I picked up a heated jacket liner and glove liners (first gear brand) with a wireless controller and I was wondering if anyone here knows if I install this, I will start having power issues (stator being overloaded, battery can't maintain a charge, roasting wires, etc...) I guess I really should have researched this before I dropped the coin to buy the stuff but I'm silly like that. I only have high beams functioning on my stock headlight so I'm already drawing power in that regard. help?? -Rob
Directly off the battery. Don't run it off the wiring behind the headlight. It should have come with a wiring harness that has two battery terminal loops. Just run that so it exits under the frame by the tank/seat junction. I'm not sure why you've gone all doom&gloom, the LC4 has should be able to run headlight and heated vest, doubly so if you have an electronic temp control. Fix your low beam wiring.
Did you check how many watts those items draw? The 640 puts out about 200 watts at redline so you would be looking at about 180-190 watts at high speed... The headlight, taillight, signals and instruments probably total about 75 W consumption on average and then throw in another 15-25 for the ignition... So to make it easy we'll say that the bike takes 100 W to run.. That leaves about 80-90 Watts to run accessories, like a vest, heated grips or a jacket... If you run a switch to your headlight you can free up another 55 watts while the headlight is off which will bring you free watts up to 130-145... If you end up using more watts than the charging will put out you'll end up draining the battery completely which will also starve the ignition and kill the engine... You can get away with doing this if you use the power consumer for short intervals in turn switching it off for a bit after say 20 minutes, this will allow the battery time to recharge...
My Drz 400 puts out the same output, 200W. I run heated jacket and gloves with a few modifications, the jacket is 70 watts and the gloves another 15. I made the switch to a HID headlight and LED turn and stop signals. I also added a voltmeter to keep tabs on the charging system. I never see the charging voltage drop below 12.5, never. To be on the safe side I still turn everything off when I'm a few miles from my destination. Ron W.
Ok thanks. I had no idea what my bike's electrical capacity was and thought of being stranded with a dead battery doesn't appeal to me. Thanks for the knowledge. -Rob
This... http://signaldynamics.com/index.php...age.tpl&product_id=56&category_id=44&vmcchk=1 is very handy and reliable as it went RTW on my KTM 640a and tell you quite accurately what the state of charge is. I find it reassuring. It is small, I glued it in the center of the dash with some silicone glue. I monitor it constantly when riding and on start up. It does not come wth the floresent background. That said I have a kick starter and only run a heated vest and grips. bill
