The 650 Dakar Thread

As long as it's fork oil I don't think there would be any difference. Some people have noted that some ATF is around the same weight, but that could damage the seals. That's why it's no longer used for power steering.

Windowto, that kit looks OK but it is the mid sized relay, the better relay to use is the smaller one like BMW use with the base mounting to the machine rather than the relay. By using the same as BMW it provides a spare to use in emergencies and a simple test base for emergency fault finding

These do look good but I don't think they will fit. However, take a look at the parts number of the stock levers for both bikes and see if they match up?

That's a good thought, thank you.

WindowTo, ere are some samples from EBay of what they look like, best to use a 30 amp to match the BMW relay current capability

Micro Relay Base Micro Relay Generic Micro Relay List You need a STD normally open relay, Mount it up near the Solenoid

My Garmin 660 came with a wiring loom so it was easy to install it. Runs directly off the battery, but as far as I recall there's a fuse in there somewhere.

I too let mine stay on all day. Fire it up a few minutes before it's time to leave and bring it in at night. Longest I've had it on while stationary is easily 1,5 hours for food breaks or ferry crossings. Never had any issues with starting afterwards. Also, if you leave it on you just get one continous track instead of many smaller ones. Handy if you'l like to use the track afterwards.

Foolishly sold my Dakar last year, yesterday bought another one which (as my wife accurately points out) is about the same as the one I sold.

Don't go around selling your Dakar, cuz you'll just be back.

It's ok, tho, to sell your center stand -- to me -- if you're tired of it though.

That's a good point, I'm using a regular sized relay. The kind you can find in any auto store, so it's easy to replace when it breaks. I just figured the BMW relays would work forever...

Not so sure about that. If I sell mine and have some extra cash I'll be looking for a Husky Terra, XChallenge, XCountry, or KTM690. All have more power and are lighter.

I have Aqatics foot peg relocation brackets and wrote a few lines here for anyone who's interested:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=23754090

LOL, having more power and being lighter than a F650 Dakar ain't much of a challenge. The virtue of the Dakar is its being able to do everything reasonably well, but nothing especially well, being durable, and reasonably easy to get parts for. When I get in a hurry, my "new" Dakar will get the same treatment that the old one got: namely, a rest.

Can some show a pic of the throttle butterfly in the standard position... When i checked mine at WOT the butterfly was not straight up and down but still slightly closed... Maybe Im in that weak euro mode as well?

Has anyone fitted a Venhill 600A twistgrip to their F650?

Don't have a pic, but if you move the end of the cable betweent he holes it will open full or only 45degrees depending on the hole. It's supposed to close fully (I think) regardless of hole used, so if it doesn't close fully I'd say something is keeping it slightly open and I'd try to find that piece of whatever and remove it.

If you have the low power model you also have a slightly different bracket for the throttle cable to correspond with using the other hole.

The only difference I notice when I moved mine was that the throttle response was faster as it'd open the butterfly twice as fast/ much with the same input.

Almost.
Got a Magura 312 fitted.
What do you want to know?

Im stuck on a long distance trip. About two miles after leaving my hotel my water temp light goes on. I pull over and coolant had spilled out of expansion tank. Temp light also comes on after idling a few minutes. The fan works and radiator looks fairly clean, all hoses are hot after running.

I took off radiator cap and there was a black rubbery like substance on it and in the radiator. What could this be? I ran without cap on to see if coolant was flowing but it started to almost come out of the radiator so I shut it off.

Im going to order some parts tonight. Radiator cap, thermostat, probably water pump too. 30k miles on bike, no work done that I know of on cooling system except fluid changes. Last one was 6months/9k miles ago.

Can I replace the thermostat without draining the coolant?

Any other suggestions welcome. I am looking through the faqs too.

Try this post from Throttlemeister:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=494866&page=58 start at post number #1153. Hope it not the same problem.

Is it worth the effort? I hate the sloppy throttle I have now. I assume you added new switches in the process?


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I'd say it is, I found it very inconvenient to have to reach around the grip all the way to be able to give it full throttle.
Sucks if you'd better have a good grip on the handlebars aka riding through some rough terrain.


I did indeed add new switches, a CEV switchgear from a KTM on the left hand side, not too happy with what I did on the right side, got 2 machined aluminium cases meant for 1 inch handlbars for cheap, see the picture.
The right hand side solution was only meant to be temporary anyways.






Luckily I recently found of those bad boys, this'll replace both, the left hand and right hand switches all at once:



That'll give me plenty of space on the left hand side to mount my roadbook and tripmaster remotes.

Thermostat replacement will require draining of the coolant.

What I would do is drain off the coolant by opening the drain screw at the bottom of the water pump housing. Then take off the housing itself, leave the hoses attached, just unbolt the housing and swing it outwards. Crank over the engine, and check to see if your water pump is rotating properly. You can also try spinning it by hand - it should not spin freely.

If all of that looks good, put the cover back on and change the thermostat in the radiator. Then fill and bleed the system properly.

If the water pump is not rotating, order the shaft, impeller, seals, and _both_ plastic gears that drive it. Throw in a side cover gasket as well, you're in for some surgery.