Here is my latest DR350........ this one will be known as Doris MK111 as it is the third DR i've owned and they've all been called Doris I bought it two weeks ago and set about stripping it down from front to back to see what needed doing/replacing as it looks like it has had a hard life. It's all done now apart from the rear brake caliper, every fastener on the bike was seized or corroded and I've replaced quite a few parts but it'll ready to hit the trail soon Bob.
I just got home from buying a 1995 DR350SE - it's Easter Sunday AND my wife's birthday. Don't ask me how I pulled that one off - the stars aligned or something. Anyway, pretty nice - used with 7300 miles on it, needs a thorough check out and tune up, etc., of course, and a lower geared counter sprocket, as I intend to use it 70/30 dirt/street and I won't be riding across the country on the thing. Also, since I'm like most guys and can't leave well enough alone, I need a bigger tank and whatever other farkles and mods are appropriate. First order is a shorter kickstand and to bypass the sidestand and clutch safety switches....
Sounds good. Unless its lowered it shouldn't need a shorter kickstand (and if not lowered and it looks like it needs one, you might check suspension sag first, it may not be adjusted properly). The acerbis is the best oversize tank imho - more egronomic shape and has two petcocks included
Were yours the dirt model with the plastic tanks? The metal tanks on the DR350S were clear coated on the tank only. The lower decals on the tank that covered the plastic and the frame covers and the headlight cover were not. But I agree with you about the little too loud comment.
Hey Guys before I pull the trigger.. Forgive me im a noob with the knobs .. tires for the DR I should be good with 120/100/18 r & 80/100/21 f ? kenda trakmaster..
I would use the Trakmaster II rear w/ a different front tire. I have not heard one good thing said about the Kenda front. I would go w/ a Pirelli Scorpion Pro or Pirelli XCMH, both are DOT and work well. One comes in a 90/90/21 and the other in a 80/100/21 size. Either one is fine. I ordered my last set here (they also carry the Trakmaster II rear): http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/29/393/5168/ITEM/Pirelli-Scorpion-Pro-All-Terrain-Enduro-Front-Tire.aspx
hey guys, another DR350 noob here. I picked up a 91 'S model a few months ago with 8,000 miles on it, and have been riding it around for a bit now. It has the FMF Q slip-on pipe, air box mod, and appropriate jetting (stock needle though) and runs great, but has more top end noise than I would expect. It has a very distinct ticking, like a single poorly adjusted valve, but I've adjusted the valves several times, to both ends of the spec, with no change. I know that these motors are typically noisy, and I don't know of any others nearby that I could compare it to, but this one seems noiser than what should be "normal". I'm wondering about a sticky valve, weak valve spring, or maybe the stretched timing chain? Any of you guys had these problems? It appears that the timing chain and guides are pretty worn out too; I was able to pull the cam chain tensioner all the way out, and seat it back against the mount surface with moderate effort. Also, at high rpm's, say over 6K, the engine starts to vibrate a lot more. Is that normal for these bikes, or might that also be a result of the sloppy timing chain? thanks for the suggestions. I'd post a pic of the bike, but it looks just like all the other 91's on here...
It's hard to imagine they would only clear-coat one year. Another 1992 DR350S owner just finished sanding the clear-coat off of his tank so he could remover them. But if yours came off that easy - damn, I wish mine were like that.
A timing chain wouldn't really cause any vibration issues whether it was loose or not. The vibration is more likely due to the particular harmonics of your bar setup than a sudden increase in actual engine vibration. It is not uncommon for bikes to buzz really badly at certain rpms when the frequency reaches some weird harmonoic level with something else. If something were wrong in the motor causing tons of vibs, it would do it at all rpms and probably increase in a fairly gradual fashion with rpm. I rode a honda 919 that at a certain rpm the footpegs would vibrate so bad as to be painful, but I could put my foot on the motor itself and felt no vibs at all... You might also check that the engine mounts and other major bolts/nuts are tight. Both my DR's vibrate more at higher rpms than lower rpms, but its not a sudden incease and the vib level never gets terribly high. good luck
Thanks for the beta again ! I should be woods ready by the weekend.. I couldn't help myself yesterday.. temped the devil & just about sunk my DR in a local mud bath.. Stalled once was about mid case in water on 19 year old stock tires yay baby.. FYI looks like someone is parting out a DR on ebay.. everything is 30 or 40 $ B-I-N.. wheels, exhaust to frame.. Don't know the person..
I just bought a '95 DR350SE this weekend. It has 15/41 ratio sprockets on it. It seems geared a bit high for what I want to do with it, which is to run around in the desert and some forest trails. I will run around town on it some, of course, but I have no plans to tour on the bike. Can anyone recommend a good ratio for what I want to do, and a place to buy the set. The chain is in good shape, so I'd prefer to not replace it at the moment. Anyway to tell what it is? I believe it's a 525 Oring type, but don't know how to tell. Also, I dropped the bike in my driveway tonight (don't ask, it was a "stupid bike tricks for $100 moment), and was wondering if the mirrors available on ebay are any good or should I drop the $60 for one new suzuki mirror. Is there a source for replacement shoulder bolts for the lever pivots? I have removed the cheesy factory plastic guards and intend to install some barkbuster handguards, likely the TuskD-flex, and wondered if someone had more normal shoulder bolts, rather then those with the extra studs. One more question - when the bike is running - when I turn the key off, it keeps running, and I have to use the kill switch on the handlebars. Is this normal? Any advice appreciated. Tom
I just took High-Side's recommendation and bought a set like he has off ebay for $19.95. I haven't received them yet so I can't say about quality. I figure for $20 I won't get too upset if they get banged up! I took a ride into the desert this afternoon...I'm having some fuel issues. I've been through the carb, replaced the float bowl gasket and a few o-rings. She was bogging out on me and I discovered fuel leaking from the air intake side of the carb. I suspect the bowl is over flowing? The needle that shuts off the fuel supply apppeared to be in good condition. Any thoughts?
When stuff like that happens, I check the float height and throw a new needle and seat in it even if it looks okay.
I cant speak for any DR's other than the 2 that I own. I've since replaced the stock 350 tank with a Clarke tank and the '90 came with both the stock tank and an IMS tank. No big deal, as long as they run!
Stock chain size should be a 520. I run 14/49 because in my area there rarely room to stretch the bikes legs. Rocks, roots, steep hills, more rocks and roots. I rarely get the bike out of third gear in the woods but my clutch and clutch hand appreciate it. I have Acerbis Rally hand guards on both my DR's and it's the best investment I've made since I usually drop the bike at least once a day. I still have the stock lever bolts but Honda XL lever bolts should work and they have a shoulder and standard 10mm hex heads I think a 14/43 would suit you well but you may need a new chain to accommodate the size difference which many people say should be replaced when replacing sprockets anyway... I don't buy a new chain every time I swap a sprocket... but hey... that's just me. The bike should shut off with the key so either something has been modified or something aint right
I just ordered a few more o-rings...maybe I should have ordered the needle as well. I have the Clymer manual, and the picture and description of the float height measurment baffles me (measuring frome where to where???!). Does anyone have a better description of what point you measure from?
I just picked up this 94 DR 350 off of Flea Bay. 700 miles - Full Racetech suspension, 435 cc kit, other extras. I am really excited to get it next week. It has a Indiana street legal title so Colorado should be easy! It will make a great single track bike I am thinking.
