bike apart to the bone? I know they used to exist for older bikes, is there a good one for a 2007-2008 990 adventure?" KTM 950 990 LC8 Repair Manual DVD 3206160 $24.95 US is pretty good but you will probably get lots more info from KTM Hall of Wisdom http://ktm950.info/ . I do use the DVD from time to time and especially when doing my valves. Your going to want to get the TuneECU cable and download software for that which will help you a great deal. Google both. I think with all the help here you'll be able to line out your bike. It is by far not a lost cause. Make double sure your throttle cable is adjusted properly and maybe get a fuel pump kit. Fellow inmate here has those. Just have faith and go at it with the confidence that it can be fixed and it will not cost you tremendously, unless, you do have a repair shop do it. Check thouroughly for vaccum leaks.
Thx for the replies, guys. Rode it back yesterday, about 280 km's from where it was at a dealers workshop. Basically they checked the valves, and they were pretty in much within spec. (bike has 50000km). As mentioned, it was not at all the solution to the stalling problem. I was told it held its idle at startup, but no further than from the parking lot to the first set of traffic lights, it stalled 4-5 times. Lots of highway after that, but still managed to stall about 8 times when slowing down or having to come to a stop. A stressful ride for sure. Now it stalls even at startup, fires up and stalls immediately. The FI light was on (wasn't on before I dropped it at the dealers. I guess that hooking it up to their diagnostics somehow 'fixed' the FI light) If I could just solve that already, it would go back from being a wreck to a usable bike (one which I could trash around because everything else on it looks trashed too ) As I said, if it is a 1000-1500 euro repair, i'd rather not take the risk. I could do all that and still end up with a broken bike. If it is 200 euro, and some of my spare time, then why not. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty. i'm definitely not a pro mechanic, but I understand mechanics well enough, and I'm precise and disciplined when it comes to handiwork. Ktm's are notoriously difficult so that's one big throw in the deep end of the pool I will definitely need a repair manual. I remember when I was younger seeing those Haynes manuals around. Exploded views, pictures, ... I'd like to take a look at that before getting into anything. Preparation is half the work. DVD's don't do it for me, it's difficult to browse around on a dvd, and you're stuck at the pace of the dvd (slow). I prefer reading. At the dealers they told me they have these books, but he couldn't sell it to me even if he wanted to. (not allowed from ktm) I understand when talking about a newer model (1050-1190) that are the bread and butter of the dealers. But for older ones? Come on, ktm! Don't be this corporate Anyway. The fault code was '57' Don't know if that makes any sense? And apparently all I need is the stepper motor (which is the same stepper motor as used in other bikes, so I need to find a parts number for that). And the problem is that ktm doesn't have the stepper motor as a separate item and one would need to swap out the whole thing. (which is what makes it expensive) So I'll go research some stuff. If anybody wants to chime in, please feel free
If your stalling issue is due to the secondary butterflies slamming shut when you roll off the throttle and starving the TB's of air, it is possible that the throttle cables are not adjusted properly. You pretty much need to hook the bike up to TuneECU or the KTM computer to properly adjust the cables on the 990 to get proper secondary butterfly position when you roll off the throttle. If the stepper motor itself bad, I suppose that simply removing the secondaries might solve the stalling issue as well, however I'm not sure if the TPS also gets input from the stepper? Anyone have any other thoughts on this?
So after a long hiatus, here's an update. The bike is still in my possession. Didn't want to pay KTM for an injector unit (1300 euro). In the state my bike is in (not starting, not idling, not running, because of FI) and overall condition, it isn't even worth 1300 euro. All this because they don't sell parts of that assembly separately. All I probably needed was the stepper motor within. Anyway, today I bought a KTM supderduke LC8 engine - 2010, supposedly (but who knows, it's just the engine, 15000km). Had to be quick about it, I don't even know if it will fit in the adventure 990. So here's a few questions 1. are the super duke and adventure engine compatible? (same frame mounts, ...?) 2. what's best, swap the whole engine? (mine is at 45000km - 2008), keep the original for parts and use the one I bought? Or find the injector, and swap it out? Will everything still talk to each other? I've got plenty to learn, and this will be my first major mechanical adventure. From reading the manuals, I gather that the LC8 + bike is mechanical witch craft and hell to work on. Otherwise said, for pros only. That said, I'm not an idiot and I will take my time with it. It will probably be great learning experience. Trial by fire. I could bring it into a shop and have them change it, but this needs to be as low-cost as possible as I 'm not trowing any more good money after bad, just want to see it running again. When (IF) I take it apart for this, I will probably strip it down completely to check all the parts and clean everything up, it's in a sad state. (chipped paint, scuff marks on the body panels, quite a bit of patina....) Any other tips/advice you can give me before I get in too deep and screw this up? Thanks
I'm gonna be honest, I have not. At the time I was pretty frustrated with the whole thing. I had just handed it over to a ktm workshop for some other work. Paid quite a bit. And then this happened. So brought it back. According to them, they did "everything". Didn't have much to go on, and not knowing much about where to look first, I took their word for it (probably trying to sell me on that fuel injection unit). Didn't have a garage at the time to take things apart, and where I could take the time to do so. Probably a good place to start indeed. That being said, whatever it is, I got a low mileage engine for the price a second hand set of cases type touratech, or what have you. So I'm ok with that. Even just as a unit for spare parts (clutch, gears, pistons, ...) it's worth it. And I'll learn to work on at least one bike, so I can keep this as my go to project/work bike where I do everything myself. So should costs me not much more after this (and after acquiring the skill to work on it myself).
So I started the "rebuild" this weekend, got a few hours in, and this is where that got me... So the idea is to get this engine: Into this bike: As stated above, this is the first time I attempt something like this. I'm not a full on idiot, but lacking the experience this looks like a tough one. Dismantling to get to the state above is easy, a child with a wrench can get there. Getting everything connected and properly put back together, that is going to be the hard one. I have a few question before going further: The engine is a 2010 supermotard LC8, the adventure is a 2008 adventure S. Will all the connectors, cables, fixing points be the same? I guess I'll find out soon enough. The gear ratios might be different... To get the engine out, they mention a special (dealer-)tool in the manual. Like a plate/bracket that bolts onto the engine casing to be able to take it down, out of the frame. Has anyone lowered and lifted an engine without that part? What other special tools will I need? The idea is to switch the engine (or at least get the FI problem out of the way, switching the engine is a bonus if it works) and giving the bike a general top down overhaul/freshening up. So in general what I have in mind is this: Thorough cleaning Hopefully get it apart up to the frame to do some touch ups on the coating change all (rolling chassis-) bearings while I'm at it. The bike has had a tough life with the PO. paint body panels. probably change the shock and front suspension. Important, this is not my main bike, it's a project bike. So everything that is reusable and that can be refurbished is going back in. So this is where I have another question (something I'd like to start with pretty soon) The fuel tanks are in bad shape. As in flaking and chipped paint from laying the bike down, and the previous owner coated the inside with "heat shielding". (alu foil on a fibre like board, glued on the inside face of the tanks, it's a mess). I hope I can get that off. So here's a few questions concerning the tanks: What products can I use on it? What sort of plastic is it? Can I use acetylene? Sources on that disagree. Can I sand the paint and dakar logo off? Especially the dakar logo will be hard, as it seems "raised" (decal with clear coat?) I want a smooth surface. When I started researching: "Painting plastic tanks", I found that is seems almost impossible. I get that fuel gasses will 'bleed' out of the tank through the plastic, making the paint bubble and crack. But is that the case with these tanks? Is the real tank inside, and is the plastic on top like normal body work? So basically any 'flexible' plastic body paint should work? If they can't be properly repainted, then I have a problem. Spares from KTM are bloody expensive, as I said, I'm on a budget with this one, so everything I can reuse will be reused. Thanks is advance if someone has a few answers here!
The engine is a 2010 supermotard LC8, the adventure is a 2008 adventure S. Will all the connectors, cables, fixing points be the same? I guess I'll find out soon enough. The gear ratios might be different... To get the engine out, they mention a special (dealer-)tool in the manual. Like a plate/bracket that bolts onto the engine casing to be able to take it down, out of the frame. Has anyone lowered and lifted an engine without that part? What other special tools will I need? The SM gear ratios are as the Adventure, but perhaps it would be a good idea to double check to make sure that the engine really is a SM item. Look for the engine number prefix 6?? and that will tell you. As the bottom of the engine is not that flat, I made a simple plate out of plywood that fits to the bottom of the engine and fixes via the front mounting points. Then I use a 2-tonne car trolley jack to lower/install the engine - the plywood protects the engine and provides a flat and grippy surface for the jack. One tip: Replace the swinging arm spindle with a rod/tube that is a bit smaller in diameter so that it is easier to slip in and out while removing and installing the engine.
Have not read the entire thread very good but are you swapping the Engine cause you suspect a faulty throttle body assembly? Or have you confirmed bad compression or that something is actually faulty within the Engine itself? Why not rob the trottle assembly from the other Engine? Is the other Engine for sure a good working Engine? Here are maybe a few Thinks that can help removing the Engine, took some Picture when I had mine out: http://www.dirtyadv.com/lc8-engine-removal-and-engine-stand/ /Johan
Having exactly the same problems. Coming to a stop, pulling the clutch and the bike stalls. It does it from time to time, in periods. Last couple of years it has driven pretty ok, but have tried so many different things, changed maps, adjusting throtle cable, checking valves . It is super annoying and takes away all the pleasure of riding.. Dont know what I did back then to make it ride ok, but it has come back now. Started with rough riding on the highway at low rpm. Always suspected the TPS to be at fault and adjusted the old one at one point, which seemed to help. This time I bought a new TPS and installed it today. Started perfectly, no high rpm as it sometimes does. So this evening I took it for a ride. Coming to a halt in second pulling the clutch and the bike stalls. So tired of this. Next stop for me is removal of the stepper motor or at least parts of it. Seen it done on a 2009 smt so I hope it is the same setup on a 2007 adventure. I love my bike but I hate not knowing whether or not it will stall or not.
You are replacing an engine for a throttle body issue. Try removing the secondary butterflies first. Sounds like thats your issue.
And note that one of Triumph's stepper motors will fit, my google Fu is weak but it's out there with the Triumph part number as well.
