Husaberg 70 Degree Owners Thread!

I bought the ignition map switch, but took it off. The differences between the three options were not that significant (to me). Others claim its a big deal for them. So, it may be dependent upon your riding style. Cyborg tells me the "Wild" mode really pulls a lot stronger on those massive hillclimbs in the PNW....where he's running 3rd or 4th gear wide open. We don't have such big hills in Okiehoma.

I actually like the Stock setting very much. It feels just right to me everywhere thru the range. But again, I'm pretty picky about my tuning. And I like to get used to the predictability of a certain feel. I'll use the clutch (a lot) as needs vary. Comes from numerous years of Observed Trials riding....I guess. I've always got a finger on my clutch....always. So, whenever I need a power boost, I'll just slip & rev. My old dog habits are hard to re-train.

If somebody wants a brand new map switch at a discount, send me a PM.


As far as the 12-T vs 13-T regarding "wear rate", I don't think its a significant issue. People say that all the time, but it seems mostly speculation. I've run 12's on lots of bikes without any noticeable wear difference thru the life of a chain. Its more an issue of "space to the swingarm. In other words, does the smaller sprocket cause the chain to rub the swingarm more so than the larger sprocket. The Berg appears well designed to accommodate the 12-T, as its not rubbing the guard any more than the other.

I grew up racing minibikes in motocross. We ran an 11 tooth on my highly modified XR75. It never caused any premature chain wear...per se. Never had a problem. And yes, I know the chain size was a bit smaller....proportionally....but same difference in the end. That bike had a 12-T when I got it new.

Your chain is much more likely to wear out due to poor maintenance (lack of or improper cleaning & lubrication), and actual riding conditions (sand vs. pavement) than it ever is to the difference in one tooth count on the drive sprocket.

But do whatever helps you to sleep good at night. This is the most important rule of all (IMO).


Maxxis Dualmax.....interesting. Thanks for the tip!
HF

Rode the Husaberg on a fun full moon ride last night above the city, putting the HID headlight to good use.
I love riding this bike!

What's the maintenance schedule on these bikes? Is it different between the 390, 450, 570? Piston life, valve adjustments, etc in terms of hours.

Thanks

Valve checks and oil changes every 15 hrs. I change my oil every 7.5 hrs and did valve checks every 15 hours for the first 45 hours. Will probably start stretching the valve checks out to 30 hrs now that they are broken in and stable.

Maintenance requirements are the same for all 3 as far as I know. I do know that the 570 runs a good bit hotter than the 450 and 390 in single track. My buddies 570 is spittin when my 450 is runnin fine.

Great pics LR!

Great Pics, Lost Rider!

High Five, do you have the competition Flash on your ecu?

My map switch did very little between the 3 maps until the shop reflashed my bike. Using the map now makes a noticeable difference to the power in race mode and also better fuel consumption in this mode. The bike runs a lot harder and revs smoother up high in this mode.

Yes, I've had it remapped to the 450 competition curve. Very good improvement.

Maybe I should try the ignition map switch again......running the bike much harder. I wasn't really testing the upper rpm range with it before.

HF

Yeah HF, that's the problem you're not running it hard enough.


j/k



Thank you for the comments on the photos, I might not be a super-tech guru on the FE's, but I'll do my best to supply some fun images of the Blue and Yellow Swedish Mistress to the forum.

Hi,

I think this is part of the smog stuff on the bike, attached on the right side of cylinder?



It snapped off during my ride yesterday, opening up this hole and causing the bike to run like crap.



This is the broken part:



I "think" to fix I need to order part number 59030296000, "screw plug," page 18, item 20 of the engine parts list?

Anything else?

Thanks,

Rich

Yeap, that is part of the smog crap...
Check in the bag/boxes that came with your bike.
The fastener to plug the hole should be there...

HF

BTW...all you fellow Berglums.....where is the "DIY Check your Valve Clearance" Thread?

I've logged 25 hours on my 390 and figure it might be time to familiarize myself with said procedure and spec's before I start rooting around in the engine with a stick. How long are you folks going before inspecting your valves. I know what the manual says, but.....

Sent you a pm.

The "other" Berg forum has lots of good info on that.

HF, See post #2051 for my maint intervals.

Here's a link...http://www.husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14416&start=15

Ride Blue!

Thanks guys!

HF

Newbie to the Berg world. Just logged the first few hours on an '11 FE390. Wow. What a machine.

Noticed the bike kind of bags out (loses power under mid/hard throttle) on the short pavement/higher speed run home at the end of the ride. It has done this on 2 separate occasions. Don't know if this is a fuel pump thing or what. Time will tell I suppose.

I would just simply take it back to the dealer to get it sorted, but the Berg dealer is not close by. I was well aware of this fact, but I still just had to go for the blue KTM, even though there's an orange dealer 30 min. away. So here's to hoping i don't have any warranty issues in the next little while. BTW is there a standard Berg warranty (1-month...6 months) for all dealers?

thanks.

I just saw the 60 Minutes report on the European recession last night. Does anyone know how it has been effecting the profits of KTM/Husaberg? Alot of rumblings about KTM doing away with the 70 degree motor. Seems more likely than not now. What will that mean for Husaberg especially since KTM has incorporated the fuel injection into their models.

Husaberg may be aligned as a budget spin off using parts bin bikes, like the new 2t Burgs, with a lower MSRP. Word around is the slanter is dead. Too expensive to recast the sloper as an upgraded engine like the new style 500EXC.

What does that mean? Recast the sloper?

I think the case on the new 500 exc is die-cast versus sand-cast (i.e. thinner walls to reduce weight but with reportedly no strength reduction.)