I suspect the air directed to that area by the snorkels has little to do with it. The turbulence and suction created in the airbox will have a far greater effect on where the greatest load is placed on the filter. Any thermodynamic rocket surgeons out there able to calculate the velocity of the air moving through the airfilter into the throttle bodies at WFO at 9000rpm in any gven gear? Clearly an area KTM failed to research properly, even after two model years, but thankfully there is a simple fix that seems to work perfectly! Thanks for the images
I was wondering that last week when I was checking my filter. I believe a nut and bolt could be used on the left side and the rear two screws. The right side would take more imagination due to the threaded portion being inside the box. But I was having a few beers at the time and it could be the other way around.
IIRC it will be hard to get to the more forward screws to replace with nuts / bolts. I was thinking about this when I installed the Uni because 1 of my screws was stripped from the factory. I plan to pull my tank off in the next week or so and look things over closer. I've got a little over 1000 miles since the Uni.
IDK if there would be enough clearance between the clips and the bottom of the tank. I think it's pretty tight.
How can one filter do so well and then another not do as well? Is there a difference in the air boxes or possibly the install method?
One of mine was stripped from the factory too. I'm hoping Rottweiler comes with something pretty quickly. I was wondering about putting some type of soft epoxy in the holes for the screws to bite on??
I think KAG is not running the UNI and doesn't want to because of perceived restrictions. Is this correct??
Manufacturer quality control issues. As one US video has shown on a barely 264 miles "old" 1190 R - this airbox suffers inconsistent production quality levels. In my book this design is simply flawed and needs a total redesign with better seal around the airbox lid edges and improved airfilter retaining clip. The closed encapsulated filterbox beneath 3 plastic covers, a fuel tank and 24 bolts simply mandates a more reliable design solution.
I am sympathetic to the 1190 guys and their issues with the filter and air box. I also put 40 k miles on a 950 SuperMoto with similar airbox and paper filter. So a couple of thoughts: Almost all dirt bikes, KTMs included, have lived with foam filters for years and years, in conditions which are, on average, much dustier than those that any adventure bike sees. Pre filters are very rarely used. Different models of dirt bikes, KTM included, have had some problems with filters sealing against the air boxes. With these bikes it has been an issue of being careful installing the filter so it is properly seated. Most guys are aware of this and use care. many use grease to help seal the filter to the airbox. Foam filters work in the dirt! BUT THEY MUST BE PROPERLY OILED AND SEALED TO THE AIRBOX. Now I realize that the challenges of sealing a round foam dirt bike filter against the flat surface of a dirt bike air box are different than sealing a rectangular paper or foam filter that has to fit into a groove in the airbox and sealed by pressure from the cover. Foam or paper makes no difference. The seal has to be good! I am not turned off by adding grease, silicone seal or duct tape to insure a seal. But I agree and can see how that would not seem right to a guy who just spent $XX,XXX for a new 1190 do-it-all "Adventure" bike. But, if if I'm not up to greasing the lip of the foam filter on my $10,000 dirt bike (whether KTM, Honda or whatever) and spending extra time to be SURE that the filter seals, I will be having the type of premature motor wear/failure that the 1190 guys are correctly worried about. For the 990, I really like the SW7/ITG/Rottweiler/GEFR style foam filter setups which eliminate the airbox completely. Significant performance improvement and way better maintenance access without the airbox. BUT, if like the 990, a pretty significant project with Emissions equipment removal and major Fuel Injection re mapping required. Not necessarily being something to be afraid of. But, if my guess is right, not every rider's cup of tea either. So my thought is to think like a dirt biker and grease, tape, silicone or whatever it takes to seal up the filter. Go with the no airbox setup if you are comfortable. Or......get another bike. I wonder what other problems they have??? FWIW
hell.....broke down and ordered the Uni... just being hard headed. As other options open up I will re-evaluate.
when you release a faulty product. This is the feedback you deserve. So why should people with problems be diverted to go buy a Vstrom is beyond me. A faulty product gets the beating it deserves. Aknowledging the issues, warning customers of potential damage and helping to resolve the issues, creates a happy clientelle. Being reluctant and arrogant, irritates people and asks for hard action. It is as simple as that. No reason to turn against each other. Cheers.
A bit of hot glue will do the trick. Put WD 40 on the self tapper, screw it in and wait until the glue completely sets. Then remove the screw and test the seating or leave in for a nice tight fit.
Good tip Fuzzy! I stripped one one the weekend and just put a bigger self tapper in but I like your idea!