OT: Mtneering boots

Discussion in 'The Rockies – It's all downhill from here...' started by DakarNick, Jan 6, 2010.

  1. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Does anyone in here do any mountaineering? I'm looking at boots and wanted to see what everyone else is wearing or wants to buy next.

    I'm looking for a 3 season that can do some winter, but not be too insulated. For myself, I'd like them to be:

    Compatible with step-in or hybrid crampons
    Leather/synthetic since most plastic boots are for colder weather
    Between $300 and $400

    I've tried on the following so far:

    Asolo Evoluzione
    Lowa Mountain Expert GTX
    Asolo Makalu GV
    Kayland M11+
    Kayland Apex XT
    La Sportiva Trango Extreme EVO Light

    The Lowa Mtn Expert GTX ($350) and Asolo Makalu GV ($380) fit the best. I've been to REI, The Bent Gate, and I plan to go to Wilderness Exchange and Neptune Mtneering when I can.

    Any help or comments would be great!
    #1
  2. justjarrod

    justjarrod sojourner

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    I'm using the next grade down Lowa Banff. I just got a new pair cause the first ones lasted so long and provided great comfort and sup=port. These are the boots I ride in, climb in, and wear anytime I go outdoors. I wore a pair of these on a four day hike down into the GC North Rim and back wearing a 60 lb pack. I'd take 'em mountaineering though they're not specific built for it. They stand up to everything I've thrown at them and I'm not easy on equipment.

    So +2 for Lowa brand boots I guess even though it's probably not the input you're looking for.
    #2
  3. Tellydoug

    Tellydoug Troubador of joy

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    You need to get the ones that fit the best. Period. I've been mountaineering and doing ice 25 years, and you will be in those boots for a loooong time some days if you get into general mountaineering. Make sure they are designed for the temperatures you will be wearing them in. Durability versus weight can be an issue, I have had boots that I loved to wear die in a couple of months of heavy use. Had to go to heavier boots for longevity. Comfort is crucial though, if you don't want to put them on you won't go out. So get what fits best.
    #3
  4. Juicifer

    Juicifer Been here awhile

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    Agreed. Also, I'm beginning to come full circle and realize leather is superior as it tends to have less seams to fail. I dont use an insulated boot unless I'm out overnight or I will only see snow. Otherwise, I just plan on cold feet and live with it. Currently I have Asolo Fugitive GTX's and Scarpa Freney XT's. Happy with both. It's my 3rd pair of the Asolo's though, I tend to blow the seams with my jam my foot betwen rocks hiking style. Now I'm looking for a simple leather design.
    #4
  5. Zak Smith

    Zak Smith *

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    My wife and I got pairs of the La Sportiva Nepal EVO gtx for back-country skiing (using Silvretta bindings) and they are super comfortable, although a little more expensive at $475. They were about half the price of plastic Telemark boots and we can use these for mountaineering and snowshoeing as well.
    #5
  6. markamazing

    markamazing Long timer

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    I have had several over the years and would prolly go with LaSportiva..
    demo'd a pair one winter day.. walked into longs, did Alexanders, walked out. not even a hot spot! right out of the box.
    they walk well, climb well and last.

    Leather is nice, but sometimes no matter what you do / try for water proofing, it just doesn't last.
    #6
  7. jet123

    jet123 Using all my gears Supporter

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    +1 on fit!

    All those are good choices from a quality/durability point. But if the fit is wrong, it doesn't matter.
    #7
  8. Speedster

    Speedster Gizmo Slut

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    Just like everybody else has said, fit is the most important. With that in mind, make sure you kick with the front of the boot when you try them on. Try to see if your foot slides forward to the toe of the boot. It's going to do that on your way down, and many a "great fitting" boot elsewhere has been unwearable when toes hit the front on the down climb. I usually have problems with that and heel lift when climbing.

    LaSportiva Makalus are my choice for general mtneering. Not insulated, but I'm not doing multi-day winter stuff, so heavy socks have been enough to keep me warm. I would say a semi-rigid crampon is better for most applications, unless you are getting a full winter ice boot.

    If I were getting something insulated, I would look at the LaSportiva Nepal, or that Trango Extreme. Light weight is good! I don't know of their durability, but many times I've been dragging and wished for lighter boots.

    Speedster
    #8
  9. TheDudeAbides

    TheDudeAbides Sarcasm free11/11/10

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    Paging the AntiPaul.

    Paul has spent more time on ice than any of us have spent on motorcycles. Maybe he'll chime in.

    Personally, I was a Lowa loyalist for many years.
    #9
  10. grub

    grub Requires Supervision

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    I have always been a fan of the Asolo boots but just because they fit me best, La Spotiva were always too small for my high volume foot. Fit Fit Fit.
    #10
  11. wetrock

    wetrock McLovin

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    I have a pair of La Sportivas that I really like. I've used them for everything from just hiking with heavy loads (geologist field work.... hike out, fill pack with rocks, hike back), to couloir routes and vertical ice. But, I'm not likely to use them any time soon and have been toying with selling them if you are interested. They have a lot of life left in them. They are around a 9.5.

    I have had a number of pairs of La Sportivas over the years and have been uniformly impressed with the build quality and durability of their footwear. I found Asolos to be a bit mroe comfortable out-of-the-box, but that they just didn't hold up as well.

    The secret to leather boots is staying on top of waterproofing treatments and maintenance.

    Glen
    #11
  12. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Thanks for the offer but I am a 10.5-11!
    #12
  13. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Thanks everyone. Now, just have to find more to try on. I can't try on every pair that I see online, not everyone in Denver carries the models I like. I am impressed with the Lowas, though.

    Asolos were nice but I am on my second or third pair of Asolo hiking boots. The ones I wear everyday are the FSN 95 GTX but the area behind the heal is blowing out. I have a feeling the mtn boots may do the same, or separate at the sole like a different pair did.
    #13
  14. Zak Smith

    Zak Smith *

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    Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder has a pretty good selection.
    #14
  15. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Yep, they're on my list to visit. Maybe try a few more at REI and Bent Gate. Probably will purchase online to save some money once I know what brand/size. The guys at Bent Gate are extremely helpful, by the way.
    #15
  16. RogueClimber

    RogueClimber Been here awhile

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    First my biases

    I worked at Bent Gate Mountaineering in Golden for years
    I have repped for Kayland Boots (and NEMO Tents, De Soto Triathlon, Marin Bikes, Karhu Skis) since leaving the Bent Gate


    As most others have said fit is king. I always recommend to people that pick the category of boot you want and then try on every model you can. Bring a pack full of gear with you and walk around in the store-- for hours if possible (That is how I ended up working at BGM). Then buy the pair that fits best. If you let price come into play you will only set yourself up for pain later.

    I ended up being a tech rep for Kayland as I love their boots. The M11+ is awesome for all around use and fast and light Alpine Assents. I wore my M11s in Patagonia and they performed like champs. I also wear them for pure ice and on some long approaches (think the Bugaboos).

    If I don't plan on having to wear crampons I stay in my approach shoes. Even shuttling 80 pound loads to base camp below Fitzroy I was in approach shoes. You just have to strengthen your feet.

    I have around a dozen years working in the outdoor industry so feel free to ask me any further questions.
    #16
  17. DakarNick

    DakarNick Swabee

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    Thanks Rob, I'll be sure to ask you any more questions I may have!
    #17
  18. skier

    skier genius or insanity?

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    Fit is key, as several posters have pointed out, so your list will shorten as soon as you try some on...your list includes a wide range of fits. I worked for Galibier and Royal Robbins developing the first tele and ice boots in the 70's and have sold or spec'ed boots ever since. The Ouray Ice Festival that started today is the best place to try boots as every major maker has their demo fleets there.

    Re: wearing out the inside heel of your hikers. This nearly always occurs from an unstable foot or other fit issue. Try a superfeet or similar insole to reduce heel wear from pronation.
    #18
  19. markamazing

    markamazing Long timer

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    I think Crocs are coming out with something ?

    (sorry)
    #19
  20. HayDuchessLives

    HayDuchessLives Loquita

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    I spend a lot of time hiking off the beaten path where there are no trails as Alaska has very few developed trail systems. We do a lot of bush-whacking and route-finding through tough geographical conditions, and I LOVE IT. :D I have gone through quite a few pair of boots over the years as I put in a lot of miles. Of course, being a woman, I have to have multiple types of boots to use for different types of hikes and trips. I probably have more boots than I have dress shoes, so I can "talk boots" with you guys! :thumb

    I have sturdy, heavy-duty leather boots I use on backpacking trips with lots of side-hilling, scree fields/rocks or for long trips requiring a heavier pack as I like the rigid sole and ankle support. I wanted some mountaineering boots for winter hikes/climbs and I just purchased some Garmont Towers at a screaming deal. I've only worn them a few times but they fit well and I haven't had any sore spots or blisters yet, so it seems like they will break in fairly quickly. They are crampon compatible and are very minimally insulated, if at all. But, I wore them in 14 to 18-degree temps for several hours with no problems.

    As everyone says, fit is definitely a high priority, along with good tread/sticky soles on the bottom. One new pair of trail runners I bought last summer had really slippery treads, which caused me some grief when I did some interesting ridgeline walking. It's not good to have shoes that like to slide out from under you when you're scrambling up and down rocks and want to depend on your boots to adhere to the rock.

    Overall I have been really happy with the Montrail lightweight boots and trail runners I have used for four summers and highly recommend them. I used trail runners a lot this summer when I trained for a 140-mile wilderness backpack trip and we had to have lightweight shoes that we could use backpacking and for crossing creeks and rivers and wearing in our packrafts. My new Montrails held up quite well to another season of abuse!

    Happy trails! :wave
    #20