Hi Guys I want to replace my chain and lower the gearing for an upcoming trip but I would also like to be able to change back to the stock gearing on the road by swapping the front sprocket. The manual says no standard joining links can be used, does any one run these? Can I easily buy a riveting tool (and use it on the road) to join the links instead of using a normal joining link? Will I need to adjust the chain lenght if I'm just changing the front sprocket one tooth? Thanks
I am running a rivet link now, but I put about 20000 miles on my previous chain using a clip type link, and had no problems. No.
What gearing you have? What gearing you want? I bought a second sprocket carrier and I find it simplier to swap the rear sprocket instead of the front. Anyways, changing the front you'll have to untighten the axle nut and chain adjusters so being there, swapping the sprocket carrier is not much more work.
I have two rear sprockets 42 and 45 , on two carriers, original size chain, all you need to do is rotate the chain adjusters to take up slack etc. No need to split chain
very interesting.......... I have standard 17/42 gearing and just want to go a bit lower for tricky river crossings etc I was going to get a 16t front sprocket and change that as I would of thought it easier.....
16:42 = 2.625 17:45 = 2.647 For reference, 17:42 = 2.471 So 16:42 is pretty much the same as 17:45. Changing the front isn't that bad though, I guess it depends how often you'll be swapping sprockets to make it worth buying a 2nd sprocket carrier.
Cod I have had the same dilemma for a while and still haven't arrived at a suitable solution. I too have 2 rear carriers with the std 42T and 45T sprockets and retain the 17T up front because in theory a bigger front sprocket should last longer. The trouble is that using one chain means that you get 2 options depending on what length you choose, either the 42T set up causes the wheel adjustment to be almost at the limit or the 45T causes the wheel to be too close to the mud flap if you run knobbies (which I always do) and it wears a hole in it. To make it worse the new superseded mud flap (to cure the flap grinding into the swingarm) sits nearly 10mm rearward if its not modified. Using the standard Scorpion type tyres wont cause the above problems because they have a lower profile than a knobbie. For the wide open spaces and big distances that you have up in the Top End, the 17/42 is generally a great combo, but as you know it makes things difficult when the tracks get tricky. Im going to use 2 different length chains next time which will also mean the chain and sprocket wear will be better matched. I will also give the clip style joiner a try, I cant see why they wouldnt be okay. Obviously the cost up front will be substantial BTW I just read your RR which was great. I also did the exact same route solo, 2 years ago and it bought back some great memories. Had the same issues at all the same water crossings.
FWIW: When I originally went to 16/42, I was thinking I would switch back and forth with 17/42, depending on the nature of the trip. What I found was that I preferred the lower ratio for all types of riding. Upon replacement, I went to 17/45 for better wear. That left me the option of switching to 16/45 for really slow conditions. Of course, I haven't yet done that either.
Another 16 / 45 owner here and been running joining link no problems for 7 years , make sure it's on the right way & proper .
All good info there guys! I think I will try 16/42 and might just leave that as the ratio for awhile as alot of ppl seem happy with that.....
I found that switching out my 42 to a 45 (16 stock up front) is much nicer off road but it did magnify the 990 dreaded snatchy throttle response.
